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sarge · 04-21-2010, 10:14 PM

http://www.awdirect.com/easy-glide-p...ngle-gear/pto/

Ok the price went up a little bit since I did the wrangler .

unbolt the selector fork assy.( CAD ) on the axle , make sure to unplug vac. and electric lines and put the assy. on the work bench.

Pry open the vac. canister that the vac. line plug into and cut out the bladder and then plug the vac. line ports. put vac. canister back together.

find a good spot on the driver side of the CAD housing and drill a hole through the aluminum housing to the inside making sure you can continue to drill into the CAD fork asstraight as possible and as close to the Forks slide shaft. Make hole just big enough for the threaded end of the PTO cable to go through. Now counter sink the outside hole to the size of the outer cable.

Find a good spot on the inside of the rig to mount the pull handle , make sure you pick a spot that can handle a good tug with out bending or breaking .

Route you cable through the fire wall and down to the CAD unit with the least tight bends as possible.

Put a dab of RTV on the hole in the CAD housing and run the cable through and into the fork, bolt the cable to the fork using lock tight. bolt CAD housing back to axle.

When you get the cable you get a cable clamp and nut and bolt. I welded the bolt to the axle tube so I could clamp the cable on on the back side of the axle tube out of harms way and straight in line with were the cable enters the CAD housing .

This is the readers digest version and with out any pictures , but the info is out there if you search a little. I have not found a good write up using this cable.

I had the cheaper PTO/ Throttle cable however I could not keep the cable from pulling out of the fork after about a day of wheeling. It became a real pain in the arse ...... the extra few buck for the threaded end sealed cable was well worth it and I never had a problem with mine once I switched.

04-21-2010, 10:14 PM	#33
sarge Pure Bacon Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Trenton, Oh Posts: 1,098	http://www.awdirect.com/easy-glide-p...ngle-gear/pto/ Ok the price went up a little bit since I did the wrangler . unbolt the selector fork assy.( CAD ) on the axle , make sure to unplug vac. and electric lines and put the assy. on the work bench. Pry open the vac. canister that the vac. line plug into and cut out the bladder and then plug the vac. line ports. put vac. canister back together. find a good spot on the driver side of the CAD housing and drill a hole through the aluminum housing to the inside making sure you can continue to drill into the CAD fork asstraight as possible and as close to the Forks slide shaft. Make hole just big enough for the threaded end of the PTO cable to go through. Now counter sink the outside hole to the size of the outer cable. Find a good spot on the inside of the rig to mount the pull handle , make sure you pick a spot that can handle a good tug with out bending or breaking . Route you cable through the fire wall and down to the CAD unit with the least tight bends as possible. Put a dab of RTV on the hole in the CAD housing and run the cable through and into the fork, bolt the cable to the fork using lock tight. bolt CAD housing back to axle. When you get the cable you get a cable clamp and nut and bolt. I welded the bolt to the axle tube so I could clamp the cable on on the back side of the axle tube out of harms way and straight in line with were the cable enters the CAD housing . This is the readers digest version and with out any pictures , but the info is out there if you search a little. I have not found a good write up using this cable. I had the cheaper PTO/ Throttle cable however I could not keep the cable from pulling out of the fork after about a day of wheeling. It became a real pain in the arse ...... the extra few buck for the threaded end sealed cable was well worth it and I never had a problem with mine once I switched.