BlueOx build

[BillysGruff]

Hopefully the name hasnt been taken already. I've always called my truck that. 2003 Silverado thats been through the wrenches. Its been in two wrecks, neither my fault...so once the trans went, that was the last straw for me. Plans are leaf sprung 52's, 4.88's, 37's/Hummer beadlocks combo from Trailworthfab.com. It will be a dual purpose vehicle. No thrashing till exo, shorten rear, and no bed. On with the pics...

I always liked this pic
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/Facebook/Truck/471860_467015869991655_1214909609_o.jpg

NP241C D-drop
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/Facebook/Truck/457003_484873088205933_161876847_o.jpg

Gear pattern for 9.5
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/coast-1.png
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/drive-1.png

BTF diff cover
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/btfcover.png

Closeup
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/btfcloseupweld.png

Running stock brakes, poor tape measure
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/121128-081534.png

U-bolt flip
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/DSC01750.jpg

Shackle flip
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/shackle_flip2.jpg

1330-1350 conversion u-joint
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130126_093019_zps3dc478de.jpg

9.5 Installed
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20121218_172200_zpscc58c690.jpg

Press brake that is functional, but still needs some work
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/brakePress_zpsf924540e.jpg

Trans parts, piece of .375", 9/16" socket
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/adapterTubeBender_zps0730591f.jpg

Locking collar needs some work
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/dieStrapTubeBender_zps363a12ec.jpg

Start of winch bumper, .375" base plate, .188" brackets holes matching to frame for bolt on, 14* bends on bottom piece, tube is 1.75" .188" wall CREW
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130219_073343_zpsda30fde6.jpg

Got this hunk of **** for 1K locally, man it needs work
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130219_073415_zpsfa06bdf3.jpg

Any body need an HSA?
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130219_073658_zps402bceab.jpg

'78
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130224_111650_zps35fdc659.jpg

Missing a couple lockout pieces on both sides
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130226_070019_zpsc9268947.jpg?t=1361890031

Rear end pic
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20121218_172128_zps00867741.jpg

And a face to match the name, poser shot, stock truck
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/offroad3_zps45780726.jpg

Currently I'm waiting on '89 rotors and new 14x1.5 studs. I'm currently searching for hub parts, have some not local friends with parts, but I'm thinking my best bet is a boneyard. Thats its for now. More to come.

[Jonesy]

Looks like a great start. I would love to have a SAS truck like this.

[twiztedzuki]

histeer arm looks like death trap, **** mud boggers do! id keep bed and dovetail for looks, also it will not stay dual purpose for long so spend wisely so you aint upgrading suspension each year. b a fun trail rig fo sho

[underpowered]

i would have loved to do this to my 03 instead of selling it.

[boomhauer]

?...why do you have a ford front end for a chevy truck unless you are planning to change a lot of stuff.?

[BillysGruff]

histeer arm looks like death trap, **** mud boggers do! id keep bed and dovetail for looks, also it will not stay dual purpose for long so spend wisely so you aint upgrading suspension each year. b a fun trail rig fo sho

I want to shorten wheelbase at that time. Probably wouldnt be street legal then. Plan is to upgrade when it breaks, unfortunately not if, but when. :D

[BillysGruff]

?...why do you have a ford front end for a chevy truck unless you are planning to change a lot of stuff.?

Same reason you have a linked HPD60 front.;)

[BillysGruff]

Looks like a great start. I would love to have a SAS truck like this.

Thanks bud.

[underpowered]

?...why do you have a ford front end for a chevy truck unless you are planning to change a lot of stuff.?

have to change more stuff to use a chevy front end. IFS GM trucks are drivers drop from the factory, where as GM SFA trucks were all passenger drop. Ford axles are drivers drop, so easier to swap to match the stock front output side.

[BillysGruff]

have to change more stuff to use a chevy front end. IFS GM trucks are drivers drop from the factory, where as GM SFA trucks were all passenger drop. Ford axles are drivers drop, so easier to swap to match the stock front output side.

I figured I'd see you on here sooner than later.:thumbup: I also swapped in the NP241 and floor shifter, which is pretty much the same as any Heep NP231. I'm looking for a 205/208 flange so I can run a 1350CV d-shaft. Bessler had a Red 73-87K10 that I was going to steal the flange and rear springs from. I couldnt get the flange off without battery powered impact, so I had to come back. When I did, it was gone. I just remembered Jacks, which is about 5 min from my house, they have all kinds of fun stuff!

[BIGRAM]

Exo it quick!! Yota drivers depend on us full-size rigs to widen the trails,,

[BillysGruff]

Exo it quick!! Yota drivers depend on us full-size rigs to widen the trails,,

Ha! Just checked out some pics of your rig. Looks like it does great! That's good to know there are other FS rigs for the squirrely 'Yotas. It'll all come soon enough.

[93 Krawler]

I'm looking for a 205/208 flange so I can run a 1350CV d-shaft.

When I first did my SAS, I had a cv shaft made to fit the stock 241 flange. I killed the cv first trip to Harlan, so I improvised. I bought a 1350 205 u-bolt style yoke, took the stock 241 flange and cut the end off so the 241 and 205 were the same length as the stock 241 yoke. After some grinding, it got better angles than the original CV did. I also had to notch the cross member so the shaft didn't hit it as the front end drops out. I'm sure I could have had a high dollar cv shaft made, but this way cheaper. The joints do wear more than usual because of the steeper angle, so I use the Moog 231 super joint that has a lifetime warranty from most parts stores. Advance seems to have the most stores, so I use them. Good luck with your build.

