oops!
 

what's best way to go from here? http://img.tapatalk.com/6b2e84b1-f4b7-dc68.jpg

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drill... heat and a easy out maybe ? lots of PB blaster :eek:... :D

good luck with that.... :beers:

it got crossthreaded in...with a impact....and I was unthreading it by hand when it snapped off. most of threads are still deep in knuckle

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cross threaded too ? :eek:
I don't know what to suggest then...:(

If it is cross threaded, drill it out and tap it to a larger thread size.

smarty pants :D...

:thumbup:

Looks like there is still enough bolt sticking out to weld a nut to. Take that washer off and find a nut that just fits over the existing bolt. Weld the inside of the nut to the bolt. Once it cools, you should be able to remove it with an impact.

This is probably your best bet.
It would be a pain in the ass trying to drill a grade 8 bolt.

GET TO IT!!!! :thumbup:

I was going to suggest the same thing. With some bolt sticking out after removing the washer it should be pretty easy to weld a nut onto it.

Cross thread good as lock tite!

Its' the time-honored way of making things stay put.

If the welded nut doesn't work (please use a new one) then head to the store and get a couple really good bits. Since it is cross-threaded it is locked in tight. I'd tack-weld around the bolt to seal it in then drill out the core. Tap. if it's cross-threaded it likely is not on the correct plane so some of this bolt will be left behind if you are drilling/tapping square to the mating surface.

I do not envy your position....but have been there. Last one I did I had a time-crunch, too late to get stuff from the store, and needed to drive to work the next morning. I used up a titanium cutter bit on my dremel carving the guts of the bolt out (horizontal control arm bolt) most of the way then it was weak enough, I drove the fragments out with a punch. There was no way to get even a 90deg drill in the space. Corrosion had welded the bolt to the bushing core which led to the bushing failing and a nice clunk from the control arm. I finished cleaning slivers from the threads with a pick, ran a chaser through it, then put the $20-something-dollars-each factory-shouldered bolts back in. One LONG, frustrating evening.

Flatten out the exposed/busted bolt shank and drill a hole down the center ..then weld a nut on top.. sometimes drilling out the center weakens the grip of stuck or cross-threaded bolt.

Or you could just leave the cap bolted in place and use it as a template and go right up to the next bolt size ..as you're sure the threads are FUBAR'ed.

You shouldn't have any trouble drilling a grade 8 bolt..

Pull the other 3 bolts out, take the cap off and that would leave u a good 1/4inch of the bolt sticking up. Enuff to weld to, get vicegrips on, small pipewrench on, ect

I was wondering if anyone else was going to suggest that. :beers:

if you go the vice grip route, grind two flat spots opposite of each other so the pliers can get a better grip.

Got it out yet?

lol...its gettin ugly:)..

nah but todays the day. I knew it wouldent thread out, got it flush and pilot hole thru it...gottta pick up some decent bits to finish it up tonight. looks like ill take jefk5's latter idea of putting cap back on as a template.

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Murphy wins again. As usual...there is a smooth path when things go wrong and a windy, bumpy, dirt trail and it just started raining buckets along with golfball-size hail on the direction our fixes lead to.... Someone kick that murphy guy in the jewels....