Toyota free 5th stud upgrade

fabricator · 12-15-2009, 08:24 AM

Hell, I just stole the whole thread to add to the tech forum

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...782&highlight=

knuckle stud kit

hardened and longer studs would be nice but,
can't seem to find them, so i did what some have allready been doing
not hard to do, just some time
hope this holds a while
been breaking studs and ripping the threads out
so i copied the DSI thread
the chunk of steel is 1"x1.5"
the bolt is 2"x1/2-20 grade 8
welded the bolt on the inside of the knuckle

fabricator · 12-15-2009, 08:25 AM

i have hydro assist, and i keep the bolts tight
last time out i sheared 2 bolts and pulled the other 2 out
the 5th bolt has a 1/2-20 grade 8 nut with a lockwasher
no cone washer. the chunk of steel has been faced a little with a mill so the nut would sit flat on the chunk

================================================== ========

how did you keep the stud parallel to the other 4?

================================================== ========

I took the studs out
of the bottom, and clamped the knuckle
to the drill press table
then drilled.
was easy

yellowjacket · 12-16-2009, 12:52 PM

sweet. im glad i asked.thanx for reviving it on pbb, too. ill be doing this upgrade this week!

TheJeepGuy · 12-16-2009, 04:29 PM

This modification is an absolute must! One other way of doing it is to use 1/4inch angle iron and grind/mill the top of the knuckle so the angle iron lays flat and square with either your highsteer arm or with your orignal steer arm when you weld it.Also,you'll see two "bumps" on the inside of the knuckle about where the bolt head will be located on the inside,make sure you drill the hole between these two"bumps" so the bolt head will seat between them.

yellowjacket · 12-19-2009, 02:09 PM

finished mine up last night.
a couple thoughts: i used 1/4 angle. clamped the bottom when drilling like suggested. so hole was parallel. but when arms on and torqed, and then fifth bolt torqed, the fifth is not parallel, but top of bolt is angled out. im sure torqing it down did this. unsure if it will be a problem. as far as tacking the bolt head, lets just say its not my best weld. did it with the knuckle and arm installed, very little room to fit a mig gun.

so is the fifth stud stronger because it keeps the arm pulled down and resistant to studs loosening, or the side to side leverage strength upgrade? or both? with my fifth torqed down, i get the impression its actually trying to pull up on the inside 2 studs. even tough the angle iron was flat on knuckle before welding. got arp's but still concerned......

Jeffd · 12-19-2009, 06:43 PM

What happens when you have to replace trunion bearings and have to change out shems I know it still unbolts but if you use less shems then the other four won`t tighten down correctly if you use more shems then the welded on piece is being stressed?Just curious.I have been having the same problem with breakage .On my buggy I bought the 6 guns but haven`t got to run them yet.
Thanks Jeff

fabricator · 12-19-2009, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yellowjacket

finished mine up last night.
a couple thoughts: i used 1/4 angle. clamped the bottom when drilling like suggested. so hole was parallel. but when arms on and torqed, and then fifth bolt torqed, the fifth is not parallel, but top of bolt is angled out. im sure torqing it down did this. unsure if it will be a problem. as far as tacking the bolt head, lets just say its not my best weld. did it with the knuckle and arm installed, very little room to fit a mig gun.

so is the fifth stud stronger because it keeps the arm pulled down and resistant to studs loosening, or the side to side leverage strength upgrade? or both? with my fifth torqed down, i get the impression its actually trying to pull up on the inside 2 studs. even tough the angle iron was flat on knuckle before welding. got arp's but still concerned......

I didn't use angle... the piece I used was 1" thick
Mine didn't move when tighting it
sounds like maybe it pulled the angle down to the housing when
you tightened it? you sure it was all the way down before welding?
i think its stronger with side to side leverage
all this info is based on fireside wisdom with beverage consumption......
at camp of course

12-15-2009, 08:24 AM	#1
fabricator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Cincy, Oh Posts: 947	Toyota free 5th stud upgrade Hell, I just stole the whole thread to add to the tech forum http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...782&highlight= knuckle stud kit hardened and longer studs would be nice but, can't seem to find them, so i did what some have allready been doing not hard to do, just some time hope this holds a while been breaking studs and ripping the threads out so i copied the DSI thread the chunk of steel is 1"x1.5" the bolt is 2"x1/2-20 grade 8 welded the bolt on the inside of the knuckle Attached Images __________________ For you guys who can't drive, I have owned a frame rack for several years. Prices are based on your skill and ability to wreck it.... Last edited by fabricator; 12-15-2009 at 10:04 PM.

12-15-2009, 08:25 AM	#2
fabricator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Cincy, Oh Posts: 947	i have hydro assist, and i keep the bolts tight last time out i sheared 2 bolts and pulled the other 2 out the 5th bolt has a 1/2-20 grade 8 nut with a lockwasher no cone washer. the chunk of steel has been faced a little with a mill so the nut would sit flat on the chunk ================================================== ======== how did you keep the stud parallel to the other 4? ================================================== ======== I took the studs out of the bottom, and clamped the knuckle to the drill press table then drilled. was easy __________________ For you guys who can't drive, I have owned a frame rack for several years. Prices are based on your skill and ability to wreck it....

12-16-2009, 04:29 PM	#4
TheJeepGuy Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 25	Fifth stud This modification is an absolute must! One other way of doing it is to use 1/4inch angle iron and grind/mill the top of the knuckle so the angle iron lays flat and square with either your highsteer arm or with your orignal steer arm when you weld it.Also,you'll see two "bumps" on the inside of the knuckle about where the bolt head will be located on the inside,make sure you drill the hole between these two"bumps" so the bolt head will seat between them.

12-16-2009, 12:52 PM	#3
yellowjacket barely breathing Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: alexandria, ky Posts: 889	sweet. im glad i asked.thanx for reviving it on pbb, too. ill be doing this upgrade this week!

12-19-2009, 02:09 PM	#5
yellowjacket barely breathing Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: alexandria, ky Posts: 889	finished mine up last night. a couple thoughts: i used 1/4 angle. clamped the bottom when drilling like suggested. so hole was parallel. but when arms on and torqed, and then fifth bolt torqed, the fifth is not parallel, but top of bolt is angled out. im sure torqing it down did this. unsure if it will be a problem. as far as tacking the bolt head, lets just say its not my best weld. did it with the knuckle and arm installed, very little room to fit a mig gun. so is the fifth stud stronger because it keeps the arm pulled down and resistant to studs loosening, or the side to side leverage strength upgrade? or both? with my fifth torqed down, i get the impression its actually trying to pull up on the inside 2 studs. even tough the angle iron was flat on knuckle before welding. got arp's but still concerned......

12-19-2009, 06:43 PM	#6
Jeffd Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: winchester ky Posts: 32	What happens when you have to replace trunion bearings and have to change out shems I know it still unbolts but if you use less shems then the other four won`t tighten down correctly if you use more shems then the welded on piece is being stressed?Just curious.I have been having the same problem with breakage .On my buggy I bought the 6 guns but haven`t got to run them yet. Thanks Jeff