Locker Opinions

[Hope Springs Hauler]

I have my thoughts but wondered about yours.

I now have an 8.8 axle that I will be installing under the YJ. It will have 4.56 gears and be running 36" tires on the trail and 35" tires on the street. THe current carrier is open so I have the choice of lunchbox lockers or full carriers.

I will drive this on the street during inclement weather.

What type of locker would you run for dual purpose use? I researched on PBB about Aussie, Detroit(full), ARB, OX and Eaton ELocker.

In the future I would like a selectable in the front after I find a good D44 front, but that will take a year or three.

[Flxratd]

Originally Posted by Hope Springs Hauler

I have my thoughts but wondered about yours.

I now have an 8.8 axle that I will be installing under the YJ. It will have 4.56 gears and be running 36" tires on the trail and 35" tires on the street. THe current carrier is open so I have the choice of lunchbox lockers or full carriers.

I will drive this on the street during inclement weather.

What type of locker would you run for dual purpose use? I researched on PBB about Aussie, Detroit(full), ARB, OX and Eaton ELocker.

In the future I would like a selectable in the front after I find a good D44 front, but that will take a year or three.

well the examples you give show that money might not be an object ? arb elocker ox i would pic one of those if thats the case over like a lock right or something like that. i run an arb in the front of mine and love it and i use my ac compressor for the air with a nice size tank which is great for airing tires or even running tools. some people call them air leakers but most of them are running co2 tanks and that is not recomended. just my long winded 2 cents

[94Dodge Truggy]

Hard core wheeling I like spools in the rear for reliability and a high quality selectable locker in the front. Moderate wheeling a detroit or selectable locker in the rear. Welded rears usually need attention here and there to keep the spiders from working loose. Ausie, Arb or Ox. My opinion. ;)

[WrenchMonkey]

Sorry, but I won't buy a $600 locker when a $200 locker works (for me) just as well...

Your milage, as they say, may vary...

Robert

[GPER]

Originally Posted by Robert

Sorry, but I won't buy a $600 locker when a $200 locker works (for me) just as well...

Your milage, as they say, may vary...

Robert

X2, lock rights at both ends.

[94Dodge Truggy]

I have broken many lock-rights and seen others break too many also. For mild wheeling they may be fine. Broke welded spiders or had to reweld them and were not trustworthy also. Never had a spool fail!

[GPER]

Originally Posted by 94Dodge Truggy

I have broken many lock-rights and seen others break too many also. For mild wheeling they may be fine. Broke welded spiders or had to reweld them and were not trustworthy also. Never had a spool fail!

That would be me, I have been beat around on a bulldozer for over 30 years. I like a nice leisurely ride on the weekends, I can get my thrills through the week with someone else's ride.

[blazerbrad]

A properly welded differential will never fail because of the welds. If you break a weld, or the "spiders get loose" it was NOT welded properly, period. I have also seen several welded diffs fail because the welds broke, but after inspection there was not nearly enough welded area and/or it was simply a poor weld job. I have also seen welded diffs break not directly because of the welds but I really don't think the welded part was directly the cause (a 10-bolt rear axle under a fullsize truck with 36's is likely to break whether it's welded or not).

Anyway, back to the original question.

Most people running "lunch box lockers" (i.e. Lock-right, Ausssie, etc...) have had pretty good luck including myself (D60 front, 39.5" tires, fullsize truck). 78Buford did break his front Lock-right running 42's, big block, all under a 7,000 lb. truck but it wasn't a catastropic failure or anything, just wouldn't consistently stay locked going forward.

For a mainly off-road vehicle I will never have anything but a welded rear axle (or maybe a spool...acts the same). And personally I think a welded/spooled rear diff is more predictable on the road than a Lock-right, Detroit, etc... However the welded/spool does have some other drawbacks on a daily driver but they are mainly tire wear and tire chirping.

