95 S-10 Truggy Build

[93 Krawler]

The base is a 95 S-10 ext cab. I will be using a lot of parts from my 93 full size PU.
This includes:
Front axle: 79 Ford hi pinion D60, locked, 35 spline chromo in and out, drive flanges & 5:38 gears
Rear axle: Ford 10.25, locked, stock shafts.
Engine: 05 5.3, currently stock "for now"
Trans: 4L60E
T-case: NP 241
Suspension seats
Fuel cell
Rear drive shaft

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The plan is to 4 link front and rear with ORI 16" struts all the way around. Cut the frame off at the rear of the cab and tube it. Trying to stay around 117" wheel base. The front will be chopped off close to the water pump. Will relocate the radiator to the rear. Tube the front and mount the winch up front.

Started on the interior today. It was nasty and there was a some alarm wiring mess that needed to come out. Someone put a push button to start it. I thought it was issues from the alarm, but it wasn't. After I got the mess out and hooked everything back up correctly, something is still wrong. When you turn the key on, it engages the starter. Sounds like the ignition switch. Gutted the interior and what a difference it made. The smell is mostly gone now. :d'oh:
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[monkeystrong]

Looks like a good plan. What's your timeline for completion?

[93 Krawler]

It really depends on funds. The shocks and links are a big chunk of money. I figure about two years max.

[Runoveru2]

Glad to hear you going with ORI

[bbtank45]

Ive had mixed opinions on the ORI's, none from personal experience of course. Why the decision to go the ORI route over a coil over?

Awesome build starting here Kevin. Let me know if i can ever lend a hand.

[93 Krawler]

Ive had mixed opinions on the ORI's, none from personal experience of course. Why the decision to go the ORI route over a coil over?

Awesome build starting here Kevin. Let me know if i can ever lend a hand.

I like the rebound dampening the most. Not dealing with dialing in coils is a plus too. I have yet to see anyone that does what we do and not like them.

[bbtank45]

I like the rebound dampening the most. Not dealing with dialing in coils is a plus too. I have yet to see anyone that does what we do and not like them.

Agreed. And, you essentially have built in air bumps. Tunability is endless as well.

One specific reason i went with coil overs instead of the ORI's....In the event of a roll over, or any damage to the shock an ORI has the potential to prevent wheeling the rest of a trip (putting your rig out of commision). CO's will continue to maintain ride height using the springs where an ORI or air shock will compress when pressure is lost. Mark's roll on Grapevine as an example.

[93 Krawler]

Agreed. And, you essentially have built in air bumps. Tunability is endless as well.

One specific reason i went with coil overs instead of the ORI's....In the event of a roll over, or any damage to the shock an ORI has the potential to prevent wheeling the rest of a trip (putting your rig out of commission). CO's will continue to maintain ride height using the springs where an ORI or air shock will compress when pressure is lost. Mark's roll on Grapevine as an example.

Makes sense. Hope I don't have that issue. I'll make sure mine are turned in and not out.

[93 Krawler]

Best part is, from now on when someone asks Kevin "how much are them purdy shocks?" I'll get to give Kevin that look he and others always gives me, lol.
:laughing: I hear ya. If anyone asks what your axle is I'm going to say it's one of them 10K axles. :rotf:

[93 Krawler]

Been looking at heims, and link kits. Some kits had larger lowers than uppers, some were the same size. Are 1 1/4 heims with 2" 1/4 wall tubes good for my lowers? Same for the uppers, or smaller. Buy the brackets or make them? I have a plasma cutter...
I thought the shocks were expensive, the heims are ridiculous. About a grand for 16 1 1/4 heims. :eek:

[underpowered]

1 1/4 is overkill for the lowers. granted, overkill is good, but 7/8" are fine. Most guys i know only run 7/8" without issue and is all i am running. Unless you beat it like a bouncer, you don't "need" 1 1/4 heims. especially on the uppers, they see far less stress than the lower do.

as for the tube, once again, overkill is not a bad thing and strength greatly depends on your over all length of the links themselves. a longer link will need a stronger material to better resist bending.

[WrenchMonkey]

Are 1 1/4 heims with 2" 1/4 wall tubes good for my lowers? Same for the uppers, or smaller.

I wouldn't do anything less than 2" x 3/8" lowers and even that's sketchy. To me 1/4 wall links belong on a sami. When it comes to lowers overbuilt is a good thing...

Yeah, I run 2x025 on my XJ, and it's not much more than a sami.

I bet you could split the difference, though. 2 or 2.25 by 375 lowers on a 1.25 end, then smaller/lighter/cheaper uppers.