[BillysGruff]

When I first did my SAS, I had a cv shaft made to fit the stock 241 flange. I killed the cv first trip to Harlan, so I improvised. I bought a 1350 205 u-bolt style yoke, took the stock 241 flange and cut the end off so the 241 and 205 were the same length as the stock 241 yoke. After some grinding, it got better angles than the original CV did. I also had to notch the cross member so the shaft didn't hit it as the front end drops out. I'm sure I could have had a high dollar cv shaft made, but this way cheaper. The joints do wear more than usual because of the steeper angle, so I use the Moog 231 super joint that has a lifetime warranty from most parts stores. Advance seems to have the most stores, so I use them. Good luck with your build.

Some good tech right there. :shake: I've been clued in from some other friends that a newer 2500/3500 Dodge front d-shaft is 1350 from the factory, so if I can source one of those and the 205/208 flange, and grind for some more clearance, I'll be GTG.

[BillysGruff]

When I first did my SAS Do you have a link for a build thread? Or an image placeholder? I'm currently working on the brackets. I'll be buying more tube and springs next month.

http://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/22-553.htm

[93 Krawler]

Do you have a link for a build thread? Or an image placeholder? I'm currently working on the brackets. I'll be buying more tube and springs next month.

http://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/22-553.htm

I have a lot of pics, but no build thread. I wasn't a member of the forum when I did it. I'll post some up. I built 2 different styles of shackle for the front. Steering was the biggest issue I had. When you get in to it you'll see the draglink angle is bad, so it won't steer good at all. I even tapped my box for hydraulic assist, but it still didn't want to turn the 39.5's very good. I had to go full hydro.

I used a 4" lift 52" rear spring in the front, and the stock 63" with a 2" add a leaf, 4" blocks, shackle flip, and a 6" shackle. The allowed me to barely clear 39.5" tires in the front. Even after trimming/pounding the fender/firewall, they still rubbed the outer lugs on the tires at full stuff. Only after I tubed the front and aced the fenders did it stop rubbing. I kept the 117" wheelbase, but had I moved the axle up an inch, that should have fixed the rubbing.

[BillysGruff]

A couple questions:

1. Does anybody have any Spicer D60 parts laying around that they dont need? As you can see I'm missing some. I tried Bessler and Jacks, but without luck.

2. Does anyone work for a machine shop or know someone who could bore out the opening on my D44 caliper brackets to fit the D60? Everything but the center bore on the brackets is the same. I've tried calling around with 0 luck.

And some fun...
The base idea
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130302_080233_zpscb1ccbb3.jpg

Coming along, I've since rounded those sharp corners on the ears and drilled holes for rosette welding, I'll also do two horizontal gussets between the ears and vertical gussets.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130307_070907_zpsb3738cbb.jpg

Shackle
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130302_080518_zps0a5b25bc.jpg

[biggin69]

94dodgetruggy may be able to assist you with the machine work. I have heard that he does this type stuff...??? :D

[93 Krawler]

This was the first design, but it allowed the body to move when I tried to steer. So I had to do it a little different and go hydro.

6528

And the second design, which is on it now.

6529

[93 Krawler]

Few more pics of the front.
6530
6531



Then I got tired of the front and started cutting.
6532
6533

[BIGRAM]

WOW, what happened? Looks awesome!

[BillysGruff]

94dodgetruggy may be able to assist you with the machine work. I have heard that he does this type stuff...??? :D

I'm confused, are you sayin JohnnyDodgeTruggy is Gram or somebody else? I searched for the username you provided, but didnt exist.

This was the first design, but it allowed the body to move when I tried to steer. So I had to do it a little different and go hydro.

6528

Its amazing how 3" difference b/t GMT800/900 on the inside of the frame rails makes for mounting the shackle location.


6533 Holy sexy flexy, Batman! Except, where's night vision?

[biggin69]

94Dodge Truggy

[93 Krawler]

I'm confused, are you sayin JohnnyDodgeTruggy is Gram or somebody else? I searched for the username you provided, but didnt exist.

Holy sexy flexy, Batman! Except, where's night vision?

His profile link. http://www.cincyoffroad.com/forum/member.php?u=26

It has 4 - 27 watt LED lights on it now.

