solid trackbar upgrade

[mossyoaktj]

i found this just searching around like usual and i didnt recall seeing neone running this set up for the track bar. its a solid way to help prevent that unwanted death wobble that we all kno n love. so id thought id share. its a track bar kit from clayton that gets rid of of the weak joint on the frame side.

http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info.php?products_id=161&osCsid=3a4e9b33fb9010118864e6b6372eec6c

[BIGRAM]

When I broke the stock bar on my Ram, I decided I did not need the curve around the diff so I went solid. Before it would wobble at about 35 mph, after I could drive it 70 down the interstate with no issues on 39.5" IROKS. Of course that's before welding the rear.

I would suggest it to anyone if they have the clearance for a straight bar.

[mossyoaktj]

When I broke the stock bar on my Ram, I decided I did not need the curve around the diff so I went solid. Before it would wobble at about 35 mph, after I could drive it 70 down the interstate with no issues on 39.5" IROKS. Of course that's before welding the rear.

I would suggest it to anyone if they have the clearance for a straight bar.

do you have any clearnace issues at full stuff

[KennyTJ]

Yea, a lot of manufactureers have gone to the bracket to rotate the mounting of the Hiem joint to horizontal vs. verticle. The factory used a tie rod end, so the verticle mount made sence, but a heim joint wears out quickly in that position, my RE sure did! Rubicon Express, X-Factor, Rough Country... you get the point all offer a bracket with thier front trackbar now.

:beers:

[BIGRAM]

None at all, it does great. I can't say I've taken it easy either.

I used one existing rod end with about 4 inches of the original rod. My machinist didn't have left handed threads the size I needed so we milled down the shaft, slid on the ends, and welded in place. And for a nice, smooth look we milled the welds back down.

Been over a year ago and I'm still pleased.

[mossyoaktj]

Yea, a lot of manufactureers have gone to the bracket to rotate the mounting of the Hiem joint to horizontal vs. verticle. The factory used a tie rod end, so the verticle mount made sence, but a heim joint wears out quickly in that position, my RE sure did! Rubicon Express, X-Factor, Rough Country... you get the point all offer a bracket with thier front trackbar now.

:beers:

what makes the heim joint wear so fast in that location?

i want to get something will be a good upgrade and help to control death wobble, the jeep was getting death wobble on a regular basis when i was last home, i made a few adjustments to cover it up some so this winter when i get back im upgrading the whole the steering system. would the clayton track bar still be a better option over factory

with the RE track bar do you not need to use the drop bracket on the axle side like you do with the oem track bar and does go the same with all aftermarket hd track bars?

[mossyoaktj]

ok so looking at the rough country track bar. its a more than hundred less htan the clayton. i kno the phrase "you get what you pay for" but is there honestly goin to be any quality difference in the two. i notice the mounts are different, the clayton bolt to the factory mount and also welds the frame where the rough country mounts by drilling and putting bolts throught the frame, and i would honestly add welds to help strengthen it up more

[KennyTJ]

what makes the heim joint wear so fast in that location?

i want to get something will be a good upgrade and help to control death wobble, the jeep was getting death wobble on a regular basis when i was last home, i made a few adjustments to cover it up some so this winter when i get back im upgrading the whole the steering system. would the clayton track bar still be a better option over factory

with the RE track bar do you not need to use the drop bracket on the axle side like you do with the oem track bar and does go the same with all aftermarket hd track bars?

I have an RE and if you mount the Heim joint in a horizontal position (i.e. the factory mount) the joint is flexing to the sides when the suspension travels up and down, this wears the joint fast. I have had min a year and it's wore out. If you mount it vertically you are simply spinning around the ball side of the joint as the suspension moves, and the hiem will last forever. The Rubican Express is a good trackbar but get the extra bracket. If you can weld get a bracket from Ballistic Fab or Ruffstuff it'll cost like $20-$30 less than half what RE wants!

I will most likely make mine.

[mossyoaktj]

I have an RE and if you mount the Heim joint in a horizontal position (i.e. the factory mount) the joint is flexing to the sides when the suspension travels up and down, this wears the joint fast. I have had min a year and it's wore out. If you mount it vertically you are simply spinning around the ball side of the joint as the suspension moves, and the hiem will last forever. The Rubican Express is a good trackbar but get the extra bracket. If you can weld get a bracket from Ballistic Fab or Ruffstuff it'll cost like $20-$30 less than half what RE wants!

I will most likely make mine.

sounds like the route to go, i will def look n2 that here later today once work slows down i plan on ordering everything here within the next few weeks

[mossyoaktj]

looking at all the different kits, im drawn as in which one to get. theres a lot of price differance but i want a kit where it has a sturdy bracket for the heim joint. any ideas as to which kit would be the better buy

[adamkn]

I dont think anyone mentioned it yet - but if you install a drop bracket for your track bar, you really need to install a dropped pitman arm. (please correct me if I'm wrong on this). Without the dropped pitman arm, then your track bar and drag link will be at different angles, and you'll get "bump steer". So if you really want a drop bracket, that's an extra expense to figure in.

From what I can tell in the picture of Clayton's trackbar, looks like they have a "Johnny joint" on the frame-end of the bar. For this type of application, I think that's the best type of joint you can have (better life-span and less vibration than a heim joint, and better articulation than a bushing), plus it's rebuildable. You won't find that type/quality of joint on a rancho track bar.

looking at all the different kits, im drawn as in which one to get. theres a lot of price differance but i want a kit where it has a sturdy bracket for the heim joint. any ideas as to which kit would be the better buy

[KennyTJ]

On a TJ with the inverted "Y" link steering you DO NOT want to run a drop pitman arm as it will make bumpsteer worse. On the CJ and YJ it was OK with the inverted "T" setup and limited flex of the leaf springs.

The track bar drop bracket we a talking about is not at the axle end, but on the frame end. I gives the added bennefit of keeping the steering drag link and the track bar parrallel. This is important with the TJ steering set-up.

Hope this helps...

[mossyoaktj]

On a TJ with the inverted "Y" link steering you DO NOT want to run a drop pitman arm as it will make bumpsteer worse. On the CJ and YJ it was OK with the inverted "T" setup and limited flex of the leaf springs.

The track bar drop bracket we a talking about is not at the axle end, but on the frame end. I gives the added bennefit of keeping the steering drag link and the track bar parrallel. This is important with the TJ steering set-up.

Hope this helps...

thats what im wanting to upgrade to is a frame drop but when i installed the lift a few years ago it came with a dropped pitman arm and a track bar drop bracket(axle side). i was just wondering if i ugraded to a thicker track bar without gettng a frame drop bracket, would i still need the DPA or axle side drop bracket for the trackbar, this would be with an adjustable trackbar

[KennyTJ]

All the like kit manufacturers kept putting drop pitman arms in the kits, and it is a Definite NO NO for a TJ!