"BUILDING" 60s

Nuts · 07-22-2011, 08:06 AM

I'm sick of baby sitting toyota axles every time I go out so I'm finally stepping up to man axles but I've never messed with them and don't really know where to start. I'd like to get a 60/14bolt set with 4;56s but the set on here is pretty far away and YJ60 hasn't called me back yet

In the mean time I can get a stock set of 60s with 4;10s and drive flanges. They are from an 80s dodge 350. So what needs to be done to them to make them last with 39-42" tires and a V6-V8?

mckeddie · 07-22-2011, 08:36 AM

35 spline chromoly outers with at least spicer joints at a minimum with those tires or you will be snapping shafts like tooth picks. Some sort of gussets on the knuckles to keep from ripping the steering arms off with hydro and a truss to keep from bending it. That's basically all my old jeep had done and I never had a problem with it, he'll that axle was in butchs red ch for 4 years before I got it (although I put the 35 spline stuff in it) biggest thing for you will be shafts.

blazerbrad · 07-22-2011, 08:49 AM

Same advice as above for the front. Some sort of 35-spline stubs, at least Spicer joints, and make sure it has non-necked inner shafts at the minimum. On my Chevy version I have 35-spline Yukon stubs, Spicers, and new Spicer inners (bought years ago before any reasonably priced chromo's), with drive flanges. Also run a Lock-right with stock 4.10 gears. Never had a problem in the current condition after many years under a 6k truck with 40" Swampers, but I don't have a lot of power.

78Buford with his Ford version ran Spicer 35-spline shafts and joints with flanges for years. He did break a stub after several years of abuse under a 7k truck with 42's and a big-block, but the spindle bearing was also shot and had dug a groove in the shaft right where it broke. He didn't have as much luck with the Lock-right and now has a Detroit. Also broke one of the stock knuckles (this era Ford is known to have weaker knuckles) so he now has Cranes. With Yukon shafts and some sort of high-zoot u-joints, Detroit, and Crane knuckles he has beat on it for years without issues.

Not sure if I would even bother with the rear 60. You can verify but the smaller 30-spline axle versions are pretty common and it takes a bunch of work to convert to 35-spline (but you might be lucky). I would recommend just holding out for a 14-bolt or D70. Neither is hard to find or expensive.

twiztedzuki · 07-22-2011, 03:05 PM

i would hold out for 60/14b with gears already installd 456 or 488

blazerbrad · 07-22-2011, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twiztedzuki

i would hold out for 60/14b with gears already installd 456 or 488

I wouldn't pass up a pair of 4.10 geared axles (seems to be by far the most common factory setup). Factory gears any lower just are not that common, and at least with GM's 4.56 is the only other common ratio but you would never notice the difference between 4.10 and 4.56. Along those lines, for an off-road only rig that might be enough gearing if you have lot's of t-case gearing already. Though I will say you can usually get a good price if you find a set of axles that already have aftermarket stuff installed.

If you do plan on regearing keep in mind the carrier breaks. On the 14B try to stay with the 4.10 or higher gears as most of the aftermarket lower gears are designed as "thick" gears that use this carrier. If you have 4.56 gears and want lower you often need to get a new carrier. Also if you want a Detroit you want the open carrier as the Detroit installs like a Lock-right in these diffs and won't work with the factory posi.

On the other hand, for standard rotation Dodge and GM D60's they don't make thick gears so anything 4.56 or lower requires a different carrier than the 4.10's..........of course if you are going Detroit, ARB, etc... it doesn't matter.

yellowjacket · 07-22-2011, 04:01 PM

Skip the dodge red headed stepchild axle and stick w a chevy if u are ps drop. Dodge short side is funky length, easier to fiind chevy spare shafts..

Weld rear carrier into " the orb of traction".

X2 on payin a little extra for factory 4.56. --IF-- that ratio works for ya. If u changin it all out anyway then buy whats cheaper.

If u love being narrow like a toy but strength of a 60, run uncut h1 wheels w 7" bs. Requires specific high steer arms but with 12.50 wide tsls I was79" wide outside to outside iirc on front, less in rear.

