"THE HEEP" Buildup (SOA, 3/4 axles, Stak, Hi-steer)

[JeepHD]

Heep of money + Heep of time + Heep of parts = Heep of fun

Build consists of the following:

- Front Axle -Swap out D30 aussie locked for a HP D44 with OX locker - Clean up, install High steer, install 1350 Yoke, , new ball joints, Chromoly shafts w/superjoints.
- Rear Axle - Swap out Ford 8.8 open for a D60 with Detroit - Cleaned up and convert to disc brakes, Install 1350 Yoke
- Tires and Rims - H1 rims and set of 37-38 inch tires, looking for TSL SX, Boggers, or IROKs
-Transfer Case - Swap out the NP231 for Stak4x4 4.3:1 case
- Suspension - Swap out the 3.5 lift springs for a SOA setup, for a Stock YJ & Superlift replacement hybrid pack.
- Modify tub and fenders to to accept TJ flares to add more clearance for larger tires

Picture as purchased in early 2006
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Picture after first build, Spring 2006
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Picture as of 12/11/07 progress (trying to figure out what tire size to go with)
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Buildup Suggestions Thread - http://www.cincyoffroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1027

[94Dodge Truggy]

Looks improved! 37" irocs is what I would run.:)

[JeepHD]

Trying to get an idea on tire size. Pictured are 36x12.5x16.5 hummer tires and 37x12.50x16.5 Iroks that were borrowed from friend
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TSLs arrived

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[JeepHD]

Pics of the 2 speed Stak Transfer case. Transfer case was ordered with:
- Drivers side drop
- 4.3:1 gears
- 1350 front yoke
- 1350 rear flange
- Vehicle Speed Sensor
- Pinion brake
www.stak4x4.com

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NV3550 that was rebuilt a couple years ago, but has less than 100 miles on it.
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Stak Test fitted to NV3550
Out of curiosity I weighed these. Stak weighed in at 130 lbs, NV3550 with bellhousing weighed in at 105 lbs.
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Transmission and Stak are installed except for the shifters for the Stak. Everything went fairly well after I figured out how I wanted it clocked. Case is big and has eliminated my plans to run a flat skid for now.
Stak came in missing the calipers for the pinion brake, so I need to call on that today

Installed Stak

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[JeepHD]

High Pinon Dana 44 (HPD44) front out of a 1978-1979 Ford F-250.

Stock factory perches are used, but I ground hole for spring pin about a 1/2 inch toward center on both sides.

Specs an Parts Used:
OX locker
4.10 gears
Chromoly shafts & Superjoints from Yukon Gear - www.machinewave.com
New Spicer ball joints - www.shakerbuilt.com
High steer - www.kozoffroad.com
1 ton TREs - www.kozoffroad.com
DOM tubing for tie rod and drag link
1350 Yoke - http://www.highangledriveline.com/
U-bolts used - (3) 5/8 x 2 3/4 x 10 (1) 5/8 x 3 1/4 x 10 - www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
u-bolt plates - www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

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I need to grind part of the perch to fit ubolts on correctly as you can see in pics. It is just mocked up and u-bolts just finger tight.
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Added a couple more pics 2/17/08

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[JeepHD]

D60 out of a 1978-1979 Ford F-250 or F-350

This was a pretty easy swap. Stock perches need to be ground off and new ones welded on to fit Jeep application. Pinion angle needs to be set according to angle of transfer case and type of driveshaft running.

Parts Used:
U-bolts - (4) 5/8 x 3 1/4 x 10 www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
U-bolt plates - www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
Spring Perches - www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
Disc brake brackets - www.greatlakeoffrad.com
1350 Yoke - www.shakerbuilt.com
Disc brakes - 1975 Chevy 3/4 ton calipers and rotors
New Seals

[JeepHD]

With the axle swap I am converting to a Spring Over Axle (SOA) setup.

Rear - I used two main leafs from a superlift 1.5" replacement spring pack with the smaller leafs from the stock springs

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Front - I used stock YJ packs but I took a main leaf from another pack and cut the eyes off and added it below the main leaf

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[JeepHD]

Few pics of the Hi-Steer so far.