[underpowered]

Thing is, you're running 36" tires and a 10 bolt front axle where as Kevin currently runs 40" tires on 1 tons so that's not an equal comparison, you won't be wheeling where he does (no offense). Kevin might be seen at Haspin now and then, but this rig will live at the toughest obstacles at Harlan and Windrock where the stresses involved are much higher. We're talking about the need to not just survive class 5 obstacles, but the need to survive them over and over and over. Ever been in Rattlerock at Windrock from beginning to end? How about Grape Vine at Harlan in the rain? Ever see a heim break or pull out of it's threads? It's not pretty and has a tendacy to have a domino effect by breaking other parts, especially on a front 3 link. (a broken front 3 link heim can be so catastrophic that just getting it back to camp and on a trailer could be the biggest challenge). Btw, SRRS bouncers don't run $48 1-1/4" heims, they run the $100 ones at min on up to $150 a piece builder ball joints. Big difference. For example. You can buy a cheap 7/8" heim for $20 from one place or a higher quality Aurora 7/8" x 7/8" heims for $70 ea at another place. A cheap 1-1/4" for $48 ea or an Aurora 1-1/4" for $90. Lot's to consider here. It's all about compromises between strength/wear/cost/service life. FK is another good brand btw. Watch out for anything made in China. And remember, heim size is directly related to bolt and thread shank diameter.

I would never trust cheap 7/8 heims in 2" x 1/4" lower links on a 5k lb rig where this pic was taken.


Actually I am on one tons and 38.5's currently, it will be placed everywhere Kevin plans on taking his in Harlan, the badlands etc.. I understand the compromise, but as i said, it is not just me. A few guys i know (not on here) run nothing more than good 7/8" heims on their full size rigs. If you think you need 1 1/4, then by all means get them but i am just saying they are most likely overkill.

It is a lot of personal preference i guess. I'd have no concern with 2" 1/4 wall and 7/8" heims in that spot of your pic. Only time i have ever seen a 7/8" break is in a hard roll with lots of side load on them, but i've seen plenty of 1 1/4" break in that same situation as well.

[93 Krawler]

I was under my rig yesterday looking at everything I would have to transfer/redo on the s10 and decided it would better and quicker to just use the full size frame and put the s10 cab on it. My down time on the rig will probably be a little longer, but I think the overall time will be much quicker. Not having to take the drive train out will be a big help. I just have to decide when I want to stop wheelin the truck and tear it down. I still have the RZR to take on the trips.

I did some measuring and I like the numbers. :thumbup:

Full Size: S-10:
Frame width - 45" Frame width - 34.5" (10.5" smaller)
Body width at rocker - 72" Body width at rocker - 61" (11" smaller)
Frame height - 9.5" Frame height - 5.5" - (4" smaller)
Cab length - 57" Cab length - 70" - (13" bigger)
Cab mount to top of cab - 52.5" Cab mount to top of cab - 47.5" (5" shorter)
Overall height minus exo - 82" Overall height after swap no exo - 77"

[underpowered]

Downtime will be longer, but overall build time should be shorter i would guess. seems like a pretty viable option.

[93 Krawler]

Been doing what I can till I rip the other one apart. Hit u pull for some parts. Replaced the ignition switch, and no more starter issues. Found a non a/c blower box to get rid of the huge a/c one. What a difference. Thanks Mark!! Had to replace most of the interior. Pulled the suspension seats out of rig to get them fitted in this one. I really like the space in the cab. I was expecting to feel cramped compared to the full size, but I wasn't at all. It is nice to be able to recline my seat without hitting the back window. Still looking for an auto console so the shifter will be between the seats. The stock 1500 4x4 shifter should work out in the s10 cab.
I decided to tear the rig apart after the Windrock trip in September. Hoping to have it done by the Harlan southern shine in May. That's about 9 months... :thumbup:

[93 Krawler]

The cab comes off tonight. I will work on wiring and other interior stuff until its time to chop up the rig.

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[93 Krawler]

The rest of the truck is gone. Now I can easily roll the cab around in the garage. Time to sort though some wiring and get rid of wires I dont need.

[Runoveru2]

Looking good :thumbup:

[WrenchMonkey]

Gone, or just out of the garage?

Cut that frame in two, bolt a coupler to the back half, and sell your new "trailer" for half what you paid for the truck!

:D

[93 Krawler]

Gone, or just out of the garage?

Cut that frame in two, bolt a coupler to the back half, and sell your new "trailer" for half what you paid for the truck!

:D

Gone. Hit the scrap yard this morning. I got half of what I paid for the truck. $200 :thumbup:

[Ky Mudhunter]

Where did you take it that gave $200? Most places I have heard only offer $50-100 right now for scrap vehicles.

[93 Krawler]

Where did you take it that gave $200? Most places I have heard only offer $50-100 right now for scrap vehicles.



Garden st on new haven rd. 110 a ton for unclean at 3120lbs. It was like $172 and I had a few radiators and some brass to go along with it. Together it was $196.

[93 Krawler]

Almost time to start chopping. After Harlan, it's on... :thumbup:

[jeepmanjeff]

Cool...what suspension?