Selectable lockers are really nice for a multi-use rig, but are usually much more expensive and not as reliable on the trail. I can't count the number of times I have seen people having issues getting them to lock in for one reason or the other. This includes ARB's (multiple different rigs...personally seen lines break (1-2 times), compressors fail (1-2 times), o-ring leaks inside the diff (2 times) all on different rigs). Two guys have Ox lockers (3 lockers total) and both have constant trouble getting them to lock in because othe cable adjustment. I know one guy with the E-locker and never consistently stays locked either. Now I will say that being careful with installation and maintenance is very important to reliable operation...but with that said two of the guys are very meticulate when it comes to installation and maintenance, one guys is probably so-so, and two are the "beat the rig up, pull it off the trailer and park it until the next ride" type that are probably lucky to even wash their rigs.

[wilson1010]

A locked rear end on off camber mud simply does not work. And, my lock right locks up with the slightest free rotation. So, my vote is selectable in the rear. Ox, or ARB.

[maddhatter]

Ox or air in the front Spool in the back.


Full locked rigs do Fine off camber in the mud but you do have to just point, shoot and hope for the best. lol Body damage is good!!

[94Dodge Truggy]

If you have alot of time on your hands and a limited budget a welded rear will do but with high HP and hard core wheeling I have yet to see one survive for a long time. I have had professional welders with military certification, demolition derby friends with good skills and others try and have yet to see a welded diff. hold up to my liking. Just not as reliable. In the past year I have seen these axles fail that were welded. A 2.5 ton rockwell, samurai axle, mazda diff, dana 30, dana 35, dana 44, dana 60 and a 14 bolt. Some may have the technique to weld it up just so to keep it solid but many fail at the attempt. Just my opinion. :)

[blazerbrad]

Don't get me wrong, not trying to dispute somebody else's opinion just stating my own. I also realize this is getting slightly off topic from the original question.

Just because they are a good welder, doesn't mean it was done right. And doing a welded diff takes less time then setting up a locker. I'll admit that the first attempt often doesn't work and here are examples:
- my 14-bolt - had a professional and certified welder at work TIG weld it, and it lasted exactly one trail ride (strictly lack of weld surface). Had a friend who welds as a hobby put it back together with a flux core welder, had about 20 times as much weld surface and no problems after 4-5 years.
- 78Buford's D70 - had a welding shop do it, lasted I think one ride (again, lack of weld surface). Took it to a friend who added about 3 lbs. of welding wire to it hasn't failed since (see below).
- Sami with 'yota rear axle - guy did it himself, first attempt he was focusing on trying to make it look pretty and again not enough weld surface. After it broke he welded the crap out of it also...no issues either.

78Buford has been running a welded rear D70 for years now with 42" Swampers (5 psi) and a 469 estimated to put out 500+ ft-lbs. of torque. In light-weight mode it tips in around 6,000 lbs., heavy-weight mode it was 7,000 lbs. Last November he hit Devil's Brew in Slade with the tach pegged at 5k rpm and all four tires bounces off the ground and slammed back down under full throttle (he runs 1410 u-joints and has chromos and bling joints in the front). That is the way he drives on any real nasty obstacle.

Another guy runs a stretched Sami on 'yota axles with a 300+ hp aluminum head 302....okay, it's technically a Sami but not exactly lightweight with a 100" wheelbase, V-8, C6, D300, winch, cage, etc... with 35x16 Boggers at 5 psi in the rear. Again, he's run for years with no failures.

But again, if you don't like welded diffs then that's perfectly fine.

[Hope Springs Hauler]

I am getting the drift that the selectable would be best for my purpose if I want to spend the $$$.

I am still going back and forth between Full Detroit and ARB. If I go with the ARB, I'll obviously need to set up OBA ASAP. I dont really want to spend $150 on a locker only pump.

This will be a good discussion for future reference for others. If I was going to have this be a trail only rig, it would be a spool as I have to re-gear anyway.

Currently I am just worried about the effects of driving with a locked rear in snow on the street. This jeep will be an exercise in compromises as the wife says it MUST remain streetable and I say that I MUST be able to take it to rural drilling jobsites.

I'm currently pondering doing the Full detroit or aussie in the rear and saving the coin for the front selectable when I step up to the D44.

[maddhatter]

I have Detroit's front and back in my CJ7 and it is a nightmare in the ice and snow. However if you air down and be easy on the skinny peddle it is still way better then open diffs. My 2 cents.

