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Bad stuff
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The story. Pinion seal was leaking. Changed it and called the local Landcruiser guy for a torque spec on the pinion nut. Apparently 181ft/lb is too much. The pinion bearings are gone. The pinion got into the carrier and destroyed it to the point that it needs to be cut out. :banghead: |
Wow
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I don't understand you're username??? :shrug:
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dam that's ugly :eek:... are the axles ok ?
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Your first indication shoulda been 181 ft/lb... I would think 80-100 woulda done it
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Yes but no. I found out it goes off of rotational torque with the pinion nut not being torqued more than 253 ft/lb.
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If it's a crush sleeve setup we never use torque wrench.. Do it by feel never had a problem
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Wonder if you could put a 1/4 stick in there to help it fly out of there?
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i have always just hit them with the impact and was good...
:beers: |
Give me a shout if you need some help.
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Who knows. Maybe its coincidence. I was surprised at the massiveness of my shafts though. Thanks for the offer Andy. It should be back together Saturday.
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:hugegrin: |
toyota axles are larger than dana 60,s. by far !!!!
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Looks like your pinion was all like "nom nom nom" on your carrier:evilgrin:
Yeah... crush sleeve axles you NEVER... EVER go with any kind of "torque spec" for the nut(despite what any factory manual says). You tighten then nut until all play is out of the bearings(pinion not flopping around), then you torque it until there is sufficient preload... not sure about Toy axles but Dana axles normally go for about 10-20in-lbs or rotating torque and it's good. Now if you happen to go over the 200 whatever ft-lb "spec" or whatever it may be... and there is still play in the bearings... you have a bad crush sleeve and you gotta replace it because it's not deforming like it should. When it comes to replacing a seal on a crush sleeve axle, you use a chisel to mark the pinion nut and the pinion shaft in relation to each other... then remove and do what you gotta do, when you reinstall, you torque the nut down until the marks line up, and maybe 1-2mm more at the most. Also always use threadlock when reusing the pinion nut since they're technically one time use interference lock-nuts. Here are a few regear write-ups I've done, skip towards the end about pinion preload for the parts applicable to you. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/re...tj-d44-970997/ http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/r...xj-d44-992471/ Actually... read the whole thing and just substitute your Toyota specs for the ones I have listed... it looks like you'll be regearing it anyway:rolleyes: |
That's good stuff. Everything I have messed with has been Dana stuff. Tighten the pinion nut and done. Unfortunately now I know.
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[QUOTE=flatlander757;70116]Looks like your pinion was all like "nom nom nom" on your carrier:evilgrin:
Kinda like Cookie Monster style? :thumbup: |
Very much cookie monster style. I don't think a ΒΌ stick will solve this problem
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Wow Tony looks like you caught it just in time.Otherwise it might have took a 1/4 stick to get it apart..:D
Nick |
Had to cut the cross pin out with a torch. The rest of the job was mostly uneventful. Mostly.
Special thanks to Wrenchmonkey. He help me put this all back together. Took some video I will try to post up later. |
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