[93 Krawler]

Linked all around with ori struts.

[93 Krawler]

Got a 3 &4 link kit with 1.25 hiems from RuffStuff. Saved $300 on a black Friday deal. Merry Christmas to me. :thumbup:

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[93 Krawler]

After a looong pause... it's time to get busy.
Started getting rid of the extra wiring and finding what i need to hook back up. Most of the wiring will come over with the engine. Once i get the wiring sorted out, I'll start building a frame. Then the old rig gets stripped.9658

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[bbtank45]

After a looong pause... it's time to get busy.
Started getting rid of the extra wiring and finding what i need to hook back up. Most of the wiring will come over with the engine. Once i get the wiring sorted out, I'll start building a frame. Then the old rig gets stripped.9658

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Glad to see the pause is over. Are you going to use the factory gauge cluster?

Going back with a 241, or change it out for something gear driven?

[93 Krawler]

Glad to see the pause is over. Are you going to use the factory gauge cluster?

Going back with a 241, or change it out for something gear driven?Yes I will use the factory gauge cluster. It should wire up just like my old one.
After breaking four 241 cases, I'll be putting in an atlas this time

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[DoWorkXJ]

Yes I will use the factory gauge cluster. It should wire up just like my old one.
After breaking four 241 cases, I'll be putting in an atlas this time

Sent from my SM-G930V using TapatalkGood call on the Atlas!

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[jeepmanjeff]

getting a deal on one some where?

[93 Krawler]

getting a deal on one some where?I wish. The chances of me finding a drivers drop case that is used will be slim. I have plenty of time to find one though.

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[93 Krawler]

Made some progress on wire chopping. Located the wires for: Temp and oil gauge, alt, starter, fuel pump and sender, tail and brake lights, headlights. Fan motor and wipers are still active, as well as the horn and washer pump. Not much left on the firewall. Old pcm and wiring is gone. Hooked up the battery and everything worked that should.

I'm hoping to be able to mount the pcm inside this time since the heater box is external on the s10. The ac/heater box on the 1500 was huge and inside the cab. Swapping the setup from the old rig should be pretty simple since I labeled everything inside the cab from the first swap. The LS engine harness is separate from the truck.

Removed some non essential items from the pig. Took the seats, radio, CB, speakers, misc wiring. Just need to be able to pull it in the garage when the time comes.

Left overs
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Passenger side almost done. Need to drill a hole and send that main loom under the blower motor instead of around by the door. It unplugs just inside the cab.
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Still have to pull the pass thru connector out and remove the mass of wires that gotta go. And no, the wire nut isn't staying... it's just for testing purposes.
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[bbtank45]

Yes I will use the factory gauge cluster. It should wire up just like my old one.
After breaking four 241 cases, I'll be putting in an atlas this time

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Glad to hear it Kevin! SCS did recently come back with a 2 speed case...with quick change gears. I havent priced them tho.

[jeepmanjeff]

man do I love wiring!

[93 Krawler]

Got all the tubing I need to complete it now. Time to get busy.

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Painted the firewall and door frames the final color. Now I won't have to paint around an engine. The color I picked out is GM ultra silver metallic.

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Been working mostly on wiring and the interior. I still have to mount a harness bar behind the seats, and paint the floor black. This truck had a column shift, so I hit Upull and found a nice console shift setup. I really like the feel so far.
If this extended winter would go away, I could get busy on the tube.

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[94Dodge Truggy]

Lookin good! When do you think it will be completed? Find a t-case?

[93 Krawler]

Lookin good! When do you think it will be completed? Find a t-case?No tcase yet. Maybe by fall. We'll see... I'm in the rzr rest of this season.

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[jeepmanjeff]

looks great!

[93 Krawler]

I built a small platform using 1/8" HDPE for my tools and such to sit on.

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My stereo equipment fits perfectly where the jump seats were.

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These interlocking boxes and tool box worked out great.

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Welded 1/8 plates under the seat brackets to make sure they stay put. Coated the floor with a heavy coat of oil base paint.

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While I wait for the paint to dry completely, I started the frame. This is where the cab will be when it's completely done. It will have a 23" belly height, and it will be 3" shorter that my old rig. A full 12" less wide than the old one too.

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Got the frame tacked together. I chose to use a 2x8 box to mimic the frame on the old rig. This will make sure the belly is flat just like it was. The old rig frame was 44" wide. I wanted to keep it close to that just to keep the exhaust and everything else tucked in between. I couldn't do 44" since the cab holes were 44.5", so I moved them in just enough to fit a bolt beside the frame. It ended up being 42" wide this time.

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Got the frame bolted on now. I'll be bending tube soon. :thumbup:
The front and rear will be all tube. I will cap the frame ends, then drill and weld tube through the ends. The front will be narrow since the radiator will be behind the cab. It's just about time to pull the heavy Chevy apart so I can lay out the drive train.

