I have built more than a few motors, and several of them have been strokers. STUPID EASY they are to build
Theres lots of shiny bling parts out there and you can dump as much money into this thing as you want. Best way I think to get a crank is to order a "crank kit" from your friendly machine shop. Its nothing more than a factory crank with matched bearings, the trick is order a crank for a 4.2L motor, use a good set of 4.2L rods, and order the correct size 4.0L pistons for the bore you are running (.030 bore you need .030 pistons).
Now this combo is ALL stock parts and has some issues, first being they are all stock so forced induction isnt THAT good of an idea since the stock rods arent up to much boost past 8psi and the replacement pistons are cast aluminum. You can upgrade the rods and pistons to forged units that will take a beating AND fix the other problem with the stock setup.
Second issue you will have is Quench. This is pretty much a fancy word for the distance from piston to cylinder head. The quench for the stock stroker crank, rods, and pistons is something like .063 and it needs to be in the .035ish range. You can mill the block and gain some of that back, but you will really bump up the compression. I did the cheap way out and got a super thin head gasket and dont have any HUGE issues. I did have to adjust the crap out of my MAP sensor and do get a ping here and there when under heavy load and long steep hills. Do a little research and you can have a pretty peppy motor with better quench than if you just slapped it all together.
As for injectors, if this is going into a 93, toss in some #24lb Ford Motorsports injectors along with an adjustable MAP sensor and call the fuel done.
CAM!!! Most important thing here. It makes your motor do what it does. DONT SKIP ON THIS!!! If you are going to blow some money, do it here! You WANT roller rockers, you WANT a double roller timing chain, and I HIGHLY RECOMEND a cam from HESCO. Hesco is expensive as hell but they have high quality parts and know what they are doing. Also get the oil pump from Hesco.
Headwork is simple, portmatch the intake and head to the gasket and smooth out all the bumps in the head, radius the corners, and polish the crap out of the exhaust ports. Leave the intake ports slightly rough, not polished. Has something to do with air and fuel atomization....
I would recomend a MSD ignition box and good set of wires. The factory coil is big enough to handle the MDS box and run Champion Copper truck plugs at a gap of .045. I have YET to have a problem in 3 years with this ignition setup and wouldnt change it if I had to do it again.
Get a good intake, and nice header, manderal bent 2.5" downpipe and exhaust out with your choice of muffler.
AARON