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-   -   lock rite popping (https://www.cincyoffroad.com/forumOLDVB3/showthread.php?t=4263)

yellowjacket 11-27-2009 08:48 AM

lock rite popping
 
i believe its my lock rite, anyway. new rebuild on the toyota axles. new 30 splines. drive flanges. locker is brand new. is acting like a old wore out one. under throttle, seems to me like the halves are passing each other, along with a pretty good clunk/ pop that i can feel. not constant, but is def getting worse. i thought i set this up right, but any thoughts or advice is welcome.

fabricator 11-27-2009 10:43 AM

i am sure thats the problem, is too much distance between
the flanges, i cant remember even if they come with spacers
or if it is a older one you can turn them around
i got sick and tired of it and replaced mine with a full locker
save yourself a bunch of time ,send it back and pay the xtra for a full locker

yellowjacket 11-27-2009 12:09 PM

cant remember if it came with spacers.think i do rmmber the instructions to reuse my original spacers, so that is what i did. searched on pirate and from what i gathered, maybe i can add spacers(???) got this new from scott armstrng on the board. sure seems to act like a wore out locker. thanx for your thoughts.
btw, does this in frward and reverse.

fabricator 11-27-2009 02:41 PM

if its the rear....weld it up
if scott bought it new..see if he can send it back

94Dodge Truggy 11-27-2009 03:17 PM

Sounds like a locker or ring and pinion. Damage will result if not already. Did you have any problems with the springs while assembling it? Lock-rites warranty usually is for defective materials not improper install. The 3rd member makes those axles awesome to work on compared to a dana axle.

MrShoeBoy 11-27-2009 07:41 PM

Sounds like the thrust washers were left out or not of the right thickness. If the gap between the halfs is too big it will act just like you describe and will eventually break the 4 little pins between the halfs. Tighten it up with some additional shims or send it back for a full case locker or spool. Cant remember the correct spacing but it should be in the directions or available online.

AARON

yellowjacket 11-27-2009 08:17 PM

used the spacers that were in the third already. before i put it in, everything seemed good. put my detroit in my dana 60 myself and the toy lock rite seems like a breeze compared to that. ill tear it apart tomorrow and post up what i find. im curious as anything!
the only variables that are diferent than typical are that: 1 this is in the front of a moon buggy with not much weight/traction up there, and 2, the ring and pinion are flipped and upside down.but i believe the design of locker dosent care about these things. i did say outloud on my last trip that my locker dident seem to be unlocking on the trail, and all my turns were 5 point or so. but i assumed it was cause i was so light in the front and pushing. im welded in the rear.

Hope Springs Hauler 11-27-2009 09:08 PM

The less weight you have, the less it will want to unlock.

gothodgie 11-27-2009 11:41 PM

from my experience using lock rites, back when they first came out,(for yota mini truck,fl40,fj55), the weight of the vehicle seemed to have a lot to do with how the lock rite acted...
i ran them front and rear and always had good luck with them. they definetly had better manners in the heavier landcruiser...
:beers:

yellowjacket 11-28-2009 12:56 PM

guess ill find out tonight. havin some people over again, but as soon as i usher them out the door ill tear that bad boy down and ill post pics if anythings pic worthy. if what hodgie says is true, ive got the worst possible application for a lock rite up front. might have to throw in a selectable.

krawlin85toy 11-29-2009 11:03 AM

had lock rights for years and I can say the front one never would unload real easy. had same problem but without the noise.make sure your tube is not bent it will cause all kinds of problems.

Flxratd 11-29-2009 01:02 PM

lock right was new in the box from trail gear with a vehicle i purchased so it did not come from me directly and i have no way of sending it back. lock rights work on torque so if the vehicle is very lite and does not cause the tires to bind up then i could see where it would disingage.

yellowjacket 12-13-2009 08:45 AM

update in case anyones curious.

tore it all down last night. locker is still in new condition. the dogs are still sharp, not rounded at all. threw a caliper on it and found my case half distance to be spot on. i had used the original thrust washers per insrtuctions. sooooo..... what was the problem i do not know. gears are good, locker good.

only thing i can think of is because it is so light in the front. if youve seen my rig pics youd understand.

weight est:
100 lbs wheels/tires x 4 400
200 lbs axles x 2 400
bare chassis weight 360
toy motor ????? 300?????
tranny, doubler case??????? 300????
links, heims, air shocks 200
radiator and coolant 200
seat, fuel tank, fuel, ect 140
misc ive forgotten??? 200

so 2500 estimating HIGH. and 900 is unsprung. so 1600 sprung weight, with a 40/60 f/r split would be 640 lbs weight on the front. and i kinda think im a few hundred less than my total weight estimate.
im thinking i just am too light for that front lock rite to work smoothly. my final verdict, but still open to you guy's thoughts.

fabricator 12-13-2009 09:49 AM

I am assuming that the springs
are still good. Tighten the space between the 2 lockrite pieces
or put the spiders back in and weld the crap out of it
would be my solution
In your case, with front dig and full hydro steer
my vote is for the latter

KennyTJ 12-13-2009 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flxratd (Post 30613)
lock right was new in the box from trail gear with a vehicle i purchased so it did not come from me directly and i have no way of sending it back. lock rights work on torque so if the vehicle is very lite and does not cause the tires to bind up then i could see where it would disingage.

Yep, the lunchbox lockers work on the R&P torque from the driveshaft. When you step on the gas you should lock even with the front end up and unloaded of most the vehicle weight.

yellowjacket 12-13-2009 04:04 PM

either way, theres no way im putting it back in. gonna put spiders in and buzz it good. i believe the locker to be ok from looking at it. just no way im goin ta go to the effort of reinstalling it if its goin ta do the same thing again.

Jeffd 01-01-2010 08:35 AM

I had one tha did the same thing yota axle in a zuk and the cupped piece was cracked and i guess it was flexing and letting it ratchet too much and it would pop like a cannon.I put an Aussie locker back in mine and it works great
Later Jeff

yellowjacket 01-01-2010 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffd (Post 32161)
I had one tha did the same thing yota axle in a zuk and the cupped piece was cracked and i guess it was flexing and letting it ratchet too much and it would pop like a cannon.I put an Aussie locker back in mine and it works great
Later Jeff

what cupped peice? the half that fits over the cross shaft? i am curious, but with the locker out, and no visable damage, i really cant condemm the locker. but it is frusterating to search for a ghost problem without a solution. i welded the heck out of the gears, and cant tell a difference turning compared to before and after on the trail. and it dossent pop anymore.
im going to throw this up for sale as a good locker, just diddent work for my aplication.
of course after this thread, no one will want to buy it.....:rolleyes:

Jeffd 01-01-2010 10:20 AM

The part called spacer in this link Hope this helps mine was cracked on both sides and it acted like yours from day one.
http://websearch.cs.com/cs/boomframe...ght-locker.htm
Later Jeff


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