Marker Lights

[fmlewis]

Hey yall.

I am building a CJ7 with a fiberglass tub/body. I purchased a new ezwire wiring harness and I am attempting to get my marker lights to work. i.e. - when the headlights are turned on my tailights and turn signals should be turned on slightly dim from normal operation.

I have jumpered a 12V signal to the circuit and the lights light up so I know the wiring is correct. The issue with this is that they are too bright when I use the brake pedal they do not signal that I am braking.

When I plug in my headlight switch and pull the knob the markers do not turn on only the headlights do.

Any ideas?

I have tried 2 new headlight switches and still no luck with markers.

The interesting thing I found was that there is no continuity between the power/supply terminal and the marker light terminal on the headlight switch.

Help!!!

[hotrod]

as far as the switch i have one like that on my hotrod and the front markers wont work when headlights are on i just live with it to be honest but on the lights do you have a good ground? Sounds like the lights are back feeding through the tail lights

[fmlewis]

I do have a good ground. When I press the brake pedal the brake lights come on.

I am not totally concerned about the front markers, its more the rear marker lights. When my headlights are on the brake lights should also be on but not as bright so that when I press the brake pedal they are brighter.

I am at a loss since my headlight switch does not have continuity between the power terminal and marker light terminal. When I put a jumper wire between those two terminals the lights front and rear light up but are to bright (i.e. - the brake lights do not work properly).

I have tried x5 different switches and no luck. 3 old ones and 2new ones. One from NAPA and one from Autozone. From an electrical continuity standpoint they all are the same.

Any other ideas? I hoping to call EZ Wire today to see what help they can offer.

[TomH]

Lights and wiring are pretty simple...

...as long as you have a test lead. (Lamp or meter, doesn't really matter.)


To make sure we're talking about the same thing...

• Tail lamps also known as S/T/T lamps (Stop/Tail/Turn)
• Marker lamps

Front turn signals and tail lamps have three leads:

1. Common Ground (12V-)
2. Tail (Dim) (12V+)
3. Stop/Turn (Bright) (12V+)

Markers have two leads:

1. Ground (12V-)
2. Power (12V+)

Your light switch probably has at least 4-5 connectors

1. Headlamp (12V+) - Typically goes to the bright/dim switch.
2. Tail lamp (12V+)
3. Park (Marker) Lamp (12V+) (Some switches simply tie the park/tail off the same lead.)
4. Overhead/Courtesy Lamp (Variable Rheostat+)
5. Power In (Feed) (12V+)

With 12+ to the switch, turn it on and see what leads are hot as you cycle through the various positions. Some headlamp switches have "dedicated" feeds for the headlamp circuit.

With the switch "hot" and in the park position, you ought to be able to find the correct leads at the front/back for your tail lamps and markers. Both LEDs and incandescent bulbs are only ON/OFF, so as long as you have the correct lead from the lamp tied to the harness, you'll be golden.

It sounds like you have your stop/tail leads crossed if you're getting a bright tail lamp with minimal change for brake/turn. Probably same deal in front on turn/marker. Get the rear S/T/T lamps sorted properly THEN connect the markers.

Good luck.