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Old 12-09-2009, 02:56 PM   #1
f4isvt
 
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gear help

I have a 89 22re 5 spd manual that currently has 4.10s in it. I am debating putting 4.88s in it as I drive it everyday and once or twice a year it see's the trails (since i am selling the trail rig) I am running 31x10.5x15 is a 4.88 to much of a gear for street use? Or should I switch to 33x12.50 and run 4.88s? I have tried messing with those gear calculators but I dont get it and dont know any info like trans ratios. Thanks
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1989 ext cab yota 22re bored .20 over trd cam, trd headers, Marlin crawler front bumper w/stinger, Marlin crawler roll cage, trailgear rear bumper, trailgear rock sliders, richmond 5.29's, and lockright rear, 33 nokian mt's. 10k winch. Rear disc conversion. Chromoly rear axle shafts. Bombproof motor mounts and transfer case mount. Whole lot of rust and scratches.
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Old 12-09-2009, 03:18 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f4isvt View Post
I have a 89 22re 5 spd manual that currently has 4.10s in it. I am debating putting 4.88s in it as I drive it everyday and once or twice a year it see's the trails (since i am selling the trail rig) I am running 31x10.5x15 is a 4.88 to much of a gear for street use? Or should I switch to 33x12.50 and run 4.88s? I have tried messing with those gear calculators but I dont get it and dont know any info like trans ratios. Thanks
Give me some rpm readings at say acruising speed of 65mph. and one of 40mph and tell me what gear you are in. That is a start.
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Old 12-09-2009, 03:20 PM   #3
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with the 31 it does 70 at 3k rpm in top gear obviously I am pretty sure I can run 35-40 in 3rd gear at 3krpm
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1989 ext cab yota 22re bored .20 over trd cam, trd headers, Marlin crawler front bumper w/stinger, Marlin crawler roll cage, trailgear rear bumper, trailgear rock sliders, richmond 5.29's, and lockright rear, 33 nokian mt's. 10k winch. Rear disc conversion. Chromoly rear axle shafts. Bombproof motor mounts and transfer case mount. Whole lot of rust and scratches.
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Old 12-09-2009, 03:45 PM   #4
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The rpm's seem fairly high but maybe you need that to have enough power to go . Sounds like 33's with the 4.10 setup will take the rpms down to 2500-2600 rpms. That may be nice.
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Old 12-09-2009, 03:55 PM   #5
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Here's a link with some info that might help you determine what gearing you want to go with...:)

http://www.4lo.com/4LoCalc.htm

Hope this helps,
Jeff
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Old 12-09-2009, 04:40 PM   #6
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Years ago i wheeled with a guy that had a 88 4runner w/33's and 4.88's...
He always said the highway rpm's were just a little high, but it was really nice for 2 lane driving and trail riding...
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:32 PM   #7
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should be around 4:56 w/33"s ,the 4:88's are for towing and performance.

me personaly I like the pep of the 4:88's.
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:22 PM   #8
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Shoot me a PM with an e-mail address.

I've got an Excel file already built for 'Yota's that'll help you.

I would personally leave the 31's and 4.10's alone. I wouldn't step up to the 4.88's until 33's.

A lot of power can be extracted from the 22re purely by doing some exhaust work.
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:25 PM   #9
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For what it's worth
I have a 22re with 4.88's
it ran great on 36's. perfect for off road in my opinion

was little high for street driving but still ran ok
I have since moved to a taller tire

