"THE HEEP" Buildup (SOA, 3/4 axles, Stak, Hi-steer)

[JeepHD]

Heep of money + Heep of time + Heep of parts = Heep of fun

Build consists of the following:

- Front Axle -Swap out D30 aussie locked for a HP D44 with OX locker - Clean up, install High steer, install 1350 Yoke, , new ball joints, Chromoly shafts w/superjoints.
- Rear Axle - Swap out Ford 8.8 open for a D60 with Detroit - Cleaned up and convert to disc brakes, Install 1350 Yoke
- Tires and Rims - H1 rims and set of 37-38 inch tires, looking for TSL SX, Boggers, or IROKs
-Transfer Case - Swap out the NP231 for Stak4x4 4.3:1 case
- Suspension - Swap out the 3.5 lift springs for a SOA setup, for a Stock YJ & Superlift replacement hybrid pack.
- Modify tub and fenders to to accept TJ flares to add more clearance for larger tires

Picture as purchased in early 2006


Picture after first build, Spring 2006


Picture as of 12/11/07 progress (trying to figure out what tire size to go with)



Buildup Suggestions Thread - http://www.cincyoffroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1027

[94Dodge Truggy]

Looks improved! 37" irocs is what I would run.:)

[JeepHD]

Trying to get an idea on tire size. Pictured are 36x12.5x16.5 hummer tires and 37x12.50x16.5 Iroks that were borrowed from friend








TSLs arrived

[JeepHD]

Pics of the 2 speed Stak Transfer case. Transfer case was ordered with:
- Drivers side drop
- 4.3:1 gears
- 1350 front yoke
- 1350 rear flange
- Vehicle Speed Sensor
- Pinion brake
www.stak4x4.com



NV3550 that was rebuilt a couple years ago, but has less than 100 miles on it.


Stak Test fitted to NV3550
Out of curiosity I weighed these. Stak weighed in at 130 lbs, NV3550 with bellhousing weighed in at 105 lbs.


Transmission and Stak are installed except for the shifters for the Stak. Everything went fairly well after I figured out how I wanted it clocked. Case is big and has eliminated my plans to run a flat skid for now.
Stak came in missing the calipers for the pinion brake, so I need to call on that today

Installed Stak

[JeepHD]

High Pinon Dana 44 (HPD44) front out of a 1978-1979 Ford F-250.

Stock factory perches are used, but I ground hole for spring pin about a 1/2 inch toward center on both sides.

Specs an Parts Used:
OX locker
4.10 gears
Chromoly shafts & Superjoints from Yukon Gear - www.machinewave.com
New Spicer ball joints - www.shakerbuilt.com
High steer - www.kozoffroad.com
1 ton TREs - www.kozoffroad.com
DOM tubing for tie rod and drag link
1350 Yoke - http://www.highangledriveline.com/
U-bolts used - (3) 5/8 x 2 3/4 x 10 (1) 5/8 x 3 1/4 x 10 - www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
u-bolt plates - www.ruffstuffspecialties.com



I need to grind part of the perch to fit ubolts on correctly as you can see in pics. It is just mocked up and u-bolts just finger tight.


Added a couple more pics 2/17/08

[JeepHD]

D60 out of a 1978-1979 Ford F-250 or F-350

This was a pretty easy swap. Stock perches need to be ground off and new ones welded on to fit Jeep application. Pinion angle needs to be set according to angle of transfer case and type of driveshaft running.

Parts Used:
U-bolts - (4) 5/8 x 3 1/4 x 10 www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
U-bolt plates - www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
Spring Perches - www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
Disc brake brackets - www.greatlakeoffrad.com
1350 Yoke - www.shakerbuilt.com
Disc brakes - 1975 Chevy 3/4 ton calipers and rotors
New Seals

[JeepHD]

With the axle swap I am converting to a Spring Over Axle (SOA) setup.