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[WrenchMonkey]

So damn cool...

[beer_goggles_009]

Those toolboxes are awesome. DoWorkXJ (Justin) has a set, I had them at my house for a few days and they looked very nice.

Interested to see how you are going to lock the boxes into place. are you planning on using the built in "interlocking" function of the boxes to hold them in without racket straps or bungee cords?

[93 Krawler]

Those toolboxes are awesome. DoWorkXJ (Justin) has a set, I had them at my house for a few days and they looked very nice.

Interested to see how you are going to lock the boxes into place. are you planning on using the built in "interlocking" function of the boxes to hold them in without racket straps or bungee cords?I will bolt the 1st crate to the floor, and also use a ratchet strap to hold the top boxes in place. I haven't decided how to hold the toolbox down yet. I will definitely make sure they are secure in case of a rollover.

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[jeepmanjeff]

looking great and a lot of progress for sure. I went out a week later and bought 2 of the top boxes. All my tools fit in these with exception of my deep wells. They are really heavy per box...like I believe 75 to 100 lbs each. The interlocks are great and I am securing with straps and tie down points.

Building a new rig is time consuming, but very rewarding as well. If you need some help tearing apart or bending tube let me know. If I have the time I will help. Got a lot going on here as well with my rebuild and Zach's new goodies. We will be ready for rush though.

[93 Krawler]

No turning back now... Going use some of the old tube for rock sliders. The drive train will be coming out soon.

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[jeepmanjeff]

nice progress!

[93 Krawler]

I needed to get some key measurements for the drivetrain off the old truck so while I had it up in the air, I started taking non-essential things off that I didn't need to move back and forth out of the garage.
Just for kicks I've been weighing things off the old truck to see what they weigh. I knew the old doors were heavy by taking them on and off. They weighed 103 lb. After lightening the new doors a little they weighed 68 pounds. I weighed the old winch plate and it weighed 52 lb. I'm quickly seeing why weighed so much...
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[93 Krawler]

Worked on the rig a little while I was waiting on rzr parts.
I didn't like the way the frame was hanging down so I notched it to fit the cab better. Gained 2 3/8" by doing it. That will subtract from the total height. It was a lot of work, but well worth it. Still got the other side to do. :sweatin:

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[beer_goggles_009]

Frame rails look great Kevin. That height reduction will also help lower your center of gravity.

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[93 Krawler]

Just about done with the main frame and rock siders. I used some of the 2 1/8 x .188 DOM from the old rig for the sliders. I pushed the support tubes through the box where the exo will come down. It was a lot of work, but should be really strong.

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[93 Krawler]

Got the other side done. Ready to bend some tube. [emoji106]9944

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[93 Krawler]

Got the rear hoop done. This is the hardest one to bend in my opinion. I like to keep gaps tight so it has 13 bends in it. The tube is behind the cab so the pic from the back is deceiving. Going to work on the back next.
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[Runoveru2]

I'm excited to see the progress, let me know when you need a hand, I will help you, I wanna see this rig complete.

[Smiddy24]

Looks really good Kevin! CAN'T WAIT to see more progress! :thumbup:

[93 Krawler]

I wanna see this rig complete.

CAN'T WAIT to see more progress! :thumbup:

Not more than I do. I miss my big ass Chevy... But can't wait for my SS10.

[bbtank45]

Looking awesome Kevin, keep the updates coming :thumbup:.

Are you going to keep the engine in "OEM" location to keep the 117" wheelbase?

[93 Krawler]

Looking awesome Kevin, keep the updates coming [emoji106].

Are you going to keep the engine in "OEM" location to keep the 117" wheelbase?Thanks.
Yes, that is the plan.

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[93 Krawler]

Made some progress on the build this weekend. Still debating on how to do the front.998699879988

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[WrenchMonkey]

Ooo, I like that profile a lot...

[bbtank45]

Awesome Kevin! :thumbup:

Are you expecting to remove/rework any of the cab floor to keep a relatively flat belly?

[93 Krawler]

Awesome Kevin! :thumbup:

Are you expecting to remove/rework any of the cab floor to keep a relatively flat belly?

The main reason I ditched the S10 frame was to duplicate the full size frame so I could keep the belly flat. The area under the S10 is really close to the full size so I shouldn't have to do anything to the floor pan. How it actually works out is another thing.

[93 Krawler]

I always liked the old rig better when it had the fenders on it, so I'm thinking about leaving them on this time. The S10 is a little wider in the front than the big rig was. I think visibility out the front is a lot better in the S10, so do I dove the front or leave it straight. I originally wanted to do all tube in the front, but I don't think it would look right. The fenders will need to be cut along the silver/teal line so there won't be much fender left. The factory grill will be cut to remove the headlights. Since the radiator will be behind the cab, the approach angle should be good.

