302 Bellhousing and Misc Tech...
 

Yep, I'm worse than a girl choosing her clothes...
5.0 that I shouldn't pass up... but it's in front of an auto trans, and I dislike autos... so trying to figure out what I need to bolt it to my Ford NP435... to see if it's really worth it...



Here's what I think I'll need: tell me if I'm missing something

New Engine Mounts (this will suck given the girth of the previous version 3.0 AMC mounts)
Flywheel (157 tooth??)
Bellhousing
Clutch fork (unless AMC will work)
Clutch fork boot
External slave cyl
throwout bearing

And, I'm hoping that the DualFriction Centerforce clutch that I bought for the AMC will somehow work (at least I know that the spline count and hole diam. and outer diam. are the same...)



Anyone have any of this laying around?

Tony?

Need to know year. Older is externally balanced newer is internally balanced

I think it's an EFI 5.0 from 1989? LTD

edit: I'm gonna guess speed density and not MAF

Not sure if that's "Older" or "Newer" :D

Thanks Tony.

PS - I'd love to see a pic of your engine mounts Tony...

OH NOES!! my motor mounts!!!!

trust me, I'm not looking forward to grinding those *****es off...

but I'm DEFINITELY ready to put an end to Sarge's jokes. :D

I would love to show you some pics but my Jeep is an unofficial permanent landscape item at Terry's so I will see if he can email me some. They are simple. A bracket on the engine and a bracket on the frame with a bolt through them and a YJ spring bushing for the rubber.

Buy a new flywheel. $90 at KOI. 92 F-250 with a 302. This application gives you the larger clutch. I do have an externally balanced one in my garage. You can have it if you need it.

I glad I'm helping you get back in the woods on the left side. :D

I knew I shoulda called Terry first...




Already ordered the flywheel (I'm an impatient bastard that knows that I'll have to have the fricken thing refinished anyway)... Would that be a clutch larger than 11"?




Much appreciated Tony, and thanks again for actually adding valuable information here... guess I should really move this to tech huh?

I emailed him so hopefully I will have some pics. If not I will get them next week. 11 inch is the large clutch. The cars only have a 10 inch I think.
What about fuel delivery? I installed a tank from an injected JEep and the fuel pump is the same output as the Ford. Gotta go injected.

Fixed your quote thing...

I believe that the pump is with the engine... I'm pretty sure that I'll just get a Summit/RCI tank and most likely an aftermarket pump (if I even smell the feeling of "will quit on the trail" that old pump is outta there).

I'll learn more as I get into this further, but is there an output number that I need to hit with the fuel pump? (off the top of your head, if you don't know, that's cool)

Thanks man.

The fords will run with rail pressure between 37 and 42 psi normally. My ranger pump has the ability to go to 100 when the regulator dosen't work. Pretty much the same requirements as a TPI chevy. Friends of mine are using fuel cells with a hole cut in the top and a yj bolt in fuel sender/pump assembly so their gauge still works. Some have swapped the ford efi pump onto their jeep sender assembly.

Thanks Casey...

Just an FYI, but usually an OEM in-tank pump is way more reliable than an aftermarket inline style especially on an off-road rig.

I tend to share the same opinion.

Interesting.... any thoughts as to why that might be?

Fantastic info, keep it coming... please.

Parts that can be had locally are always the wiser choice. Auto Zones can be found easier than Summit!

In-tank pumps are submersed in the fuel and thus help keep it cooler and that is the optimum location to pump from (avoids having to suction any length at all), plus most OEM parts are way more reliable than aftermarket stuff (assuming it is used within the original design parameters). OEM parts get tested a LOT more than aftermarket stuff, I wouldn't doubt 100:1 or more.