Suspension link questions

JeffK5 · 03-16-2007, 09:09 PM

A question for the people that have fabed there own link arms , how would or did you reduce the size of the tube at the joint?

I recieved my RE 3795 cart. joints today and found my first snag, I was told the width of the joint was 1.875 and they turned out to be 1.500..:mad:

I know I could send them back but I like there size and beef and would really like to make them work with my 2.0x.500 DOM link material.

I had considered flattening the tube to have room for a 100% weld but I don't want to drastically weaken it around the crushed area.

Or option two I could slab mill the sides of the tube and add 2 flats to reduce the width where it meets the joint.

The joints will be tig welded to the links so I can control the heat when it gets close to the threaded portion of the body.

Any opinions?

Jeff

KargoMaster · 03-16-2007, 09:32 PM

Wow, quite a difference between 1.5 and 1.875... "flatten the tube.." .5" wall... Now that is a machine that I don't EVER want to face the business end of...

You saw CW's.. turned down all the way around... I am considering the 2 flats for the non-adjustable ends of mine...

CW, what is your turned dimension?

JeffK5 · 03-16-2007, 10:14 PM

Yep we have a couple hyd. presses that generate 625,000 lbs. of force, If I had the notion I could pinch 2.0x.5 in half !

I think Mike said they where turned down like .187/.250 a side ?

I'm open to ideas

I'm planning on threading the rear of the top links 1.25/12 for my Jimmy Joints.

KargoMaster · 03-16-2007, 10:47 PM

Now you got me thinking... You're going to just thread the 1.25/12 threaded end directly into the (obviously machined with threads) end of the tube?

I might consider that for the 2"x.5" lowers, but with 1.75"/.375" uppers I feel like I would want a threaded tube adapter... (1/4" of meat just not enough... but 3/8" of meat is???)

Am I thinking about this right?

JeffK5 · 03-16-2007, 11:17 PM

Are you still talking about putting 1.25/12 in a 1.75 o.d tube? Because it's no different if you thread the tube direct or bore for a pre-machined tube adapter?

That's why I like the 2.0x.5, just bore the tube out to minor dia. of the 1.25/12 and chase a thread or run a tap in.

To be honest both .250 and .375 wall would be more than strong enough IMO.

Let me know I might be able to set you up with a slab and tap job!;)

KargoMaster · 03-17-2007, 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeffK5

To be honest both .250 and .375 wall would be more than strong enough IMO.

Sorry Jeff, I wasn't real clear with that .25/.375 comment I made... I was actually talking about the "nominal" dimensions around the bored/threaded hole in the end of the tube... (ignoring thread pitch for just a minute)

1.25" threaded "joint" in a 2" od tube gives me (about) 3/8" of the .5" wall left.

1.25" threaded "joint" in a 1.75" od tube gives me (about) 1/4" of the .375" wall left.

Sorry for the detour...

BTW, 1.25" shank Johnny Joints are 2 months out...

03-16-2007, 09:09 PM	#1
JeffK5 Tiny Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Colerain Posts: 798	Suspension link questions A question for the people that have fabed there own link arms , how would or did you reduce the size of the tube at the joint? I recieved my RE 3795 cart. joints today and found my first snag, I was told the width of the joint was 1.875 and they turned out to be 1.500..:mad: I know I could send them back but I like there size and beef and would really like to make them work with my 2.0x.500 DOM link material. I had considered flattening the tube to have room for a 100% weld but I don't want to drastically weaken it around the crushed area. Or option two I could slab mill the sides of the tube and add 2 flats to reduce the width where it meets the joint. The joints will be tig welded to the links so I can control the heat when it gets close to the threaded portion of the body. Any opinions? Jeff

03-16-2007, 09:32 PM	#2
KargoMaster Cleaning off the rust... Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 1,009	Wow, quite a difference between 1.5 and 1.875... "flatten the tube.." .5" wall... Now *that* is a machine that I don't EVER want to face the business end of... You saw CW's.. turned down all the way around... I am considering the 2 flats for the non-adjustable ends of mine... CW, what is your turned dimension? __________________ brad 5.0L \| 435 \| 203 \| 300 \| 4.10 \| 39.5 Buildup BACK underway...

03-16-2007, 10:14 PM	#3
JeffK5 Tiny Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Colerain Posts: 798	Yep we have a couple hyd. presses that generate 625,000 lbs. of force, If I had the notion I could pinch 2.0x.5 in half ! I think Mike said they where turned down like .187/.250 a side ? I'm open to ideas I'm planning on threading the rear of the top links 1.25/12 for my Jimmy Joints. Last edited by JeffK5; 03-16-2007 at 10:19 PM.

03-16-2007, 10:47 PM	#4
KargoMaster Cleaning off the rust... Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 1,009	Now you got me thinking... You're going to just thread the 1.25/12 threaded end directly into the (obviously machined with threads) end of the tube? I might consider that for the 2"x.5" lowers, but with 1.75"/.375" uppers I feel like I would want a threaded tube adapter... (1/4" of meat just not enough... but 3/8" of meat is???) Am I thinking about this right? __________________ brad 5.0L \| 435 \| 203 \| 300 \| 4.10 \| 39.5 Buildup BACK underway...

03-16-2007, 11:17 PM	#5
JeffK5 Tiny Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Colerain Posts: 798	Are you still talking about putting 1.25/12 in a 1.75 o.d tube? Because it's no different if you thread the tube direct or bore for a pre-machined tube adapter? That's why I like the 2.0x.5, just bore the tube out to minor dia. of the 1.25/12 and chase a thread or run a tap in. To be honest both .250 and .375 wall would be more than strong enough IMO. Let me know I might be able to set you up with a slab and tap job!;) Last edited by JeffK5; 03-16-2007 at 11:18 PM. Reason: I can't spell