[Runoveru2]

My opinion is a rig looks a little better if has at least a little bit of the body left to determine what it at least started out as.
In your case it's close to what it truly is..just gonna be on steroids.

[bbtank45]

My opinion is a rig looks a little better if has at least a little bit of the body left to determine what it at least started out as.
In your case it's close to what it truly is..just gonna be on steroids.

I agree!


But you should take my opinion lightly, i still wheel a toyota :laughing: at heart

[93 Krawler]

I am leaving the fenders on, but may cut and dove them some. Dovetailing will help with bending the tube around the front of the grill. I measured the length of my old rig and the new one is about 26" less. So that's -13" wide, -4" high, and -26" long. Hopefully it's 800-1000 lbs less. I won't know how to act. :thumbup:

[barnhartal]

Kevin here's a pic of a buddy's s10 with exo, thought maybe you could use to envision yours.
Are you wanting a 205? I think I know where is.

[bbtank45]

Kevin, ill have a hood....front fenders, and dog house available here in the next few weeks if you want any spare body parts. 1998 S10 ext cab....black.

Message me....i can drop it off on my way to the scrap yard.

[93 Krawler]

Kevin here's a pic of a buddy's s10 with exo, thought maybe you could use to envision yours.
Are you wanting a 205? I think I know where is.

I do like the front of that rig. Do you have anymore pics of it?

I am thinking about doing a 241/205. I might be able to buy back a 205 I sold someone locally. I was checking out the eco box from NW fab. I already have a 241 to source parts from.

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[93 Krawler]

Kevin, ill have a hood....front fenders, and dog house available here in the next few weeks if you want any spare body parts. 1998 S10 ext cab....black.

Message me....i can drop it off on my way to the scrap yard.

Sure. I would like to test out narrowing the front and see if I like it. I could use some doors, core support, hood, and fenders if you got them. Maybe some sheet metal off the cab. My pass rear cab corner is gone. The rocker has a hole in it too.

[bbtank45]

The 241/205 double is what I run. Highly recommend it.

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[barnhartal]

I do like the front of that rig. Do you have anymore pics of it?

I am thinking about doing a 241/205. I might be able to buy back a 205 I sold someone locally. I was checking out the eco box from NW fab. I already have a 241 to source parts from.

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Having my buddy send me some more pics of his rig.
I love having the doubler. Although I did lose low in it last wknd. Not sure why right now, will let you know when I tear into today.
Let me know on 205. I know we've got one laying in shop.

[barnhartal]

Here ya go Kevin.

[WrenchMonkey]

Ha! Thing's got a face like a furby!

[93 Krawler]

Ha! Thing's got a face like a furby![emoji23]

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[93 Krawler]

Here ya go Kevin.Thanks.

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[barnhartal]

Ha! Thing's got a face like a furby!

Lmao.
Didn't say it didn't have it's faults

[93 Krawler]

I'm as far as i can go on the rear without the axle in. Still have some bracing to do after the shocks and axle are in. Time to work on the roof and sides.
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[93 Krawler]

I ordered my 16" ORI's today. That sure hurt...[emoji54]

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[kyrel69]

I ordered my 16" ORI's today. That sure hurt...[emoji54]

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I bet it did.

Why did you pick those over all of the other options out there? I have been thinking of going with them too but do not know anyone that has them

[93 Krawler]

I bet it did.

Why did you pick those over all of the other options out there? I have been thinking of going with them too but do not know anyone that has themI chose them mostly for ease of set up, and no bump stops or limit straps needed. But rebound dampening is a big plus too.
We have 2 guys in our group that run them, and 2 more besides me that are going with them.
I'm ordering the 241 eco box tomorrow. Hope you can find that 205[emoji848]

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[jeepmanjeff]

Looking really good!


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[Smiddy24]

I ordered my 16" ORI's today. That sure hurt...[emoji54]

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Did you go through Kirk from Jensen Bros?

[93 Krawler]

Did you go through Kirk from Jensen Bros?I ordered from their website

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[Smiddy24]

I ordered from their website

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Cool should see them relatively quick. The manufacturer started building Clear ones on Monday after they sent me the wrong ones. Did you get a different color besides black?

[93 Krawler]

Cool should see them relatively quick. The manufacturer started building Clear ones on Monday after they sent me the wrong ones. Did you get a different color besides black?I ordered clear but he called me and said that it could be a while before i would get them. He said they just finished the black parts and they would ship in 2 weeks. So I changed to the black ones.

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[Smiddy24]

I ordered clear but he called me and said that it could be a while before i would get them. He said they just finished the black parts and they would ship in 2 weeks. So I changed to the black ones.

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That's smart. I'm in no rush, whereas you can really throw in the axles some point soon.

