Suspension link questions

[JeffK5]

A question for the people that have fabed there own link arms , how would or did you reduce the size of the tube at the joint?

I recieved my RE 3795 cart. joints today and found my first snag, I was told the width of the joint was 1.875 and they turned out to be 1.500..:mad:

I know I could send them back but I like there size and beef and would really like to make them work with my 2.0x.500 DOM link material.

I had considered flattening the tube to have room for a 100% weld but I don't want to drastically weaken it around the crushed area.

Or option two I could slab mill the sides of the tube and add 2 flats to reduce the width where it meets the joint.

The joints will be tig welded to the links so I can control the heat when it gets close to the threaded portion of the body.

Any opinions?

Jeff

[KargoMaster]

Wow, quite a difference between 1.5 and 1.875... "flatten the tube.." .5" wall... Now that is a machine that I don't EVER want to face the business end of...

You saw CW's.. turned down all the way around... I am considering the 2 flats for the non-adjustable ends of mine...

CW, what is your turned dimension?

[JeffK5]

Yep we have a couple hyd. presses that generate 625,000 lbs. of force, If I had the notion I could pinch 2.0x.5 in half !


I think Mike said they where turned down like .187/.250 a side ?


I'm open to ideas

I'm planning on threading the rear of the top links 1.25/12 for my Jimmy Joints.

[KargoMaster]

Now you got me thinking... You're going to just thread the 1.25/12 threaded end directly into the (obviously machined with threads) end of the tube?

I might consider that for the 2"x.5" lowers, but with 1.75"/.375" uppers I feel like I would want a threaded tube adapter... (1/4" of meat just not enough... but 3/8" of meat is???)

Am I thinking about this right?

[JeffK5]

Are you still talking about putting 1.25/12 in a 1.75 o.d tube? Because it's no different if you thread the tube direct or bore for a pre-machined tube adapter?

That's why I like the 2.0x.5, just bore the tube out to minor dia. of the 1.25/12 and chase a thread or run a tap in.

To be honest both .250 and .375 wall would be more than strong enough IMO.

Let me know I might be able to set you up with a slab and tap job!;)

[KargoMaster]

Originally Posted by JeffK5

To be honest both .250 and .375 wall would be more than strong enough IMO.

Sorry Jeff, I wasn't real clear with that .25/.375 comment I made... I was actually talking about the "nominal" dimensions around the bored/threaded hole in the end of the tube... (ignoring thread pitch for just a minute)

1.25" threaded "joint" in a 2" od tube gives me (about) 3/8" of the .5" wall left.

1.25" threaded "joint" in a 1.75" od tube gives me (about) 1/4" of the .375" wall left.


Sorry for the detour...


BTW, 1.25" shank Johnny Joints are 2 months out...

[JeffK5]

I'm saving up for the Summit Machine mega bling Jimmy joints,

also 6-8 weeks out!

Just run 2.0x.5 uppers, couple pounds and $20 bucks?

Jeff

[carwash]

my links are turned down to 1 5/8. My JJ's are 2" wide. This gave me just enough area to do a weld around. There is no fear of this being too thin of a wall, as the MOI needed for non-failure at the mounting end is much less than is needed in the middle. The link end is only concerned with sheer, and honestly, 1.75x.120 would be enough there. (i would never use something that thin, but just saying it would hold up fine.)

I don't like the idea of crushing the end of the tube, as that would create kinks that would be a spots asking for failure. Turning them down is a controlled process while crushing seems like it may produce random results.

How about clearancing just two side of the tube instead of turning the whole thing down...? That would leave your .500 wall on two edges and at least 3/8 or so on your weld edge... If i had thought about it, this is what i would have done. Not sure why i didnt think of it.

[JeffK5]

"How about clearancing just two side of the tube instead of turning the whole thing down...? That would leave your .500 wall on two edges and at least 3/8 or so on your weld edge... If i had thought about it, this is what i would have done. Not sure why i didnt think of it"


This is what I meant by "slab", great minds think alike..


I had planed on taper milling them so the flat faded to nothing as it went away from the weld joint , would look sweet and leave max. metal.

I was going to build some temp. tooling at work to smash the tube , I wasn't worried about inconsistency just weakening it.

Mike, I might like to buy a small piece (10"-12") of 2x.5 scrap off you and test this idea. We have a full metallurgical lab at my shop and I could get our tech to check and see what kind of damage is done by crushing it. I know it's overkill and don't mean shi+ to my build but I'm kinda' interisted in knowing what impact bending has on tube.

Jeff

[fabricator]

I been running 1.5 tube with .25 wall
for years now
But I too had 2" joint to weld to

[carwash]

Originally Posted by fabricator

I been running 1.5 tube with .25 wall
for years now
But I too had 2" joint to weld to

Yer not wheeling hard enough, or you rig is just too light. With that steel as lowers, i wouldnt make it through one trail run.

[carwash]

Jeff, I should have a small piece of scrap for ya. Let you know tomorrow. I can throw it in my truck for work tomorrow if you want to get it.

[JeffK5]

Where can we hook-up?

[fabricator]

Originally Posted by carwash

Yer not wheeling hard enough, or you rig is just too light. With that steel as lowers, i wouldnt make it through one trail run.

And this comes from someone without something to wheel?
My pile reflects a rough life in case you didn't notice
Just last weekend I scratched a door