Ill have a 4:56 front and rear up for sale here in a month. But they are dually. I'm gonna convert the front but rear is basically a 4:56 carrier with 300 lbs of useless attatched to it

twiztedzuki · 07-22-2011, 04:07 PM

yeah that make sense, if i had to do over i would buy a set already built from someone parting out buggy, with everything done 5.38s and chromos and front locker. seems to b cheaper than giving 12 hundy for 60/14b then having to go through them and change everything. someones loss can b ur gain if u keep an eye in the 4sale section

07-22-2011, 08:06 AM	#1
Nuts Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: middletown,oh Posts: 508	"BUILDING" 60s I'm sick of baby sitting toyota axles every time I go out so I'm finally stepping up to man axles but I've never messed with them and don't really know where to start. I'd like to get a 60/14bolt set with 4;56s but the set on here is pretty far away and YJ60 hasn't called me back yet In the mean time I can get a stock set of 60s with 4;10s and drive flanges. They are from an 80s dodge 350. So what needs to be done to them to make them last with 39-42" tires and a V6-V8?

07-22-2011, 08:36 AM	#2
mckeddie Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: van wert oh Posts: 583	35 spline chromoly outers with at least spicer joints at a minimum with those tires or you will be snapping shafts like tooth picks. Some sort of gussets on the knuckles to keep from ripping the steering arms off with hydro and a truss to keep from bending it. That's basically all my old jeep had done and I never had a problem with it, he'll that axle was in butchs red ch for 4 years before I got it (although I put the 35 spline stuff in it) biggest thing for you will be shafts. __________________ zuk buggy.....it'll be a jeep eventually.

07-22-2011, 03:05 PM	#4
twiztedzuki Join Date: May 2008 Location: Waverly ohio Posts: 586	i would hold out for 60/14b with gears already installd 456 or 488 __________________ SMITH BUILT PERIOD

07-22-2011, 04:01 PM	#6
yellowjacket barely breathing Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: alexandria, ky Posts: 889	Skip the dodge red headed stepchild axle and stick w a chevy if u are ps drop. Dodge short side is funky length, easier to fiind chevy spare shafts.. Weld rear carrier into " the orb of traction". X2 on payin a little extra for factory 4.56. --IF-- that ratio works for ya. If u changin it all out anyway then buy whats cheaper. If u love being narrow like a toy but strength of a 60, run uncut h1 wheels w 7" bs. Requires specific high steer arms but with 12.50 wide tsls I was79" wide outside to outside iirc on front, less in rear. Ill have a 4:56 front and rear up for sale here in a month. But they are dually. I'm gonna convert the front but rear is basically a 4:56 carrier with 300 lbs of useless attatched to it __________________ my next rig will be on the trail before zuk 2.0 will Last edited by yellowjacket; 07-22-2011 at 04:12 PM.

07-22-2011, 04:07 PM	#7
twiztedzuki Join Date: May 2008 Location: Waverly ohio Posts: 586	yeah that make sense, if i had to do over i would buy a set already built from someone parting out buggy, with everything done 5.38s and chromos and front locker. seems to b cheaper than giving 12 hundy for 60/14b then having to go through them and change everything. someones loss can b ur gain if u keep an eye in the 4sale section __________________ SMITH BUILT PERIOD

07-22-2011, 08:49 AM	#3
blazerbrad - CORE Member - Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 831 Images: 6	Same advice as above for the front. Some sort of 35-spline stubs, at least Spicer joints, and make sure it has non-necked inner shafts at the minimum. On my Chevy version I have 35-spline Yukon stubs, Spicers, and new Spicer inners (bought years ago before any reasonably priced chromo's), with drive flanges. Also run a Lock-right with stock 4.10 gears. Never had a problem in the current condition after many years under a 6k truck with 40" Swampers, but I don't have a lot of power. 78Buford with his Ford version ran Spicer 35-spline shafts and joints with flanges for years. He did break a stub after several years of abuse under a 7k truck with 42's and a big-block, but the spindle bearing was also shot and had dug a groove in the shaft right where it broke. He didn't have as much luck with the Lock-right and now has a Detroit. Also broke one of the stock knuckles (this era Ford is known to have weaker knuckles) so he now has Cranes. With Yukon shafts and some sort of high-zoot u-joints, Detroit, and Crane knuckles he has beat on it for years without issues. Not sure if I would even bother with the rear 60. You can verify but the smaller 30-spline axle versions are pretty common and it takes a bunch of work to convert to 35-spline (but you might be lucky). I would recommend just holding out for a 14-bolt or D70. Neither is hard to find or expensive.