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[JeepHD]

I will be running 38 x 12.50 x 16.5 TSLs on H1 8 bolt hummer rims 8.25 x 16.5

35 lbs - H1 rim only(no beadlock or runflat)
47 lbs - H1 rim with complete runflat
41 lbs - H1 rim with beadlock (runflat cut off)
12 lbs - Runflat
6 lbs - Beadlock only (runflat portion cut off)
73 lbs - TSL only
114 lbs - Tire, rim & beadlock
456 lbs - (4) tires and rims

H1 Info thread - http://www.cincyoffroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1329
Tire Choice thread - http://www.cincyoffroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1293
Another Tire Choice thread - http://www.cincyoffroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1256

[94Dodge Truggy]

Nice info. Where do you plan on wheeling in 2008?

[JeepHD]

Nice info. Where do you plan on wheeling in 2008?

Badlands, Windrock, and Lost Valley are definites. Possibly Hillznhollarz or Redbird and whatever else comes up. Wouldn't mine going back to Harlan and BigRock(NOW CLOSED) as well, but that would probably be pushing it.

I plan to continue adding details, pics, and any other details as I get things done.

[JeepHD]

Left message with Stak this morning before they were open and they promptly called me back and are shipping the missing caliper. The good customer service I have heard about is holding true!

[JeepHD]

Stak came thru with the missing caliper bracket a couple days after the call.

Ordered (4) 38x12.5x16.5 TSLs today.

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Haven't really done anything to it lately.

[JeepHD]

Progress is slow, but getting a lot of small things done. H1 Runflats are cut of and beadlock ring is ground smooth. Sandblasted and painted front axle hub and steering arm parts. Should be able to get the front axle put together quickly and permanently installed.

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[MrShoeBoy]

If you dont already have plans for it, add some type of support at the back of the Stak. I have a 3 speed Stak in my MJ and at first it scared me just having the Stak hanging off the back of the tranny but after talking to them and getting something to help support it, I feel better. Also theres no way to get a flat belly with out a super tall body lift or hacking the crap out of the tub. I chose to hack the crap out of my body to get a semi flat skid :D Looks good by the way :cool:

AARON

[JeepHD]

If you dont already have plans for it, add some type of support at the back of the Stak. I have a 3 speed Stak in my MJ and at first it scared me just having the Stak hanging off the back of the tranny but after talking to them and getting something to help support it, I feel better. Also theres no way to get a flat belly with out a super tall body lift or hacking the crap out of the tub. I chose to hack the crap out of my body to get a semi flat skid :D Looks good by the way :cool:

AARON

Thanks,

Yeah, I would feel better with a support on the Stak and will do eventually. I just want to get in moving again first. I quickly realized the flat skid wasn't going to happen without some tub changes, which I will probably save for a future project if ever.

[MrShoeBoy]

I hear ya. Do you think you will have any issues with front driveshaft lenght and angles? I cut and rotated the knuckles on my HP 44 when I cut it down but that was with 4" of lift and the NP 231. Now with 6" springs up front and the Stak, my front d-shaft is super short and I am not sure I can get the shaft to run at speed with out destroying the CV or having wicked vibes. I would like to see your thoughts on front a driveshaft.

AARON

[JeepHD]

I hear ya. Do you think you will have any issues with front driveshaft lenght and angles? I cut and rotated the knuckles on my HP 44 when I cut it down but that was with 4" of lift and the NP 231. Now with 6" springs up front and the Stak, my front d-shaft is super short and I am not sure I can get the shaft to run at speed with out destroying the CV or having wicked vibes. I would like to see your thoughts on front a driveshaft.

AARON

I am hoping I can run a standard driveshaft in front. Running a CV on rear.

Checked the driveshaft. Front pinion is up at about 5 degrees, Stak is up at about 3 degress. Driveshaft is at 10 degree and will be about 37 inches and drop 7.5 inches from pinion to case. I think it will be ok running a stock driveshaft.

Anyone more knowledgable, please chime in. I can probably get the Stak close to level (0 degrees) if I need to

[JeepHD]

Pics of my little Jeepers, Well I'm not sure the littlest is quite ready!

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Wish I could keep my Jeep in the living room, I would be able to get it done faster :)

[jeepmanjeff]

Very nice write up.

[MrShoeBoy]

Sounds like you will be fine on the front. I keep forgetting the layout between a YJ and an MJ are that different. Keep up the pictures!

AARON

[JeepHD]

Just thought I would update on progress. The project is still underway, but progress has been slow. I was able to get the last three H1 wheels sandblasted over the weekend. Should have them painted and mounted up this week. Mostly been waiting for my inner Chromoly shafts, when I originally ordered them, I got F-150 instead of F-250 and there was some length differences. Just got a tracking number and I should have them Thursday (Happy Valentines Day to Me). I plan to have the front end together this weekend and have it on all fours. Will post up pictures when I get the treads mounted up and rolling.

