Brake problem
 

I'm running a Vortec 4.3,T350 w/stock converter,stock yota case and a stock dana 300, with 5;71s in yota axles, 4 piston toyota calipers front and rear, and the lightweight brake line kit from speeway motors.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Lightw...arts,1993.html

I'm also using wilwoods dual master cyl kit
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/005-...mcbp/index.asp

It takes everything I have to stop it in high range and I can almost stop in single low, but with both cases in low, which is around 4;56 to 1, it crawls through the brakes, even at idle. I've bled the lines over and over and the pedal is solid, so I don't think thats the problem.

I'm wondering if the plastic brake lines aren't big enough to move enough fluid to move the calipers. Or is it just over geared and will never stop without going to neutral?

Could it be a bad booster? That can give you a stiff pedal and low brake pressure.

Its a manual set up(no booster) with a 7 to 1 pedal. I know they won't be super easy to stop, but i won't stop at all right now. That other link to what i have didn't work so try this one

http://www.wilwood.com/Products/005-...mcbp/index.asp

Caliper bleeders are up and not down right? Wonder if your lines are expanding and absorbing your pressure?

I was thinking the same as Truggy , are the lines bulging.

I pretty sure it isn't the lines expanding, but I'll check that tonight. I went back out after posting lastnight and found that the cylinder for the front doesn't move in as far as the one for the rear. I moved the bias bar as far as it would go to both sides and nothing changed. So I guess I'm pulling that one cylinder off to figure out why its not moving the same...

may not move the same distance, depending on how much line there is on front vs rear.

I've been running up and down the alley and they seem to be working a little better. Thinking/hoping the new pads and rotors just need to get set into each other...

Sounds like the whole setup is custom, so my first thought would be to verify that the pedal stroke is correct for the master cylinder stroke....basically meaning that full stroke of the pedal gives full stroke of the master cylinder.

The pedal is made for the master cyls. I messed with it again yesterday and they seemed even better. So hopefully everything just needed broke in