Cracked engine block

[redcj3a]

Does anyone know a company that repairs cracks in cast engine blocks?

Thanks,

John

[330T]

dont know if they are in business but Don's Crank down in Cincinnati use to fix blocks back in the day

*edit... Don died, and the business closed :(

[JET455]

what is the block from?

[redcj3a]

My 3A. The original flathead.


John

[94Dodge Truggy]

That engine should be an easy fix. Thick iron.

[itbrokeagain]

513 875 3327 ask for Terry.

[redcj3a]

Thanks,

John

[KargoMaster]

So I have to ask, was this crack a recent development, or a hidden "feature" from the PO?

Look at it this way... after another dis- and re-assemble, you'll have no issue working on your rig in the middle of the woods at night without a flashlight.

Sorry to hear of this John...

[redcj3a]

I was watching the temperature gauge and had some concern the temperature was to high. I then noticed water dripping off of my distributer. I then noticed the crack above the distributor mounting hole. Prior to this, what is actually a crack, looked like a run in the paint.

Some run.

I'm trying to put together another engine now. I would like to have it run for next Saturday's benefit show. More importantly is I want to take it to Wellston, Ohio the weekend of the 17-19th of August for the Flat Fender Frenzy. It is a group trail ride in the Richland Furnace area composed of only Willys flatfender jeeps. I was hoping to break it in that weekend. A websearc of "Mighty Mo" or "Flat Fender Frenzy" should lead to photos and video clips of other runs. No rock climbing, but there is some rather significant trail riding.

I'm trying struggling to orient the distributer properly to cylinder 1, TDC now. I'm not much of a mechanic, but these are simple engines to be learning on.

Thanks for asking.

John

[KargoMaster]

When I first fired the engine in the boat, I tried like heck to start it with the distributor 180 degrees from where it should be... Sarge gave me a good way to tell pretty quickly if #1 was at TDC...

Take the #1 plug out (heck, it would even turn far easier with all of them out), hold your finger over the plug hole, turn crank by hand until you can feel the compression pushing your finger out... then you should be able to use the mark on the harmonic balancer (assuming that is still valid with your flatty, there has to be some indication) to get it right on TDC... It worked like a charm for me, hope it might help you too...

[jfiscus]

Instead of your finger you can just put a small rag in the hole & it'll blow it out when you're almost at TDC, after that you can put a long screwdriver in the plug hole & find when the engine's at its top-most point. (at least that works on 4.0Ls)

[redcj3a]

Thanks for the information guys. I believe I got it right today. I will be going back to the garage and clean the block and head some more and maybe install the head. Tomorrow, I should get the ring gear on the flywheel replaced. Reinstall the clutch and I can see the engine going back in within a week. Hopefully running next week.

I couldn't have picked an engine much simpler to learn on.

It it makes it to Saturday's benefit, it will be via tow bar with and empty engine compartment. It's a short tow from Middletown.

John