Full Hydro Questions and Advice

4wdOwnage · 05-04-2011, 11:51 PM

I currently have a 8v in my tracker and have ran full hydro with a single ended 8" 1.75" bore ram for a couple years now with 31" skinny tractors with no issues. I have a PSC TC series 1650psi 4.5gpm pump and a 4.8ci (i'm guessing on the orbital) all of which before were on a sami front axle which was using heims on the drag link with a simple tab and a simple ram mount on the top of the axle above the diff and had 1 finger steering. I then put 2 trips on the 35" tractor tires I have now and didn't really notice any steering issues.

Recently I swapped all of that over the the toyota axle I bought which already had the TG hi-steer setup with FJ80 ends and I used the tab on top of the axle as well as the one on the drag link to mount my ram to. In the process I had the orbital rebuilt because it leaked, had the cylinder rebuilt, as well as the PSC pump and now first trip out in the woods the steering is horrible unless i'm moving or have a good amount of rpm's the steering simply won't move as if it's in a bind. I have a 5" pulley on it and am not sure what to swap out next to remedy the problem is it really going to be noticable going down to the 4.5" recommended pulley or is my money better spent just purchasing a larger diameter bore ram? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

blazerbrad · 05-05-2011, 08:57 AM

So you have the same ram, orbital, and pump as before but rebuilt? It worked fine before but now does not, correct?

The obvious thing is to make sure all the air is out of the system as air pockets will cause the condition you mentioned. The next things I would look at is the 'yota front axle and steering setup since that is the thing that has changed (making the assumption that the steering parts were rebuilt correctly). Is there any binding on the knuckles or connections to the ram?

What type of leverage do the steering arms (how far do they stick out from the center line of the tires) on the 'yota axle provide as compared to the previous axle?

If nothing obvious in the above I would start looking at the components you had rebuilt and make sure they are correct. Especially make sure the pressure relief valve on the pump isn't stuck.

twiztedzuki · 05-05-2011, 08:21 PM

i got piece of dirt in line and wouldnt steer for **** and burnt psc pump up!!!

riegel · 05-06-2011, 12:20 PM

x2 on the air in the lines.

4wdOwnage · 05-06-2011, 03:15 PM

I'm going to go ahead and ditch the FJ80 ball ends and TG drag link and go bak to heims like I had before on a piece of .250 wall DOM and move ram mount on the axle from working on a horizontal axis to on a vertical one which is how the old one was done. Is there any one place that's better than another to bleed air out of the system on the low pressure side? And does anyone have any pictures of their single ended ram setup.

This is how it used to be setup and worked fine even with the 35's for the 2 trips they were on the sami axle

Nuts · 05-07-2011, 09:56 AM

To bleed my double sided cyl I jacked up the front till the tires were off the ground then without the motor running I turned the wheels back and forth almost from lock to lock about a million times. Then let it sit for awhile and repeated. Probably did that 4 times before i started the motor and did the same process again.

05-04-2011, 11:51 PM	#1
4wdOwnage Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Greenville, Ohio Posts: 22	Full Hydro Questions and Advice I currently have a 8v in my tracker and have ran full hydro with a single ended 8" 1.75" bore ram for a couple years now with 31" skinny tractors with no issues. I have a PSC TC series 1650psi 4.5gpm pump and a 4.8ci (i'm guessing on the orbital) all of which before were on a sami front axle which was using heims on the drag link with a simple tab and a simple ram mount on the top of the axle above the diff and had 1 finger steering. I then put 2 trips on the 35" tractor tires I have now and didn't really notice any steering issues. Recently I swapped all of that over the the toyota axle I bought which already had the TG hi-steer setup with FJ80 ends and I used the tab on top of the axle as well as the one on the drag link to mount my ram to. In the process I had the orbital rebuilt because it leaked, had the cylinder rebuilt, as well as the PSC pump and now first trip out in the woods the steering is horrible unless i'm moving or have a good amount of rpm's the steering simply won't move as if it's in a bind. I have a 5" pulley on it and am not sure what to swap out next to remedy the problem is it really going to be noticable going down to the 4.5" recommended pulley or is my money better spent just purchasing a larger diameter bore ram? Any help would be greatly appreciated. __________________ 91 Geota Exo'd on 35" Tractors etc. 06 Rhino 660 SE Courageous Offroad Ministries http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Cou...27565957345163

05-05-2011, 08:21 PM	#3
twiztedzuki Join Date: May 2008 Location: Waverly ohio Posts: 586	i got piece of dirt in line and wouldnt steer for **** and burnt psc pump up!!! __________________ SMITH BUILT PERIOD

05-06-2011, 03:15 PM	#5
4wdOwnage Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Greenville, Ohio Posts: 22	I'm going to go ahead and ditch the FJ80 ball ends and TG drag link and go bak to heims like I had before on a piece of .250 wall DOM and move ram mount on the axle from working on a horizontal axis to on a vertical one which is how the old one was done. Is there any one place that's better than another to bleed air out of the system on the low pressure side? And does anyone have any pictures of their single ended ram setup. This is how it used to be setup and worked fine even with the 35's for the 2 trips they were on the sami axle __________________ 91 Geota Exo'd on 35" Tractors etc. 06 Rhino 660 SE Courageous Offroad Ministries http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Cou...27565957345163

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05-05-2011, 08:57 AM	#2
blazerbrad - CORE Member - Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 831 Images: 6	So you have the same ram, orbital, and pump as before but rebuilt? It worked fine before but now does not, correct? The obvious thing is to make sure all the air is out of the system as air pockets will cause the condition you mentioned. The next things I would look at is the 'yota front axle and steering setup since that is the thing that has changed (making the assumption that the steering parts were rebuilt correctly). Is there any binding on the knuckles or connections to the ram? What type of leverage do the steering arms (how far do they stick out from the center line of the tires) on the 'yota axle provide as compared to the previous axle? If nothing obvious in the above I would start looking at the components you had rebuilt and make sure they are correct. Especially make sure the pressure relief valve on the pump isn't stuck.

05-06-2011, 12:20 PM	#4
riegel hellbilly fab Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: circleville ohio Posts: 34	x2 on the air in the lines.

05-07-2011, 09:56 AM	#6
Nuts Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: middletown,oh Posts: 508	To bleed my double sided cyl I jacked up the front till the tires were off the ground then without the motor running I turned the wheels back and forth almost from lock to lock about a million times. Then let it sit for awhile and repeated. Probably did that 4 times before i started the motor and did the same process again.