[carwash]

you can make your own rear stak support, or buy theirs... it's super nice, notched to slide to any angle etc...

http://www.complete4x4.com/ImageFolio4_files/gallery/Shop_Projects/YJ_Crawler/06buggy_216.jpg

all looking good by the way...

[JeepHD]

How bad will this handle hills with 38s and a stock wheelbase? I will push the front forward an inch and the rear backword and inch, but I doubt that will do much. Might be able to get 2 inches out of the front. Is it worth trying to get the extra inch.

[94Dodge Truggy]

I would definitely support the stak case and keep the stock trans mount also. I would hate to break the stak off of the tranny! Minimize your driveshaft angle and your u-joints will thank you later on!

[carwash]

The extra 2 inches is worth it... you will want more, but take what you can get.

[JeepHD]

Got the front axle about 90% done. Need to route brake lines and burn on some shock mounts. I mounted it forward 2 inches. Also got the tires mounted. Only problems I ran into was that the bleeder screws are too long and hit the rim. Also had to grind the bolt that holds the brake clip on. Any ideas on the bleeder screw? I am going to try to get a shorter one, otherwise I will just have to grind off the end of the ones I have.

Here is some pics. Also, I am adding some pics of the high steer and front axle in previous posts.

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[JeepHD]

Height to top of Rollbar with 30psi in tires - 81 inches

Bottom of differential to ground - 12 inches

Front suspension travel - 12 inches

Total wheelbase - 97 inches (Front forward 2 inches, rear back 1 inch)

[94Dodge Truggy]

Man that looks really good!

[mckeddie]

do your flanges stick out past the wheel? i'd be afraid of hitting them on rocks?

[JeepHD]

Man that looks really good!

Thanks

do your flanges stick out past the wheel? i'd be afraid of hitting them on rocks?

I am concerned about that but plan on running as is for now. Flanges are about even with the outer lip of the rim. Offset an inch or so from th outer part the tire. May eventually change the backspacing on the rims. I would also like a little more width for stability.

[carwash]

ran hummer wheels at stock width with flanges sticking out past for years... no issues. jeff smith's are out past as well as Jim Smith's i believe... dont' worry about it, that stuff is strong. The rear can take the beating, the front can take even more if you go with drive flanges instead of lockouts.

[JeepHD]

Making some good progress lately. Stak shifters are hooked up, Slid rear axle back an inch. and lots of little things.

Info for anyone using H1 Rims on the HPD44 and I would guess the HPD60, there is some clearance issues. The original bleeder valves were too long, I had to find some shorter ones and replace them. Also the bolt that holds the clip in place for the caliper at the bottom of the caliper braket had to be ground shorter, as it rubbed the rim. After grinding I have clearance but only an 1/8 inch or less. I just hope a small rock or won't get jammed in there and cause problems. I really like how the H1 completely surrounds and protects the brakes though!

Should have my steering tie rods and longer brake lines this week to put on over the weekend. Should be down to driveshafts, TJ Flares and a few other odds and ends after the weekend. Ordering the driveshafts today from High Angle. I think I will end up with 1350s all around with a 1410 on the front of the case to be able to handle the 20 degree running angle.

Carwash and Truggy, what gear oil are you running in the stak? All I could find in their paperwork was GL-5 or better. What would you suggest?

I finally see the light at the end of the tunnel! Test run will be March 21&22 if I can't get a local test run in before.

[carwash]

i haven't put anything in mine yet, but i will be running Amsoil products all around in this rig...

[94Dodge Truggy]

I run a mobile 70w oil for industrial gearboxes.

[JeepHD]

Still making progress. Should get updated pics soon. Leaving next Thursday evening to ride in southern ohio, so the deadline is quickly approaching.

Done with all the major stuff except setting pinion angle and welding on perches on the rear. I am waiting on driveshafts which shipped yesterday from California and are scheduled to be delivered Wednesday. Guess I will put them in last minute.

Installed TJ flares last night. Really opened it up for the larger tires. Also made the tires look much more proportional to the jeep. I was impressed with the difference it makes in looks.

[JeepHD]

Got it put together enough for a shakedown run at the last minute. Definetly have some things to work out.

Traction bars - Need them front and rear. Any suggestions. Looking at typical style with bushings on axle end and a Heim on a shackle mount off the crossmember. Had so much wrap in the rear the I blew apart two u-bolt straps on the rear yoke, dinged up the d-shaft a little, and blew the caps on the u-joint.