[93 Krawler]

Got my ORI's today. Got my 241 doubler when I was in harlan. Got lots to do...10105
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[93 Krawler]

Got some more.goodies in.

31x19 rad with 2 - 1" tubes and shroud.

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Power steering cooler

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Trans cooler

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Rear truss

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[jeepmanjeff]

Santa just keeps coming to my house as well!


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[93 Krawler]

Been chugging along on the cage. I'm about as far as i can go until i get the drivetrain back in. Also have to cut the tack welds and pop the cab exo off to paint the cab. This will allow me to weld everything against the cab and paint it as well.

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[Smiddy24]

Looks very good man!

[jeepmanjeff]

That looks really good!


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[93 Krawler]

Thanks. Sick of doing tubing. I'll be glad when it's time for the mechanics.

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[beer_goggles_009]

Looks great!

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[93 Krawler]

Looks great!

Sent from my Pixel using TapatalkThanks. And how is yours coming along?

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[beer_goggles_009]

Not much progress on mine.

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[93 Krawler]

Got the exo welded, prepped and primed. Next the cab comes off for prep and paint.10139

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[93 Krawler]

I'll be mounting my radiator behind the cab. I am wondering what the minimum distance from the back of the cab would be and should I lean it forward at all?10149

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[93 Krawler]

Finishing up the repair panels. No more rust holes.

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[93 Krawler]

Picked up a 205 today for $150.
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[jeepmanjeff]

Nice!


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[93 Krawler]

After 4 hrs of cleaning...
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[93 Krawler]

All 3 shifters hooked up.
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[WrenchMonkey]

Holy chit, is that the same box?!?

[jeepmanjeff]

Wow! Very nice!


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[93 Krawler]

Holy chit, is that the same box?!?Yes sir, after lots of cleaning and wire brushing.

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[93 Krawler]

Finished up the patch panels. Bodywork is too much like work..
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[Smiddy24]

Like the paint job! Lookin' good Kevin!

[jeepmanjeff]

Very nice body work! You have way more patience than me!


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[93 Krawler]

Been plugging away on the body work. Decided to do a different body color. Something a little different. Should go good with the cage color. Hoping to paint the body the week of christmas.

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[Smiddy24]

What color is the body going to be? What color is that roll cage? I really like it!

[93 Krawler]

What color is the body going to be? What color is that roll cage? I really like it!The body color is a surprise. The cage color is aluminum. I bought the paint today so there's no going back now. It cost $375 for the sealer and the single stage urethane paint.

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[WrenchMonkey]

The cage color is aluminum.

Iss secssy...

[93 Krawler]

Today is paint day. Have to spray 1 coat of epoxy primer and 2-3 coats of single stage urethane top coat. Gonna be a busy day...

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[Smiddy24]

Can't wait to see what color you chose!

[93 Krawler]

Primer is done.10227

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[93 Krawler]

My make shift paint booth worked out pretty good. Cranked the heat to 82 after i was done. Once i get the body back on the frame, I'll post a pic. 10228

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[93 Krawler]

I got the body back on the frame. I still have to weld the exo on. Brought the old rig in to tear it down and remove the drivetrain.
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[WrenchMonkey]

Oh, that color looks GREAT. Nice choice!

[93 Krawler]

Oh, that color looks GREAT. Nice choice!Thanks. It's dark cherry metallic. Same color as my 96 Impala SS.

Finished robbing all the usable parts off the old pig. Time to put it all back together.

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[Smiddy24]

Love the color on the cab! Great choice with the roll cage!


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[93 Krawler]

I'm only posting this info for anybody that's swapping a 241 for a 205 241 Doubler. The 241 has a long snout that basically takes up the space of the 241 Doubler. Both cases end up being 19 1/2". The big difference is it moves your transfer case farther back making your front drive shaft longer but not really affecting how long your rear drive shaft is. In my case that will make my front drive shaft angle much better than it was before. The doubler I'm using is a Northwest Fab 241 eco box.

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[93 Krawler]

I need to make new driveshafts, so I need yokes and tubing. What is the OD and wall thickness of what you're using? I need to know what's holding up to the abuse we put them through. The last ones I built I used the 2 1/8 DOM I had laying around. I want to use something more common this time.

I also need to know how much slip to use on a linked suspension. I know it won't move as much as it did with the leaf springs. Knowing the diameter of the spline would help too.

[Smiddy24]

I may do the same on mine.. Save some money!

[93 Krawler]

I need to make new driveshafts, so I need yokes and tubing. What is the OD and wall thickness of what you're using? I need to know what's holding up to the abuse we put them through. The last ones I built I used the 2 1/8 DOM I had laying around. I want to use something more common this time.

I also need to know how much slip to use on a linked suspension. I know it won't move as much as it did with the leaf springs. Knowing the diameter of the spline would help too.

