I have a panhard bar (track bar) and no sway bar on mine. Why shouldn't it be on a leaf spring vehicle? All factory leaf sprung trucks that I know of had a track bar if they were setup with a side to side steering linkage (mostly Fords). The Chevy and Dodge trucks that had the front-back type steering linkage did not use a track bar since there was no side loading from the steering.

I'm not a fan. I considered modifying my stock one, but then realized its not really necessary.

Ok, good to know it helped with curvy roads. I notice it most when on my these types of roads. There's a ton in b/t my house and the river, and the truck gets squirrely sometimes. And I dont need to see the files, was just curious what your measurements were, just to get a baseline. I dont want the axle bracket to be too tall and slamming into things when pass side is fully bumped.
:thinking:

For strictly off road the track bar is not needed. I only added it to mine for the street since it was my daily driver back when I first built it. It definitely makes the street handling better. I still drive the truck to work sometimes so I just take the track bar on and off as needed.

So how 'bout those measurements....:thumbup:

What measurements are you wanting to compare? Let me know and I'll try to get them for you tonight once I get the kids to sleep.

I was looking for the height from center of the axle to bolt hole, and the vert sep b/t the bottom of the frame and the other bolt hole.

Does anybody have an RTI ramp? I could probably find some steep drop offs somewhere....I need to measure for a front dshaft. So that and 241 seals/bushings/flange swap will happen soon.

Center of axle to Bolt hole is about 6" and center of the same bolt hole to my crossmember is about 4.5" at ride height.

Millions and millions of leaf spring vehicles came out of the factory with track bars. The YJ Wrangler and the older leaf spring Super Duty trucks are the best examples. The need for the track bar on leaf springs comes from using softer and longer springs that provide a better ride, but they also allow a lot side-to-side movement which leads to sloppy handling. You don't see them on many older vehicle because they used stiffer leaf springs and there wasn't as much expectation to cruise 80 mph down the freeway in an old CJ-5 or Ford Highboy with two fingers on the steering wheel.

Anybody work at a warehouse where I could use a forklift to determine lengths for my front driveshaft?

Don't know if this helps you or not but here is how I have checked mine (also for checking tire clearance). I take all of the leaf springs out except the main leaf, then reassemble the axle to the main leaf. This way I can flex it with "little" force. I usually just use a floor jack to flex everything.

Thats cool, unfortunately the floor jack method doesnt work for me. I dont have enough jack to max the suspension out. Not really a bad thing.... :dancing:

I have a 1 ton cherry picker, but am a little nervous about using it for this.

Yeah, I was lucky that one of my jacks came with an extension you can put on in place of the typical pad so that I can get some additional height.

Have I seen this truck running around Anderson? Live on salem?

Yes :singingbev: Hopefully I wasnt doing anything stupid, lol.

My mom lives next to the fire house and I work in Anderson. I see it all the time

http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6khzvr65.jpg

So in order to make this work, I had to remove 5/16" of the splines from the back because the shaft has a non splined part. I used the drill press and a cylindrical grinding stone set at the proper height and went around till it was ground down fairly well. The first time I didnt take enough metal out and the assembly was moving back and forth. The second time I felt it slip over the non-splined part and the dust cover was in the right spot. I also ordered a 2011 Ram 2500 d-shaft from car-part for $85, which will be the base, since they have double cardon 1350 CV's with a flange that mates up well with the 208 flange. I may have to grind some down of the flange if its in 4-high. Looks like it might hit, but we'll see. I replaced the seal because it was leaking. I also put some caulking at the end of the splines just to make sure it doesnt leak anymore.