33's and 4.88's i think it would run like a raped ape
real well is what i mean

hell load your tires up and come over
we will bolt them on if you want
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Old 12-10-2009, 12:36 AM   #10
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i lied about the rpms. Its about 2600 at 40mph in 3rd and 2800 at 70 in top gear. I am running 31 with 4.10s but thinking of throwing a old man emu 2.5 lift on it and putting 33's and i know where a set of 4.88 set up are for a decent price. And as far as the engine its a 20 over bore matched trd cam, decked block, trd long tubes no cat straight to a glass pack.
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1989 ext cab yota 22re bored .20 over trd cam, trd headers, Marlin crawler front bumper w/stinger, Marlin crawler roll cage, trailgear rear bumper, trailgear rock sliders, richmond 5.29's, and lockright rear, 33 nokian mt's. 10k winch. Rear disc conversion. Chromoly rear axle shafts. Bombproof motor mounts and transfer case mount. Whole lot of rust and scratches.
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Old 12-10-2009, 05:57 AM   #11
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not sure i would lift it
but thats just me
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Old 12-10-2009, 08:58 AM   #12
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a toyota at 70??? yikes!!! i would want good seat belts!!!! lol
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Old 12-10-2009, 09:29 AM   #13
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not sure i would lift it
but thats just me
whys that?
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1989 ext cab yota 22re bored .20 over trd cam, trd headers, Marlin crawler front bumper w/stinger, Marlin crawler roll cage, trailgear rear bumper, trailgear rock sliders, richmond 5.29's, and lockright rear, 33 nokian mt's. 10k winch. Rear disc conversion. Chromoly rear axle shafts. Bombproof motor mounts and transfer case mount. Whole lot of rust and scratches.
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Old 12-10-2009, 09:53 AM   #14
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I lifted mine got bigger tires.
I lifted it again got bigger tires.
started flopping over on speedbumps
really was too high and flopped alot.

got pissed off took body lift out to lower it back down.
had issues with steering box hitting body mount ,cause i moved it after the lift and the trans/tcase hitting floor

so after spending hours jacking with the body mount
and days cutting 3'x4' hole in floor, cause i raised the trans/tcase it after the lift ,got it lowered back down.


bottom line is it dont flip as easy as it used to on a speed bump

I would trim fenders if they hit the 33's and move on
lower with a bigger tire always looks better don't you think?
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Old 12-10-2009, 12:22 PM   #15
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I have been watching this thread and have a question, I have a 86 runner 5spd and just bought 35" and been told to do 5.29's (per TG) but I have also been told to get 4.88's. I only plan on taking out to the trail (driving it) it's not a DD. I am also gearing the t-case for the trails. What's your opinion? Thanks!
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Old 12-10-2009, 01:47 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 944drsk View Post
I have been watching this thread and have a question, I have a 86 runner 5spd and just bought 35" and been told to do 5.29's (per TG) but I have also been told to get 4.88's. I only plan on taking out to the trail (driving it) it's not a DD. I am also gearing the t-case for the trails. What's your opinion? Thanks!
For trails I would run the 5.29;s personally but it is an opinion. Either I would think will be fine. You running new years day?
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Old 12-10-2009, 02:41 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 944drsk View Post
I have been watching this thread and have a question, I have a 86 runner 5spd and just bought 35" and been told to do 5.29's (per TG) but I have also been told to get 4.88's. I only plan on taking out to the trail (driving it) it's not a DD. I am also gearing the t-case for the trails. What's your opinion? Thanks!
i run 38's in my yota with with stock 4.10 gears and dual transfer cases..(mine is trailer queen..never sees the road)...been wheelin that way for 2 years..i like it...its a lil bit high geared but not enough to justify droppin 600-800 bucks on ring and pinions...plus spare 4.10s are easy to get...gearing is a personal opinion type thing i think...fabricator is runnin 38s with 4.88s and gets around real well..it runs good on the road too..
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Old 12-10-2009, 05:32 PM   #18
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As far as I can tell, won't be able to run the 4runner, but would like to attend.Had a good time last year.Won't have to leave early this year.The whole gearing thing is kinda confusing, just want to make sure it's steetable.Thanks for the help.
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Old 12-10-2009, 06:20 PM   #19
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ALWAYS anticipate going to a larger tire. It WILL happen. You wheel it twice a year yet drive it everyday. 4.88 with 31's will be too steep and kill mpg. (we're talking real bad mpg) I used to have 36" iroks with 5.29 and could cruise 70 on the highway at 18-20 mpg.