[BillysGruff]

Exhibit A contains a 2 x 3 x 1/4" wall soon to be x-member, two (2) 1.75 x 3/16" upper bumper pieces for under the headlights and front part of fender w/50* bends @14.5". I need to cut off 18" from the ends. I have a fourth piece that I'll sleeve on both ends.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130324_162736_zps970fce83.jpg?t=1364161026

It just so happends that a d-side D44 axle shaft is ~1.375" and fits very well inside 1.75" tube to be used as sleeves.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130324_162750_zpsf223ea63.jpg?t=1364161033

An example of using part of the axle shaft as a sleeve. I'll drill and plug weld later. I should have done this from the get go, ah well.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130324_162820_zpsbb0f30fb.jpg?t=1364161064

Got one at a time cause it saved me 20 bucks. *Important question* Do I need to have two locking sleeves for springs? I wonder why they would only include one? There isnt a hole on the backside for a rivet either.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130324_162802_zps51e43e74.jpg?t=1364161056

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130324_162841_zps150546c0.jpg?t=1364161071

1/2" spring plate I made....jk Barnes deserves all the credit on their fantastic products
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130324_162902_zps584edfd9.jpg?t=1364162241

Bought new shackles instead of using the ones I made, 9/16" bolts/nuts/washers acquired
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130324_162907_zps16421872.jpg?t=1364162340

All cleaned up, need prime and paint
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130324_162929_zps1c4fc5ec.jpg?t=1364161085

Ebay 99.99 special. I dont need any o-ring seals with these, do I?
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130324_162945_zps4bef9b22.jpg?t=1364162449

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130324_162957_zps54deeee9.jpg?t=1364161105

39/64" drilled, all cleaned up and ready for pressing. I'd have these finished but I didnt get the right seals from Rockauto.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130324_163038_zps20d983b7.jpg?t=1364161110

Improved the locking collar, those two pieces are welded togther.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130324_163405_zps1bb20482.jpg?t=1364161134

Gettin there. Going to gusset the ears and vertical gusset for added strength. The drill bit dulled as I was drilling these out.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130324_163455_zpsd77dd5a7.jpg?t=1364161143

[BillysGruff]

WOW, what happened? Looks awesome!

Were you asking me or the boss-man?

[BIGRAM]

That was for you, the truck went from street to hard C.O.R.E. in a flash!
Where is that majic dust at?

[BIGRAM]

Correction, it appears to be the wrong truck. Just noticed Krawler's sig pic..
Need updates,,,,

[BillysGruff]

Correction, it appears to be the wrong truck. Just noticed Krawler's sig pic..
Need updates,,,,

All good, not many can touch the badassness of his rig.

[BillysGruff]

Are these worth it?
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/product_images/k/dana_60s__90210.jpg

[twiztedzuki]

longfield has great rep. so i sure they are, and they cheaper then superjoints or nitros. they redid them also so only got 1 fitting instead 4 to grease.

[93 Krawler]

That was for you, the truck went from street to hard C.O.R.E. in a flash!
Where is that majic dust at?

I wish I would have had some magic dust. I started my rig in 2008 and finally got it the way I want it last summer. I couldn't get the front exo to look right around the stock fenders, so I left it off for a few years. Last summer I decided the only way to make it look right was to cut the front end off and tube it. Sure is easier to work on the engine now.

Are these worth it?
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/product_images/k/dana_60s__90210.jpg

I have stock Dana joints in mine and have yet to break one. If I were to break one, I would probably go to a better joint.

[BillysGruff]

Well, I met up with Scott and Rob, and they are some good dudes. The red Jeep is badass too. Scott said the caliper brackets are done! Cant wait to pick them up. Instead of opening the bore on the bracket, he decided it would be better to turn down the spindle such that it'll fit nice'n'snug into the caliper bracket. So :beers: for those guys.

I do have a question though...
Is this the right PN for a Detroit? 225SL29A
I'm getting pretty close to finishing the bumper. After many grinding and checking attempts, I was finally able to get all the tubes to fit. They are currently just tack'd together. I need to add the inner 'webbing' pieces, so that'll be another 500x grind/check session. I'm sure using a hole saw+vise is easier, but this is the first time for me, so, so be it.

Also, parts are rollin' in, hooray for tax time. I'm waiting on Ruffstuff heims. Next to purchase is a master rebuild kit from a friend in C-bus, gears, and the Detroit. 4wd factory has an April sale going on now too. I could get that thing for cheap right now. Well cheap in the 'offroad' world.

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130419_063000_zpsa610070c.jpg

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130419_062906_zpsa3cc80bf.jpg

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130419_060530_zps3b8ad237.jpg?t=1366370258

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130419_060449_zps81034d55.jpg

[BillysGruff]

Bumper progress
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130421_185132_zps5ac0a529.jpg?t=1366586408

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130421_185239_zpseabf4ddc.jpg?t=1366586445

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130421_185256_zps60979f0c.jpg?t=1366586430

[BillysGruff]

Still alotta work left on the bumper, grinding, flapping, strengthening, and on and on...

Here's what Scott and Rob did for me. I'm freakin stoked!
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130424_073312_zps6abbf3e3.jpg?t=1366804028

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130424_073248_zps5b73fc4d.jpg?t=1366804010

They fit great!

[BillysGruff]

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130425_075007_zps9e21444b.jpg?t=1366891150

I've read that the best way to remove the lower cap is to get it to rotate about the knuckle, and then punch it down.

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/onedoesnot_zps26a7f5c8.jpg?t=1366860130

Issuck, as the daughter would say. (It's stuck.)

[93 Krawler]

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130425_075007_zps9e21444b.jpg?t=1366891150

I've read that the best way to remove the lower cap is to get it to rotate about the knuckle, and then punch it down.

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/onedoesnot_zps26a7f5c8.jpg?t=1366860130

Issuck, as the daughter would say. (It's stuck.)

