Originally Posted by Waffle (Post 89511)

Just sharing what I've learned.

I'd add a flipped inline upper hose drain valve ahead of the thermostat so you can bleed the trapped air there. Even if there isn't air there now, there will be.

Now that you've increased the volume this much, you (may) need a larger recirculation tank to account for the additional thermal expansion. If your running a vented 2 seal cap that is. (Not talking about the red lever btw). Chances are you need at least a 2-3qt tank.

Only time will tell, but rear radiator is less efficient and might reveal a need for more fan, more or better rad, front ducting/shroud. Windrock mountain climb in July afternoon outa expose any issues real quick, lol. Even a little ducting or shroud work on the front side to trap the air around the fuel tank could make a big difference when moving. Hopefully ya don't need it though.

With rear rad you create a heat soak and rejection delay due to the increased volume, distance between rad and engine. Just something to keep in mind when timing efan temp switches with gauge readings and when stopping to cool after a big climb or beatdown. Ya might (idk yet) need to run a cooler T-stat and fan switch to take advantage of the cool side delay.

1.5" tube would help increase fluid velocity, increase radiator efficiency (laminar flow is bad), reduce delay and make packaging easier/cheaper. Just food for future thought since you already finished.

Over time, replace all that hose with tube or stainless flex hose. Nothing like a 200 degree bath or split hose to ruin your day.

Don't run propylene glycol antifreeze. Use ethylene glycol. Don't run 50/50 mix. Instead run something closer to 70/30 (70% water).

Keep in mind that all of your natural airflow pressure for cooling when moving or coasting downhill is now gone. It's all up to the fan and rad now.

I think you run a positive displacement water pump whereas I run an LS centrifugal so you might not have to care about the effects of pressure vs flow. But, yur lookin at an LS swap so ya will some day.

When running, check the volts at the battery then at the fan. Depending on voltage drop amount ya might need to up the wire gauge. Even a little voltage gained back could mean several hundred cfm gained back as well. Fairly certain Flexalite states their cfm claims at a full 13.5 volts btw.