Rear - I used two main leafs from a superlift 1.5" replacement spring pack with the smaller leafs from the stock springs



Front - I used stock YJ packs but I took a main leaf from another pack and cut the eyes off and added it below the main leaf

[JeepHD]

Got the front axle about 90% done. Need to route brake lines and burn on some shock mounts. I mounted it forward 2 inches. Also got the tires mounted. Only problems I ran into was that the bleeder screws are too long and hit the rim. Also had to grind the bolt that holds the brake clip on. Any ideas on the bleeder screw? I am going to try to get a shorter one, otherwise I will just have to grind off the end of the ones I have.

Here is some pics. Also, I am adding some pics of the high steer and front axle in previous posts.

[JeepHD]

Height to top of Rollbar with 30psi in tires - 81 inches

Bottom of differential to ground - 12 inches

Front suspension travel - 12 inches

Total wheelbase - 97 inches (Front forward 2 inches, rear back 1 inch)

[94Dodge Truggy]

Man that looks really good!

[mckeddie]

do your flanges stick out past the wheel? i'd be afraid of hitting them on rocks?

[JeepHD]

Originally Posted by 94Dodge Truggy

Man that looks really good!

Thanks

Originally Posted by mckeddie

do your flanges stick out past the wheel? i'd be afraid of hitting them on rocks?

I am concerned about that but plan on running as is for now. Flanges are about even with the outer lip of the rim. Offset an inch or so from th outer part the tire. May eventually change the backspacing on the rims. I would also like a little more width for stability.

[carwash]

ran hummer wheels at stock width with flanges sticking out past for years... no issues. jeff smith's are out past as well as Jim Smith's i believe... dont' worry about it, that stuff is strong. The rear can take the beating, the front can take even more if you go with drive flanges instead of lockouts.

[JeepHD]

Making some good progress lately. Stak shifters are hooked up, Slid rear axle back an inch. and lots of little things.

Info for anyone using H1 Rims on the HPD44 and I would guess the HPD60, there is some clearance issues. The original bleeder valves were too long, I had to find some shorter ones and replace them. Also the bolt that holds the clip in place for the caliper at the bottom of the caliper braket had to be ground shorter, as it rubbed the rim. After grinding I have clearance but only an 1/8 inch or less. I just hope a small rock or won't get jammed in there and cause problems. I really like how the H1 completely surrounds and protects the brakes though!

Should have my steering tie rods and longer brake lines this week to put on over the weekend. Should be down to driveshafts, TJ Flares and a few other odds and ends after the weekend. Ordering the driveshafts today from High Angle. I think I will end up with 1350s all around with a 1410 on the front of the case to be able to handle the 20 degree running angle.

Carwash and Truggy, what gear oil are you running in the stak? All I could find in their paperwork was GL-5 or better. What would you suggest?

I finally see the light at the end of the tunnel! Test run will be March 21&22 if I can't get a local test run in before.

[JeepHD]

Pics from two weeks ago. Not really any action shots, but proof I was out for the trial run.





Ordering joints and bushing for antiwrap bars this week.

[94Dodge Truggy]

Where did you wheel?

[JeepHD]

Originally Posted by 94Dodge Truggy

Where did you wheel?

Private land.

[JeepHD]

Well I yanked the stock springs after bending one on basically nothing. I picked up 2 inch BDS lift springs. I chose them due to the full military wrap, lifetime warranty, no shipping since I travel by their distribution center monthly, and they were cheaper than most. Also finished my anti-warp on the rear and mounted the stak temporarily.

My write and pics on the antiwrap are here:
http://buckeyejeepers.forumz.cc/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=44

With the new springs and anti wrap, it performed much better. After visiting redbird and haspin over the weekend the only thing I do not like is the whole jeep tends to hop when I break traction. Any ideas what is causing this. I know my rear shock need changed because they don't do much due to the angle. The only other thing I could think of was the low pressure in the 38s, around 5 psi. Any thoughts.

[carwash]

Hopping when breaking traction would probably be due to the lack of shock stroke to slow down the hop.