I'm getting ready to change my knuckles. I'd say the lower caps have been on there for 34 years. :sweatin:

[BillysGruff]

I read that, did something break? Its crazy to think I'm working on something thats 2 years older than I.

[93 Krawler]

I developed a crack on the driver knuckle in Harlan. Time to upgrade.

Sent from my Radar 4G using Board Express

[93 Krawler]

I've read that the best way to remove the lower cap is to get it to rotate about the knuckle, and then punch it down.

Since I was replacing all the lower pieces, I used a punch from the top and pushed it out. One side came out 3rd hit, the other side sucked bad. I used anti seize to make sure they come out next time.

[BillysGruff]

Since I was replacing all the lower pieces, I used a punch from the top and pushed it out. One side came out 3rd hit, the other side sucked bad. I used anti seize to make sure they come out next time.

Good to know. I got mine out the day after I posted that pic. I had to hit it from the top, rotate it, and from the sides. The bearing race was easier to get out, IMO.

I'm moving along with suspension parts, and need to take some pics.

[BillysGruff]

Suspension bracketry coming along, only have holes drilled on one side of four from where the shackle will hang. Bits dulled on me.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130513_195719_zps3255961f.jpg

ARP studs that I thought I was supposed to get as a packaged deal from a guy on PBB for the HSA's, but ah well. Also got a Detroit from a good dude here in town. He said the bearings are fairly new, they look good to me so I'm going to run 'em. My guess it that he's a member on here, but I didnt ask for some reason. Said he has a tube buggy and a '79 HPD60 that he switched out for a spool. For $300, its a win for me! I Also have G2 4.88 gears coming, and a good friend in C-bus has a master install kit for me.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130513_195343_zps13f9f879.jpg

Also, really good bumper progress. I got all the ends capped, fixed the d-side stickingouttoofar issue, and created two gussets on either side (if you will). Next for this is to make the roller fair lead plate and weld that on, then 60 grit flap wheel and paint.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130503_211909_zps150402f3.jpg

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130503_211852_zpsa23acc63.jpg

[BillysGruff]

...

[BillysGruff]

Just a small update...

I gave myself 2" of overhang with the front x-member and the frame rails. I'm going to weld some vertical pieces such that they sit flush against outside of the frame rails and on the top of the x-member. I'll then drill holes through these plates and rosette weld them on, plus gusset between the x-member and new plate. And I need to get longer hanger and shackles bolts.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130530_194346_zps1b01fc3b.jpg

[BillysGruff]

Got the gears going. Check out these patterns and stats and let me know what you guys think. These are 4.88's.

RGS: .056
NRGS: .043
BL: .004, I'll loosen them up a bit, but how much shim should I take out of RGS and add to NRGS?
OP: .046 w/~20in/lbs
IP: .007 over existing; .015" over existing yields the drive side pattern towards the toe, centered root to flank, and coast side as a centered half moon, meaning it was too much shim. I'll try .012" over next time.

Coast:
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130809_054736_zpsfdb4d652.jpg?t=1376042415

Drive:
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130809_054622_zps9a667ba7.jpg?t=1376042427

Drive, the last one appears almost rhombus like in shape:
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130809_054545_zps86ccbece.jpg?t=1376042439

[BillysGruff]

I think BL is better now. It was in b/t .006 and .007 every place I took a reading. I used BillaVista's method that for every .010" carrier shim change there is .007" BL change, so I settled on .005" shim movement to the NRGS to try get me .0035" more BL.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130810_060607_zpsfe909c01.jpg?t=1376130989

Drive side, how do I get rid of the rhombus shape?
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130810_061044_zps08395320.jpg?t=1376130987

Coast side:
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130810_061124_zpscb300a83.jpg?t=1376130983

[BillysGruff]

Relief cut in the shoulder, as you all can see they are badly pitted.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130818_133459_zpsec493099.jpg?t=1376871166

New bearings pressed on to carrier and pinion
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130818_133430_zpsd9cfdd84.jpg?t=1376871173

Finally got the housing damn near completely clean
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/26e17e38-6e4d-4c65-ab15-3410a56b03b1_zpsd5b2ac8f.jpg?t=1376873005

First successful drill and tap, that bit that comes with the set is so much sharper than anything I've ever seen
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130818_114503_zpsce213771.jpg?t=1376871194

Uuuuuuppppdate time

Old kingpins have been removed, slapped down some 250* paint after cleaning
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130825_084813_zpsf014c922.jpg?t=1377436802

Moose knuckle
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130825_084838_zps53a81b94.jpg?t=1377436792

Carnage for Kyle
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20130825_084932_zps12620fa5.jpg?t=1377436774

[93 Krawler]

Looks good.

Hope you have better luck than I did with those conical bolts for the caliper. Mine kept letting the parts fall out. I ended up using a regular bolt instead and tacking a small washer to the bracket. Havn't lost any parts since then.

