ballistic joint questions

[Flxratd]

i have a chance to buy 16 ballistic joints 1-1/4 shaft 5/8 bolt hole 2.60 width. they are brand new but the old weld on shank style. i have heard some issues with the welds failing and was wanting some feedback from people. they are complete with the inserts and jam nuts all still packaged up and i can save ALOT over the new style for all 16 but if they dont hold up well its not a good deal. told him i would let him know tomorrow so teell me what you think or heard.

thanks scott

[94Dodge Truggy]

if the package says defective do not buy it. ;) How much will your rig weigh that these are going on?

[yellowjacket]

I have the 3.0 ones on my lowers. Weld on, no shanks, so probably dosent help your question... Probably wouldent recomend them based on what ive heard and seen since ive got them though but I could be wrong

[boomhauer]

i use to run ballistic fab joints but i would not recommend them. they just wear out too fast in my opinion and it gets old really fast having to adjust them all the time. currie is the way to go

[94Dodge Truggy]

Sounds like I would steer away from them unless you are putting them on a seriously light weight rig. :confused:

[Flxratd]

thanks for the replies. i am going to pass on them because of some things i had seen and just wanted to know if it was isolated happinings. only a good deal if they will work.

[twiztedzuki]

has anyone checkd out tk1 racing? 1.25 complete heims 45$$$ I used ruff stuff speciaties but buddy showd me the tk1 heims

[flatlander757]

I have Ballistic 3.0" joints for my single UCA, no problems from them.

I HAD Ballistic 2.63" joints(4 of them) for my LCAs... they all wore out with 1000 miles of STREET driving. They are adjustable... and you WILL need to adjust them... constantly. Then when they can't be tightened any more you'll be spending another $20 per joint to replace the races. Screw that.

I have 1.25" Ruff Stuff heims for my lowers now... they are all just fine over 1500 miles and a few wheeling trips later beating on it.

The only rebuildable joint I would consider using would be Johnny Joints, because they are proven, and are made of materials that don't wear out super fast. The Ballistics blow ass because they "washer" that holes the guts in flexes and allows the races to be loaded unevently, from what I gather.

[yellowjacket]

Flatlander.
u said no probs with the 3.0s like with the smaller ones though?. Cause its the same, just bigger, rite? Mine are new, but the threads are really tite. Witch concerns me when I need to tighten them on a continuous basis, cause I know threads only get tougher after being under a trail rig for a season...
ive heard lots of bad news bout the inner washer like u said, too.... Gues ill try them, and replace as needed with jjs

[kydc2]

What kinda rig do you have that you need 1.25 rod ends on. Those are huge. I use 3/4 rod ends without problems.

http://www.qscomponents.com

[Flxratd]

these joints would be overkill for me it was just a very good buy if i hadent heard some stories and helped a guy at the badlands who broke two of these on his rigs rear four link and when the rear end kicked out it wiped out his two rear fox shocks and one of his nitro bumps and it took us 2 hours to strap it together and get him back to the trailer.

so it was just the potential savings that had me thinking but im over it now. carnage = dollars and thats not savings.

thanks for the responses again

[T-bird]

Originally Posted by kydc2

What kinda rig do you have that you need 1.25 rod ends on. Those are huge. I use 3/4 rod ends without problems.

http://www.qscomponents.com

Flatlander has a 2003 TJ with Dana 60/70. Rear has Cherokee leafs and the front it a 3 link. He was questioning that he might need more separation after the first joints went bad, but I am not sure what he has figured out since he installed the new joints.

[twiztedzuki]

i run 1.25 all way around got my arms the other day so 1.25s on steering to shortly

[flatlander757]

Originally Posted by yellowjacket

Flatlander.
u said no probs with the 3.0s like with the smaller ones though?. Cause its the same, just bigger, rite? Mine are new, but the threads are really tite. Witch concerns me when I need to tighten them on a continuous basis, cause I know threads only get tougher after being under a trail rig for a season...
ive heard lots of bad news bout the inner washer like u said, too.... Gues ill try them, and replace as needed with jjs

The 3.0s have a "solid nylatron" race... which is NOW offered on the 2.63" joints... the 2.63s have half-hollow honeycomb sort of patterned race.... or used to anyway... enough people have *****ed about them sucking balls that it appears they are only offered with the solid races now.

Even still, I don't know if they've fixed the washers flexing issue or not, I wasted $320 on their joints once already... and $60 on their bushings which are poorly designed too... never again will I buy their ****.

I have no problems with the 3.0s... but they just take up WAY too much damn space... I will run 1.25" hiems in their place when I have to replace them too.

This is the TJ in question:

Originally Posted by T-bird

Flatlander has a 2003 TJ with Dana 60/70. Rear has Cherokee leafs and the front it a 3 link. He was questioning that he might need more separation after the first joints went bad, but I am not sure what he has figured out since he installed the new joints.

Well I've beaten the heims senselessly much harder than I did with the Bull****astic 2.63" joints... and I've probably got about 2000 miles of street driving on the heims since the 2.63 joints were replaced... No play.

[carwash]

Scott, I'm placing a huge rod end order this week, and can toss a full set of 1.25's on it with inserts and misalignment etc if you like. Gimme a call, I will make you a silly deal.

[Flxratd]

you have pm