I guess no one has driveshafts...:straight-face:

[Runoveru2]

I do but I have a yoda..
I run 1/4 wall Dom.
Don't remember diameter right off,
Would have to measure.
I wouldn't make anything less than 1/4 wall.
I bent or twisted anything less.

[94Dodge Truggy]

I need to make new driveshafts, so I need yokes and tubing. What is the OD and wall thickness of what you're using? I need to know what's holding up to the abuse we put them through. The last ones I built I used the 2 1/8 DOM I had laying around. I want to use something more common this time.

I also need to know how much slip to use on a linked suspension. I know it won't move as much as it did with the leaf springs. Knowing the diameter of the spline would help too.

I run .1875" wall tube. 14" of slip is good. Too heavy can eat up parts. Best weak link is driveshafts.

[Smiddy24]

I guess no one has driveshafts...:straight-face:

I told you what my measurements were. Guessing you need a whole driveshaft?

[beer_goggles_009]

Tom woods uses 2" .120 wall for driveshafts.

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[bbtank45]

I used 2", 1/4 wall DOM. Ordered my yolks from Northern Drivetrain and Carolina Driveline machined to fit. Made them in the buggy.

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[93 Krawler]

I ended up buying parts for 2 in quarter wall tubing. Has about seven and a half inches of total slip. This should be plenty strong.

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[93 Krawler]

Been working on getting the tcase tucked in and making a sturdy crossmember. My last one was bent up, so I beefed this up. Had to cut a big hole in the floor to get the tcase up where i wanted it. Still sticks out the bottom an inch. So much for a flat belly pan. Oh well, it will be mostly flat...

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[93 Krawler]

Got my t case shifters mounted in my console. Worked out perfectly by cutting out the square junk tray.
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[jeepmanjeff]

Man that turned out great!


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[93 Krawler]

Since I run an electronic trans I needed to add a vss to the system. Luckily the ford np205 has the same 32 spline output as my np241 had. Drilled and tapped the case for the stock vss, and also had to remove about 1/4" off the reluctor ring width. So for a few hrs work and zero cost I have my oem vss setup.

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[93 Krawler]

Got the front end back on. Now i can build the frame from the firewall to the core support.

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[Smiddy24]

Lookin good, almost there man!

[Ky Mudhunter]

I did the same thing on my Ford 205 for the speed sensor. I couldn't believe how easy it was to add.

[Runoveru2]

Looking good, when are the axles going under it ?

[Smiddy24]

Looking good, when are the axles going under it ?

^^^^^^ :applause::thumbup:

[93 Krawler]

Looking good, when are the axles going under it ?Not soon enough. I'll most likely get the engine wired up before the axles go in.

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[Smiddy24]

Any update?

[93 Krawler]

I missed a week working on it cuz i was sick.
I got the pcm and fuse block mounted, frame and motor mounts done. Winch is ready to mount, and core support cut down to mount on frame.

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[jeepmanjeff]

Welded up the trusses, link brackets and set them in place today with Kevin. Gonna be really sweet when done. 10331103321033310334


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[93 Krawler]

That was a big help, thanks. Like 4 hrs of welding. Finally got the axles under the rig. Got the front and rear truss installed. The front and rear 4 links are almost done.

My last trip to Harlan i lost my pinion bearing. I was sure the gears were destroyed, but luckily there wasn't much damage to the teeth.

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[93 Krawler]

Working on the shocks now.
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[93 Krawler]

Back is done except the aluminum panel for my turn signals and reverse lights.

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[jeepmanjeff]

Looking awesome! Let me know when you want that aluminum


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[93 Krawler]

Looking awesome! Let me know when you want that aluminum


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Thanks, will do. Tim has a piece of stainless I might use instead. Depends on how it looks.

[93 Krawler]

Ok, here's one that makes no sense to me. See if you guys can solve this.
On the s10, the factory harness is running to the back to run tail, turn, back up, fuel pump, and fuel level. I cut the ends so i could reconnect later. So my issue is just with the rear lighting. I have a yellow, green "both turn signals", brown "tail lights" light green "back ups", and a white "brake lights" which i assumed was ground. Nope... I still had the tail light harness and didn't see a white wire anywhere. Where did this white wire hookup to run the brake lights? Any ideas...1038910390

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[Runoveru2]

The yellow and Green are also the brake lights.
It's a turn and brake light.

[93 Krawler]

The yellow and Green are also the brake lights.

It's a turn and brake light.Then where does the white wire go. The brake lights do not work without the white wire.

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[WrenchMonkey]

If yellow is left turn and left-side brake,
and green is right turn and right-side brake,
maybe white is third, high-mounted brake light?

[Runoveru2]

Is there power to the white wire when brake is applied?
The white "Should " be ground

[93 Krawler]

If yellow is left turn and left-side brake,

and green is right turn and right-side brake,

maybe white is third, high-mounted brake light?I believe that wire is ran inside the cab.