[BillysGruff]

Thanks man. It's getting there. I've read that about those bolts. One guy suggested using allen head bolts so they dont stick out as far and its hard to overtorque them. Next I need to get the housing secured down somehow, make up an extension, and torque down the kingpins.:sweatin:

[BillysGruff]

A small update, actually been working like crazy on this thing. BTF diff cover welded, spring clamps made, made new shackles, modified the hangers for better clearance, hubs all assembled, springs painted/removed overload, brakes installed..
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20131013_095200_zps73773529.jpg

Then this happened...I think I welded it too hot and warped the bung
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20131017_053420_zps43e49147.jpg

Also working on some double shear steering
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20131127_114303_zps32a8f4d1.jpg

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20131127_114428_zpseb358e52.jpg

[BillysGruff]

Just bought this from Besslers, and I learned that stock GMT800 front calipers are the same as the rears on the newer 14 bolts.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/0b973731-cbe4-44f6-b1fd-23615cfcd5fe_zps2cd01dea.jpg?t=1388430657

I'm going to be getting the BFGoodrich H1's soon and am going to make some recentered H1 wheels. I'm also switching up the front hangers to a WFO shackle/bushing hanger setup. I decided its going to be better to mock everything up with all parts under the vehicle rather than fully welding w/o officially knowing its going to work. I also changed my mind about the brackets in that I'm going to bolt them on rather than weld. Dont want to stress the frame at the heaviest part of the whole vehicle. CoG on my truck is the upper bellhousing bolt.

[BillysGruff]

Update time.
Got the front end sitting on the tires, so much work. Does anyone have a bender w/1.5" die? I need to finish up with the drag-link, weld on the double-shear brackets for the HSA's, flip it around in the driveway, toss in the 10.5, build/get front d-shaft, and then it'll at least be driveable. I still want to do a panhard, and even farther downthe road I'm going to build sliders and a rear bumper.

Double-shear XJ pitman arm
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140602_071043_zpsnoof9j1t.jpg

Shackle angle
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140529_121527_zps255daca7.jpg

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140529_121509_zpsb32085ee.jpg

Centerline is about 3" forward
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140529_121449_zps086302d7.jpg

[dropitlow88]

[QUOTE=BillysGruff;80726]Update time.
Got the front end sitting on the tires, so much work. Does anyone have a bender w/1.5" die? I need to finish up with the drag-link, weld on the double-shear brackets for the HSA's, flip it around in the driveway, toss in the 10.5, build/get front d-shaft, and then it'll at least be driveable. I still want to do a panhard, and even farther downthe road I'm going to build sliders and a rear bumper.

I have a bender with a 1.5" die, in Elsmere KY

[BillysGruff]

Well that figures, as soon as I cut it to length and weld in the bungs, a nice fella chimes in. Ah well. Heres some pics for your viewing displeasure

I was able to keep stock brake lines as they are pretty much the same size as the stock Ford caliper brake line bolts. 10mm vs 3/8". Im also excited I wont have to move the steering box.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140607_081734_zpsnoebimgr.jpg

A question I was dying to have answered...Do GMT800 1500 stock front calipers fit on the rear of GMT800 10.5" FF? Yes they do, and this saved me about $200.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/PIC_0063_zps8fddc7dc.jpg

02 AAM complete with Detroit, 4.88's, diff kit, Undercover Fapworks diff cover, Chassis Unlimited pinion guard, stock front brakes, and freshy fresh paint that no one cares about
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/PIC_0065_zps9f1db0b1.jpg

[biggin69]

Looks good but I do have a question....


Is that a skinned chicken sitting on a five gallon bucket? :eek:

[BillysGruff]

:laughing:

It most definitely is, thats hilarious. I didnt even notice that.

No, its the packaging material that Andy from TWF uses to ship H1 wheel parts. Its stained white because it was used to soak up brake fluid. I've used that material to ship stuff that I've sold and as rags cause theres a **** ton of it. Its interesting that he chose pink as the color.

[BillysGruff]

Brakes bled and torqued, ebrakes connected, u-bolts torqued, cleaned, and painted, shock mounts welded/painted, spacers torqued, new shackles for rear, diff cover all sealed up, oil in, dshaft connected and sorta driveable. I'm finishing up the front brackets to allow for a couple more bolt holes, then I'll remove everything, paint, and reinstall. Then its on to shock mounts and frame plate for the front....

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140625_083718_zpse40011c8.jpg

Distance view
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/Mobile%20Uploads/20140620_074519_zps5xpopgfc.jpg

[WrenchMonkey]

Oh, nice!

Come do my Burban...

[BillysGruff]

Thanks man. Getchu a front axle and I'm there!

[BillysGruff]

Bomp!
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140715_212618_zps16e9f251.jpg

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140715_212539_zps72f9d4c4.jpg

RTI yard ramp
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140715_212149_zpsbccd9be2.jpg

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140715_212011_zpsfd8d06e8.jpg

Exhaust is now welded and painted with 2000° header paint I did learn that I didnt have to lap back into the puddle because it would just cause burn through. Too bad I waited to one of the last welds to learn that.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140806_074742_zps1533fd56.jpg

Probably 1/8" clearance b/t hanger and p-side pipe, still need to put trans heat guard back on
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140806_074857_zps2946bdb0.jpg

Pretty good clearance here, stupid rusty rockers
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140806_075027_zpsb8336419.jpg

For some reason it no longer rests on the trans xmember, not sure how that worked out, but I like it
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140806_075240_zpsef592874.jpg

Bushing is tweaked all to ****, but meh
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140806_075407_zpsf630b598.jpg

Reinstalls fender well covers BUILD THREAD
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140806_075505_zpsaed3d016.jpg

Made a cutout of the xmember w/33° angles and welded in some 3/16" plate
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140806_081704_zps44ba7b2e.jpg

Ordered 4 of these....hopefully they come in Skywalker Glowing Blue
https://www.roguefab.com/inventory_images/39.jpg

I'm going to get some of the air soft pellets from Wally world to balance the H1's. I get up to about 35mph and then the steering wheel starts to wobble. I'm curious, though...The wheels have balancing media already on the insides, little square looking things. Should I remove those or just leave em be, and add the pellets? It drives kinda funny if the road is angled either way. It will pull to that side. Does that mean camber is off? Oh yeah, I finally measured my caster and its at 7°.

