Line Lock
 

Looking to install a line lock this winter on the jeep with my disc brake conversion. Looking to see what people are running, electric vs manual, brands, etc. Is there any negative to running a line lock?

My primary use will be as a parking brake, maybe the occasional dig but doubtful.

I have had great luck with hurst line locks on Drag race cars. Where do you install one on a 4x4?

I bought mine from Summit. Can't remember the brand, but is electric. Put mine right in the middle where the hard line and the braided line feeds the rear axle. Works great.

I have electric one on my jeep, but for park brake would recommend manual valve. Lot less chance of something bad happening like losing volts or ground which can happen!

I'm running a manual,bought it at The Off Road Center in Miamitown.I can't remember the brand.I found it in the rail buggy section of the store.

Works good...The only issue,I overheated the brakes one time,when the valve didn't fully release.Since then, I press the brake pedal fully to the floor and hold it for a few seconds while watching the knob raise up.

Nick

If you are going to go with a manual line lock. I have a brand new one with a billet bracket the you can bolt to the floor or any where. 40$ and it yours.

Rob

Ball valves... the only way.

I've been patiently waiting for that

A buddy of mine uses ball valves and it works great

I had them on my brakes, front and rear... but rob puts them on everything, hydration system, windshield washer fluid, blinker fluid, muffler juice, KY jelly, astroglide, etc....

They GREAT for adjusting tire pressure on the fly! Just need an adapter

I have a pair of the Jeg's brand electric line-locks (not sure which company makes them for Jeg's), one for the front and one for the rear, that I installed several years ago. Never had a bit of a problem with them. The main purpose was using them as a short term parking brake on the trail as I lost my emergency brake with the rear disc swap. They are definitely not meant for long-term parking (i.e. overnight or multiple days....I accidentally did this one time and drained the batteries when I tried to start it a couple days later). I have used it for probably an hour or so at a time while sitting on the trail.

http://www.red9fab.com/ImageFolio4_f...6buggy_852.jpg

http://www.red9fab.com/ImageFolio4_f...6buggy_880.jpg

Left is front, right is rear. I could lock them on, or lock them off, for doing front digs, rear digs, etc. I could also shut the rear or front valve half way and use them in a sort of proportioning valve. I went with these because I hate having more and more electrical crap to worry about. I could set them overnight and not worry, etc.

I think these valves can be had for less than $20 each...

from where?

I dont even recall now... Im sure it says it in my build thread somewhere....

$20 here...
http://www.sardesonracing.com/page%20047.htm

hahah, same part number from Summit for much much more... $53.88
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AFC-40199/

Mine came from AFCO... heres a couple pics of mine in the package
http://www.sigmamotorsports.com/Imag...6buggy_456.jpg
http://www.sigmamotorsports.com/Imag...6buggy_454.jpg

appletree auto... got mine off there website. its a pushbutton manual type hydraulic parking brake. someone on core pointed them to me.

but i do think ball valves like in those photos be the way to go.

Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk

I don't like the type that you press brake to get it to release. It can cause the cup seal in the master cylinder to be forced up the port hole cutting the seal. I had this problem with a new cnc master cylinder. They told me not to use those style line locks. I use a ball valve

good info to know:)

Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk

thanks for the links :beers: