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Same advice as above for the front. Some sort of 35-spline stubs, at least Spicer joints, and make sure it has non-necked inner shafts at the minimum. On my Chevy version I have 35-spline Yukon stubs, Spicers, and new Spicer inners (bought years ago before any reasonably priced chromo's), with drive flanges. Also run a Lock-right with stock 4.10 gears. Never had a problem in the current condition after many years under a 6k truck with 40" Swampers, but I don't have a lot of power.
78Buford with his Ford version ran Spicer 35-spline shafts and joints with flanges for years. He did break a stub after several years of abuse under a 7k truck with 42's and a big-block, but the spindle bearing was also shot and had dug a groove in the shaft right where it broke. He didn't have as much luck with the Lock-right and now has a Detroit. Also broke one of the stock knuckles (this era Ford is known to have weaker knuckles) so he now has Cranes. With Yukon shafts and some sort of high-zoot u-joints, Detroit, and Crane knuckles he has beat on it for years without issues.
Not sure if I would even bother with the rear 60. You can verify but the smaller 30-spline axle versions are pretty common and it takes a bunch of work to convert to 35-spline (but you might be lucky). I would recommend just holding out for a 14-bolt or D70. Neither is hard to find or expensive.
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