[93 Krawler]

I'm going to get some of the air soft pellets from Wally world to balance the H1's. I get up to about 35mph and then the steering wheel starts to wobble. I'm curious, though...The wheels have balancing media already on the insides, little square looking things. Should I remove those or just leave em be, and add the pellets? It drives kinda funny if the road is angled either way. It will pull to that side. Does that mean camber is off? Oh yeah, I finally measured my caster and its at 7°.

I used air soft pellets in my 39.5 TSL's and it didn't help. Death wobble was horrible, so I went full hydraulic steering. Problem solved.

[BillysGruff]

I used air soft pellets in my 39.5 TSL's and it didn't help. Death wobble was horrible, so I went full hydraulic steering. Problem solved.

I'm planning on doing hydro-assist at least. I've seen a couple people's writeups on where to drill the box and how to run the lines. Doesnt look too terribly difficult, its just expensive. Was your full hydro pre-fender chopping? Asking because I was under the impression full hydro isnt street legal. I wish I had money for a tow rig. :/

[BillysGruff]

Hey Gents, been a while. I got the tires all setup with PVC inserts from Andy @TWF, and got the air soft pellets from Wally World. It definitely doesnt shake as much

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20140819_114500_zpsdf4034af.jpg

But then, I'm working on hydro-assist and its not working for me.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/IMG_20141009_192028_zpsd750a2cc.jpg

Drilled and tap'd the box
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/2014-10-29%2010.22.31_zps0qwj7e8n.jpg

Getting brackets tack'd in place
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20141015_1201451_zpse9108b71.jpg

Supposedly I had everything correct.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20141111_083551_zpsqqmyj4op.jpg

Faaacccckkkk. I'm trying to bleed the system and no fluid gets down to the ram. It doesnt move at all because of this. There isnt any fluid going to the 90° adapter. The only seal I had to replace was the one on the back end of the piston. It was a 'square' ring seal over top of a rubber o-ring. I did have some blockage coming in the pressure line so I blew it out with the air compressor. When I removed the pressure line the second time to check for problems, there wasnt any fluid dripping out of it, even though the resevoir had plenty. Anybody want to come help me diagnose, I'm stumped? I would provide beer.
http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20141115_172551_zpsd0bpk2kx.jpg

[93 Krawler]

Do the the tires move at all? If no, then you might have done something wrong putting it back together.
When I tried hydro assist on mine it didn't help. The angle of the drag link made it so it couldn't push very good. That's why I went to full hydro. My box was different than yours. I tapped it differently too.

[Ky Mudhunter]

Based on your mockup in this pic I think you have the hoses switched on the ram. The box is trying to go left while the ram is trying to right.

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20141111_083551_zpsqqmyj4op.jpg

[BillysGruff]

Do the the tires move at all? If no, then you might have done something wrong putting it back together.
When I tried hydro assist on mine it didn't help. The angle of the drag link made it so it couldn't push very good. That's why I went to full hydro. My box was different than yours. I tapped it differently too.

The tires dont turn at all when its on the ground and started up, even while moving.

Based on your mockup in this pic I think you have the hoses switched on the ram. The box is trying to go left while the ram is trying to right.


Thanks for confirming this. Someone else pointed that out as well. I wish that was the simple answer. Do you guys think its the box or the pump? I was told that fluid usually makes it's way down to the ram even if the pump isnt working.

[Ky Mudhunter]

Did you bleed the system? If not, jack the front end up. Then turn the wheels back and forth from lock to lock with the engine off. Keep checking the fluid level and keep it full. This may take a while because of the extra volume of the assist cylinder you need fill.

Make sure you go ahead and switch the hoses because it probably will not bleed the air out of the cylinder with them backwards.

[BillysGruff]

Unfortunately, I did all those things and still nothing. I guess I'll take apart the box and see. :(

[blazerbrad]

If there is no fluid coming out of one of the ports you drilled and tapped on the steering box, then there is something wrong. Either the box has some internal issue or it was drilled in the wrong spot. Mine is drilled and tapped the same way showed by 93 Krawler but also a different style box. Just to clarify:

- If you jack the front wheels off the ground they won't turn side to side at all?
- Is this with the ram installed? If the hoses are backwards the ram is fighting the steering box. If the ram is not installed (just hanging) and the wheels won't turn then look at the box.
- If you disconnect the steering box from the pitman arm or drag link, can you turn it?