OX Locker front - FOR SALE - Didn't seem to want to engage. I think it is because of the tight bends in the cable. Probably sell the OX and put an Aussie or similiar in the front.

NV3550 - Supposedly rebuilt. Has some noise, sounds like in the front bearing which I think it typical of early years of the tranny. Also occasionally popped out of 3rd when letting off gas. Going to replace the synchros in my AX-15 and put it back in instead. NV3550 will be FOR SALE.

Stak - Mount is sitting on bench and didn't get installed so with about a max of a half inch clearance from tub, it was hitting tub in rough terrain.

TSLs & H1 - Loved them, I would like change the backspacing on them by about 2 inchs for looks and stability.

Gearing - with the stak 4.3:1 offroad gear was very nice. No complaints off road. On road it was pretty weak when trying to turn the 38s going up hills, but it's not drivin on the road much anyway.

[94Dodge Truggy]

Make sure you mount the stak itself to some sort of bracing or it will twist off the 6 mounting studs! Front track bar is rarely needed with a good leaf sprung setup.

[JeepHD]

Make sure you mount the stak itself to some sort of bracing or it will twist off the 6 mounting studs! Front track bar is rarely needed with a good leaf sprung setup.

Yep, I am going to run two 2 x 2 square stock from one side of the frame to the other using poly bushings. One will hold tranny and front traction bar mount and the rear will hold stak and rear tractions bar. I will also tie the front and rear 2x2s together.

Friends watched and said my front was wrapping pretty bad also. I am running stock YJs with an added main leaf. I have 7 inch perches on front and rear. I would rather run traction bars and keep the soft springs that run stiffer springs. I would be open to other spring combinations, but I want to keep it as low and flexy as possible.

Thanks

[JeepHD]

Pics from two weeks ago. Not really any action shots, but proof I was out for the trial run.

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Ordering joints and bushing for antiwrap bars this week.

[94Dodge Truggy]

Where did you wheel?

[JeepHD]

Where did you wheel?

Private land.

[JeepHD]

Well I yanked the stock springs after bending one on basically nothing. I picked up 2 inch BDS lift springs. I chose them due to the full military wrap, lifetime warranty, no shipping since I travel by their distribution center monthly, and they were cheaper than most. Also finished my anti-warp on the rear and mounted the stak temporarily.

My write and pics on the antiwrap are here:
http://buckeyejeepers.forumz.cc/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=44

With the new springs and anti wrap, it performed much better. After visiting redbird and haspin over the weekend the only thing I do not like is the whole jeep tends to hop when I break traction. Any ideas what is causing this. I know my rear shock need changed because they don't do much due to the angle. The only other thing I could think of was the low pressure in the 38s, around 5 psi. Any thoughts.

[carwash]

Hopping when breaking traction would probably be due to the lack of shock stroke to slow down the hop.

[maddhatter]

This this has turned out great!!
Very cool build, I hope to see it out on the trail sometime.

[JeepHD]

Hopping when breaking traction would probably be due to the lack of shock stroke to slow down the hop.

Yep, that is my only thoughts at this point.

This this has turned out great!!
Very cool build, I hope to see it out on the trail sometime.

Thanks, Now I just need to get it to sit lower! 1 inch body lift is coming off and I am going to try to raise the rear spring mounts about an inch to loose another 1/2. Hopefully the springs settle down about an inch or so also.

[blazerbrad]

Did it hop the same way before the traction bar? Just wondering if the geometry (anti-squat) of the bar is part of the issue. A guy in our club put a traction bar on his and afterwards it would almost jump completely off the ground because of the super high anti-squat.

[MrShoeBoy]

Make the rear bar as long as you can. I had a similar issue with the traction bar in my old XJ. Would hop around after breaking loose. I lengthened the bar and it got better but would still hop a little. I completly solved the hopping in my new truck with a 4 link.

Good Luck,

AARON

[nshefbuch]

hey i came accross these springs. have you checked these out for your soa? i've always heard rubicon has the best leaf springs.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16311_5111.htm

[JeepHD]

hey i came accross these springs. have you checked these out for your soa? i've always heard rubicon has the best leaf springs.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16311_5111.htm

Yes I considered them, but they are twice the price as my BDS Springs and BDS has a better warranty. I also travel to Coldwater MI often for work and that is where BDS is located so I save shipping and if I do bend one, I can exchange when I am in the area for work. When I go my BDS springs they were about $80 a piece, so half the price of the REs. They have went up to $100 since.

Thanks
Josh