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[93 Krawler]

Is there power to the white wire when brake is applied?

The white "Should " be groundYes, power when applied. Grounding it blows fuse when brake is pushed.

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[93 Krawler]

I ended up running a diode from the white wire to each turn signal wires and it works like it should. Had to buy some resistors to put inline on the turn signals so they would blink (All LED's). I figured they would fast blink, but they wouldn't blink at all.
The list is getting shorter, but still quite a bit to do.

[93 Krawler]

Getting close. Still have the front exo to do and some misc stuff. Sittin a lil high right now. Should settle a bit.
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[Runoveru2]

Rig looks sweet and I'm sure it will perform well with the time you put into it, this may be 1 of the only pics we get to see of it nice, After a run up Crawford ' s cry and Lions den it will have a new look. :tongue_:

[jeepmanjeff]

Nice to see it on all 4’s. Looks really good! I think you will definitely need some wheel spacers in the back.


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[blazerbrad]

Looks good. I've always like the S-10 Truggy look, and anything that still looks like a vehicle. Now just needs a new set of 40" stickys on aluminum beadlocks!

[Smiddy24]

Looks good. I've always like the S-10 Truggy look, and anything that still looks like a vehicle. Now just needs a new set of 40" stickys on aluminum beadlocks!

Yes it does look good! I can't wait to see how this does down at Slade! Mine looks like a vehicle still :laughing: sort of :rotf:

Are you going to be able to make it to Slade as well?

[93 Krawler]

Looks good. I've always like the S-10 Truggy look, and anything that still looks like a vehicle. Now just needs a new set of 40" stickys on aluminum beadlocks!

Thanks. I'm happy with the way it's turning out.
New tires and wheels are gonna have to wait. This build has cost a lot more than i planned.

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[blazerbrad]

Thanks. I'm happy with the way it's turning out.
New tires and wheels are gonna have to wait. This build has cost a lot more than i planned.

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Yep, always turns out that way!

Not sure if I'll be able to make it to Slade or not. Have the steering rack out putting in some upgrade parts but haven't had time to finish it. Apparently the gremlins visited our house recently and caused havoc....upstairs shower drain started leaking so had to cut out the ceiling to fix it and then patch the ceiling, dishwasher quit so fixing it, icemaker in fridge quit so fixed it, and now the garbage disposal started leaking so that is next on the list. Almost forget that the steering cylinder on the lawn tractor went out and had to fix that also. Too cheap to pay people to come in and fix these things because that takes away money from the toys.......

[93 Krawler]

For the exhaust I bought a few mandrel bent 2.5" fittings from Summit Racing.
I had to cross over to the passenger side to keep the heat away from the tcase and fuel lines on the driver side. I used a u pipe to make a y pipe and ran 2 into 1 down the passenger side. All in all it wasn't too bad to do. I did have to buy a set of aftermarket manifolds so the driver pipe didn't exit on my link bar. I used a band clamp so I can separate it in 2 pieces for easy removal from the rig.

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[93 Krawler]

After putting the new windshield in, it was time to finish the front exo. I didn't want to add the bar that most people run across the cowl above the wipers that supports the roof, so I went a different route.
I ran a tube under the hood from fender to fender that supports the the fender exo and the roof support. Just has to notch the fender and hood a bit. Also ties the cross bar to the shock hoop cross bar.
I used tube bungs so I could remove it if I need to. I am still able to remove the fenders and grill with the exo in place.

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[93 Krawler]

Here is the almost finished product. I still have to make tube doors, install lights, and a skid plate.

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[93 Krawler]

Tried the new rig out at Slade. It did great and no major issues. I made a mistake in thinking all pcm's will utilize the 4 low shift tables. Just because they are showing in the tune, doesn't mean the pcm reads them. So when I switched rigs, I did away with the drive by wire and went to drive by cable. My old pcm would not work, so I used one from a 2003 Express van. After spending $100 on HP tuners credits, I found out that it wouldn't shift in low range. So now I have to find a 4x4 pcm that had drive by cable and spend another $100 in credits. Live and learn I guess...

Didn't take long to knock the new off of it.

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[bbtank45]

Looks great Kevin! Any idea what she weighs?

[93 Krawler]

Looks great Kevin! Any idea what she weighs?
Thanks. No, still have a few things to add before I get it weighed.

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[93 Krawler]

Got my headlights mounted. The low beams run the lower lights that are pointed towards the ground so people aren't blinded and the high beams turn all four lights on. Still have a 42 inch curved light bar to add on the top of the cab..

Low beams
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[Smiddy24]

Got my headlights mounted. The low beams run the lower lights that are pointed towards the ground so people aren't blinded and the high beams turn all four lights on. Still have a 42 inch curved light bar to add on the top of the cab..



Low beams

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Good thing you lead most of the time! Looks good!!


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