For bleeding I had to have the ram connected so when I turned the steering wheel it forced it in and out. Tried with it just hanging and it wouldn't bleed without forcing the cylinder to move some other way. I've also never had any luck bleeding mine (hydro assist and hydro boost) with the engine off. It will just burp fluid out the remote reservoir forever, or at least until my forearms can't take it anymore and it is never bled. I just fill up the reservoir, start the engine, and turn the wheels lock to lock once or twice. Refill the reservoir and do it over a couple times. Once the reservoir level stays fairly constant I will start it up and turn lock to lock many times. Oh, if hydro boost brakes you need to pump the brakes several times after you turn the motor off each time. There is an accumulator in the brake system (so you still have some power brakes if the engine dies) that you need to release the pressure in order to get it to bleed.

[BillysGruff]

- If you jack the front wheels off the ground they won't turn side to side at all?
- Is this with the ram installed? If the hoses are backwards the ram is fighting the steering box. If the ram is not installed (just hanging) and the wheels won't turn then look at the box.
- If you disconnect the steering box from the pitman arm or drag link, can you turn it?


1. The wheels turn fine right now that its on jackstands. There is 0 power steering while running and attempting to turn with the wheels on the ground.
2. Yeah, tried bleeding with everything connected, even started the motor and did lock-lock a bunch.
3. Steering box turns fine with everything connected and on jackstands. Its gotta be fluid flow not assisting.

I'm confused as to why theres no fluid going to the box. Its the first stop for fluid after the pump. Also, I think only the HD's got the hydro brakes.

[BillysGruff]

I just fill up the reservoir, start the engine, and turn the wheels lock to lock once or twice. Refill the reservoir and do it over a couple times. Once the reservoir level stays fairly constant I will start it up and turn lock to lock many times. Oh, if hydro boost brakes you need to pump the brakes several times after you turn the motor off each time. There is an accumulator in the brake system (so you still have some power brakes if the engine dies) that you need to release the pressure in order to get it to bleed.

Dude, you are the man. This helped me so much. You helped me remember that these things arent Sally Prius', Saturn Ion's, or 4cyl Escapes. You have to give it that extra umph to get it go. Thats exactly what I did. I gave it gas while turning and did hit the brakes a couple times after I turned it off. Its so easy to turn the steering wheel now with the truck running. I can do it with one finger. The lines I ran did have to be flipped, so thanks for that. Also, I didnt mention that I drilled the pressure line fitting in the pump to 5/32".

[BillysGruff]

Ok, I finally did it right. I bought some Loctite hydraulic sealant and wrapped the fittings about 10 times with tape. I was able to bleed and drive it around and it doesnt leak! I also bought the plastic line separators. I plan to make either a small tab or maybe even a small skid plate to protect the hydro lines. i also cranked on the pressure fitting at the pump because it was leaking, too.

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20141208_110824_zpsf7qhow96.jpg

Also just ordered a NP208/205/241 flange and seals to swap onto the 241. I went to Jacks down on Kellogg to look for one. He said I'd have to buy the whole tcase for $100. I said I dont need all that, he says $50 for the flange. The one from Ebay was $45 w/free shipping. Ill take that over getting dirty, cussing, bloody knuckles/fingers.

I'm gonna head down to Jacks today to see if he has any HD Dodges. I hear the front driveshafts are a 1350 CV and the flange mates up well with the 205/208/241 flanges. I plan to cut it to length and sleeve it/rosettes/plugs. I'll call Besslers too, they're my favorite.

[Ky Mudhunter]

Glad you got it all working. I really like your build. Don't see as many fullsize builds around here.

One question (and I'm not flaming you): how come you mounted the hydro assist cylinder below the tie rod? I have mine mounted behind the tie rod directly above the axle tube. I did this because it keeps the cylinder a little more protected and takes full advantage of the hi-steer. Based on the pictures it looks like you could have done the same but maybe there is something I can't see in your pics that would not allow mounting it like I did. Below are some pics of my setup for reference (1 of my initial CAD design and 2 of it finished).

[BillysGruff]

Ah yes, I see where you're coming from. That looks like a good setup to me. Thanks for the compliments. The only difference we have is that your DL is in front of the TR, whereas mine is behind the TR. Things might get crunchy if I bumped the pass side. This allowed me to not have to move the steering box forward. I get a decent turning radius. The other thing in the back of mind the whole time was that I didnt want the lines running up and around tubing. I wanted to keep everything ahead and out of the way of the TR and DL.

Question for you though...Did adding the panhard help much? I've got decent body roll, and hear that helps. I can see it even when I'm getting in it, and can see the reflection in the office building windows. These 52's are definitely flexy. Do you keep it connected while wheelin and dealin? I'm debating whether I want to add one or not. If you still have the CAD of brackets for it, could you tell me the specs that worked for you? My DL is about 7°, and yours looks to be about the same.

[Ky Mudhunter]

Ok. I thougt there might be a reason you mounted it like you did.

The panhard bar did not help with the body roll much but it did make the steering feel a lot tighter, especially on curvy roads where you are steering back and forth. I do take it off when wheelin' because it makes the suspension bind when it flexes.

Yes I still have the CAD files of my brackets. My draglink is at about 8 degrees and my axle is D44 so they may not fit perfectly on the D60. I think the only difference is that the axle bracket may need to be a little taller. Do you have any software to view CAD files? If so, what software is it?