[GPER]

Originally Posted by maddhatter

I have Detroit's front and back in my CJ7 and it is a nightmare in the ice and snow. However if you air down and be easy on the skinny peddle it is still way better then open diffs. My 2 cents.

You must have power steering, I need to finish mine.

[maddhatter]

Originally Posted by GPER

You must have power steering, I need to finish mine.

What all do you need I have a friend with a P/S box I think.

[GPER]

Originally Posted by maddhatter

What all do you need I have a friend with a P/S box I think.

I think I have everything, I just need to get off of my butt and do it. A warm day might help also, thanks.

[Flxratd]

Originally Posted by Hope Springs Hauler

I am getting the drift that the selectable would be best for my purpose if I want to spend the $$$.

I am still going back and forth between Full Detroit and ARB. If I go with the ARB, I'll obviously need to set up OBA ASAP. I dont really want to spend $150 on a locker only pump.

This will be a good discussion for future reference for others. If I was going to have this be a trail only rig, it would be a spool as I have to re-gear anyway.

Currently I am just worried about the effects of driving with a locked rear in snow on the street. This jeep will be an exercise in compromises as the wife says it MUST remain streetable and I say that I MUST be able to take it to rural drilling jobsites.

I'm currently pondering doing the Full detroit or aussie in the rear and saving the coin for the front selectable when I step up to the D44.

once again back on subject my arb has been in my rig for 4 years running proper pressure and i have had zero leaks and zero failures maybe i just wheel like a girl and dont stress my rig like other people anyway like belly buttons everyone has an opinion. weed through the advise and make a move

[KargoMaster]

Here's some thoughts on other influencing factors...

For me, locker choice also depends on the tcase...

If it's a full time tcase (front driveshaft always spins) that needed to be streetable, selectable both ends... $$$$$$ ...or coming in a very distant second, "soft" locker/limited slip in the front and then evaluate the rear dif options.

If it's a part time tcase with lockouts... (front shaft only spins when 4wd and/or lockouts engaged) ...my choice would be a "No-Slip" (whatever your liking -- Full spool, beefy mini spool [thinking 14bolt with open carrier type], Detroit, welded, etc.) in the front and then selectable in the rear, or again, the distant second would be a step below No-Slip... like a Detroit TrueTrac or similar...




For perspective:
For my trail rig, I have a full spool in the 14bolt in the rear, and a Detroit No-Slip in the 60 front.


My former NBS '99 GMC blew the gov-bomb in the 10 bolt, I replaced it with a TrueTrac and I was quite happy with it for DD and tow duty. (nice and steady pulling trailer in mud/snow or on a slimy boat ramp with ZERO chirping/clunking)


My current 1995 3500HD dually was re-geared with an open carrier... and I desperately wanted to put in another limited slip device while I was in there...(TrueTrac?? I think I looked it up, and they did make a 37 spline Dana80 version... ) ...but couldn't justify it with the CFO. :(

[KargoMaster]

Originally Posted by GPER

That would be me..

You're still the only original owner of a CJ that I know... and the bonus is that it gets wheeled and wrenched on regularly...

[GPER]

Originally Posted by KargoMaster

You're still the only original owner of a CJ that I know... and the bonus is that it gets wheeled and wrenched on regularly...

Doesn't look like there will be any wrenching on it until it warms up.

[carwash]

daily driver streetable + snow/ice conditions = selectable lockers, in my opinion.

moderate street use + parked in the winter = detroits front and rear

no street use (trail only) = spool rear, detroit front

and yes, i have a butthole too...

[Flxratd]

Originally Posted by carwash

daily driver streetable + snow/ice conditions = selectable lockers, in my opinion.

moderate street use + parked in the winter = detroits front and rear

no street use (trail only) = spool rear, detroit front

and yes, i have a butthole too...

its belly button unless yours is different

[KargoMaster]

Originally Posted by Flxratd

anyway like belly buttons everyone has an opinion.

I like using "elbows" ...that way everyone can have more than one.

[WrenchMonkey]

Originally Posted by KargoMaster

I like using "elbows" ...that way everyone can have more than one.

And jab you with them...

Robert