Driveshaft work
 

Looking for a local company (Fairfield Ohio or surrounding area) that will replace my CV's in my driveshafts I have. The ones I use to go to are out of business...

I have used Powertrain of Cincinnati before. They are in Sharonville off E. Kemper Rd.

I just had mine done at BT Shaft in Milford. Couple hundred bucks, but it looks to be done right, smooth to 80mph, and cheaper than a new shaft.

Went thru Titton in Utah to get replacements. Curtis is really good and I got Zach's and Mike's there. He cut me a deal and was willing to let me use my slips I already have since they are only a couples years old and matched his spline count. 2 CV's for $400. Shipped to my door.


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Titton is horrible. Replaced both shafts after 1.5 years. His long spline shafts wear fast at highway speeds. His CV joint on my rear came apart less than a year old. Only warranty with him is 30 days and you pay shipping on any repairs. I learned the hard way do it right the first time and get a woody. In fact tom woods was only $10 more than Curtis was. I'm in Dayton area and nobody around here does a decent job as I've tried all the local shops here too.
If you find a good local shop I say use them. Any repairs will be quick and no shipping involved.


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They're not too bad to do yourself honestly..... If you were ever interested in doing them yourself, Id be happy to show you how I've done them. Done a few for my brothers buggy, my rig and a couple friends beaters. Most of them have been well over 60mph with no noticeable vibrations.

That's what I had B&T replace the end on, my old Tom Woods. 13 years old, on two different rigs, daily driven and wheeled hard, finally wore out the DC joint.

I used tkh fab goes great work

How do you guys balance them when making a shaft?


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What is your run-out @?

If the driveshaft is already made, you can try drilling a small hole in the tube and pouring a cup of ATF and then welding shut. Dont use only, only ATF or hydraulic fluid.