[Ky Mudhunter]

I have a panhard bar (track bar) and no sway bar on mine. Why shouldn't it be on a leaf spring vehicle? All factory leaf sprung trucks that I know of had a track bar if they were setup with a side to side steering linkage (mostly Fords). The Chevy and Dodge trucks that had the front-back type steering linkage did not use a track bar since there was no side loading from the steering.

[BillysGruff]

Sounds like your thinking of adding a swaybar. I'd consider a Currie Antirock or another brands similar model. They're expensive though. A panhard rod is just a link used to center the axle to the vehicle.

I'm not a fan. I considered modifying my stock one, but then realized its not really necessary.

Ok. I thougt there might be a reason you mounted it like you did.

The panhard bar did not help with the body roll much but it did make the steering feel a lot tighter, especially on curvy roads where you are steering back and forth. I do take it off when wheelin' because it makes the suspension bind when it flexes.

Yes I still have the CAD files of my brackets. My draglink is at about 8 degrees and my axle is D44 so they may not fit perfectly on the D60. I think the only difference is that the axle bracket may need to be a little taller. Do you have any software to view CAD files? If so, what software is it?

Ok, good to know it helped with curvy roads. I notice it most when on my these types of roads. There's a ton in b/t my house and the river, and the truck gets squirrely sometimes. And I dont need to see the files, was just curious what your measurements were, just to get a baseline. I dont want the axle bracket to be too tall and slamming into things when pass side is fully bumped.
I have a panhard bar (track bar) and no sway bar on mine. Why shouldn't it be on a leaf spring vehicle? All factory leaf sprung trucks that I know of had a track bar if they were setup with a side to side steering linkage (mostly Fords). The Chevy and Dodge trucks that had the front-back type steering linkage did not use a track bar since there was no side loading from the steering.
:thinking:

[Ky Mudhunter]

For strictly off road the track bar is not needed. I only added it to mine for the street since it was my daily driver back when I first built it. It definitely makes the street handling better. I still drive the truck to work sometimes so I just take the track bar on and off as needed.

[BillysGruff]

For strictly off road the track bar is not needed. I only added it to mine for the street since it was my daily driver back when I first built it. It definitely makes the street handling better. I still drive the truck to work sometimes so I just take the track bar on and off as needed.

So how 'bout those measurements....:thumbup:

[Ky Mudhunter]

What measurements are you wanting to compare? Let me know and I'll try to get them for you tonight once I get the kids to sleep.

[BillysGruff]

I was looking for the height from center of the axle to bolt hole, and the vert sep b/t the bottom of the frame and the other bolt hole.

Does anybody have an RTI ramp? I could probably find some steep drop offs somewhere....I need to measure for a front dshaft. So that and 241 seals/bushings/flange swap will happen soon.

[Ky Mudhunter]

Center of axle to Bolt hole is about 6" and center of the same bolt hole to my crossmember is about 4.5" at ride height.

[blazerbrad]

Millions and millions of leaf spring vehicles came out of the factory with track bars. The YJ Wrangler and the older leaf spring Super Duty trucks are the best examples. The need for the track bar on leaf springs comes from using softer and longer springs that provide a better ride, but they also allow a lot side-to-side movement which leads to sloppy handling. You don't see them on many older vehicle because they used stiffer leaf springs and there wasn't as much expectation to cruise 80 mph down the freeway in an old CJ-5 or Ford Highboy with two fingers on the steering wheel.

[BillysGruff]

Anybody work at a warehouse where I could use a forklift to determine lengths for my front driveshaft?

[Ky Mudhunter]

Don't know if this helps you or not but here is how I have checked mine (also for checking tire clearance). I take all of the leaf springs out except the main leaf, then reassemble the axle to the main leaf. This way I can flex it with "little" force. I usually just use a floor jack to flex everything.

[BillysGruff]

Thats cool, unfortunately the floor jack method doesnt work for me. I dont have enough jack to max the suspension out. Not really a bad thing.... :dancing:

I have a 1 ton cherry picker, but am a little nervous about using it for this.

[Ky Mudhunter]

Yeah, I was lucky that one of my jacks came with an extension you can put on in place of the typical pad so that I can get some additional height.

[itbrokeagain]

Have I seen this truck running around Anderson? Live on salem?

[BillysGruff]

Have I seen this truck running around Anderson? Live on salem?

Yes :singingbev: Hopefully I wasnt doing anything stupid, lol.

[itbrokeagain]

Yes :singingbev: Hopefully I wasnt doing anything stupid, lol.
My mom lives next to the fire house and I work in Anderson. I see it all the time

[BillysGruff]

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q740/BillysGruff/20141229_063037_zps6khzvr65.jpg

So in order to make this work, I had to remove 5/16" of the splines from the back because the shaft has a non splined part. I used the drill press and a cylindrical grinding stone set at the proper height and went around till it was ground down fairly well. The first time I didnt take enough metal out and the assembly was moving back and forth. The second time I felt it slip over the non-splined part and the dust cover was in the right spot. I also ordered a 2011 Ram 2500 d-shaft from car-part for $85, which will be the base, since they have double cardon 1350 CV's with a flange that mates up well with the 208 flange. I may have to grind some down of the flange if its in 4-high. Looks like it might hit, but we'll see. I replaced the seal because it was leaking. I also put some caulking at the end of the splines just to make sure it doesnt leak anymore.