Suspension link questions

[JeffK5]

A question for the people that have fabed there own link arms , how would or did you reduce the size of the tube at the joint?

I recieved my RE 3795 cart. joints today and found my first snag, I was told the width of the joint was 1.875 and they turned out to be 1.500..:mad:

I know I could send them back but I like there size and beef and would really like to make them work with my 2.0x.500 DOM link material.

I had considered flattening the tube to have room for a 100% weld but I don't want to drastically weaken it around the crushed area.

Or option two I could slab mill the sides of the tube and add 2 flats to reduce the width where it meets the joint.

The joints will be tig welded to the links so I can control the heat when it gets close to the threaded portion of the body.

Any opinions?

Jeff

[KargoMaster]

Wow, quite a difference between 1.5 and 1.875... "flatten the tube.." .5" wall... Now that is a machine that I don't EVER want to face the business end of...

You saw CW's.. turned down all the way around... I am considering the 2 flats for the non-adjustable ends of mine...

CW, what is your turned dimension?

[JeffK5]

Yep we have a couple hyd. presses that generate 625,000 lbs. of force, If I had the notion I could pinch 2.0x.5 in half !


I think Mike said they where turned down like .187/.250 a side ?


I'm open to ideas

I'm planning on threading the rear of the top links 1.25/12 for my Jimmy Joints.

[KargoMaster]

Now you got me thinking... You're going to just thread the 1.25/12 threaded end directly into the (obviously machined with threads) end of the tube?

I might consider that for the 2"x.5" lowers, but with 1.75"/.375" uppers I feel like I would want a threaded tube adapter... (1/4" of meat just not enough... but 3/8" of meat is???)

Am I thinking about this right?

[JeffK5]

Are you still talking about putting 1.25/12 in a 1.75 o.d tube? Because it's no different if you thread the tube direct or bore for a pre-machined tube adapter?

That's why I like the 2.0x.5, just bore the tube out to minor dia. of the 1.25/12 and chase a thread or run a tap in.

To be honest both .250 and .375 wall would be more than strong enough IMO.

Let me know I might be able to set you up with a slab and tap job!;)

[KargoMaster]

Originally Posted by JeffK5

To be honest both .250 and .375 wall would be more than strong enough IMO.

Sorry Jeff, I wasn't real clear with that .25/.375 comment I made... I was actually talking about the "nominal" dimensions around the bored/threaded hole in the end of the tube... (ignoring thread pitch for just a minute)

1.25" threaded "joint" in a 2" od tube gives me (about) 3/8" of the .5" wall left.

1.25" threaded "joint" in a 1.75" od tube gives me (about) 1/4" of the .375" wall left.


Sorry for the detour...


BTW, 1.25" shank Johnny Joints are 2 months out...