31's.....4.10/4.30
33's.....4.30/4.56
35's.....4.56/4.88
36+.....4.88/5.29

remember, base your decision as a daily driver. 33"/4.10 w/ smooth rolling radial will work fine. A bit piggish up highway hills, but still ok. Put the gear $$ to something else.
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Old 12-10-2009, 09:41 PM   #20
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for big tyres and offroad
my vote is 5.29 also
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Old 12-10-2009, 11:09 PM   #21
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if your doing straight axle I know where a nice set brake to brake front and rear axles are 5.29s detroit front and rear 400 bucks. Anyways the big reason I wonder is I found a set of 4.88s set up for a pretty good price then could sell my 4.10s and recoop a little of my money. My truck is to fast off road unless i put it in 4low but its annoying to run around in 4low all day. I just want to make sure 4.88s wont be too much for the street.
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Old 12-11-2009, 09:17 AM   #22
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In my opinion, axle gears are mainly to opitimize performance on the street, t-case gearing is to optimize off-road performance. You simply can't get nearly the percent amount of change with axle gears as you can with lower t-case gears or a doubler.

I'm by no means a Toyota guy but we are talking about a little 22R 4-banger and not a V-8 so the powerbands are drastically different. Don't these trucks usually come with 4.10 gears stock with somewhere around 28" tires? I can see how 4.88 and 31's might be slightly low for street driving but it's only a couple hundred RPM at 65 mph higher than stock, which is probably perfect because you aren't just overcoming the added tire height but also the heavier weight and rolling resistance of the tire. I do know a guy in our club that put 33's on his stock 4.10 geared Toyota and 5th gear was completely useless even on flat roads.

Of course my idea of trails are apparently different than the original poster in regards to the comment about using 4 hi so my opinion may not work for him. I can't remember the last time I used 4 hi on any type of trail, if hi range is needed than I don't need 4wd and if I do need to go faster in 4 low I just shift into a higher trans gear. I also wheel regularly with a couple guys in Sami's with 6.5:1 t-cases and they just use 3rd or 4th gear, or even 5th gear, in the open spaces.
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Old 12-11-2009, 04:33 PM   #23
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I agree almost completely with Brad... percent change through t-case is significantly different than dif gearing...

But I've also been at Haspin on wet/sloppy days where I don't see much of low range all day... if only for additional wheel spin to clean out the tires...

Some great tech throughout...
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Old 12-11-2009, 05:38 PM   #24
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I agree almost completely with Brad... percent change through t-case is significantly different than dif gearing...

But I've also been at Haspin on wet/sloppy days where I don't see much of low range all day... if only for additional wheel spin to clean out the tires...

Some great tech throughout...

I guess it depends on how the rig is setup and what optons are available in low range. In my case 3rd gear in the trans and low range is higher (faster) than 1st gear trans and high range.....but a moot point because I don't have enough engine to spin that high of a gear anyway (I don't have a creepy crawly gear ratio to begin with).
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Old 12-12-2009, 12:28 AM   #25
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should be around 4:56 w/33"s ,the 4:88's are for towing and performance.

me personaly I like the pep of the 4:88's.

I have to agree. If your not going big on tires and plan to keep it on the street, go with 4:56's and 33's. Save yourself some money and grab a factory third member from a 90-95 V6 4-runner with 4:56's. There's one at UPAP right now($60). The V6 third will bolt right up and is stronger. If your staying with IFS up front, you could even grab the front diff with 4:56's although it's not fun to pull. If your going SAS, just find another runner to pull the rear diff and you have cheap 4:56's with stronger thirds.

I'm running 4:88's with 35's but MY runner is a SAS'ed 90 with the V6. I like it on the road and sorry to say it hasn't been off road enough with the new setup to give a good review.

Almost forgot, This guy told me I could have the rear third for $50 if I pulled it and I just never had the time to go get it so there's 2.
http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/pts/1503558113.html

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