04-29-2009, 11:58 AM | #26 |
Jeepless
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Oxford, Oh
Posts: 302
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I would just weld a good nut to the end of each one of those lug nuts and prepare myself to spend money on new ones. (they do get pricey when you add them up) If you can't do that is the vehicle mobile? I'm sure a goodyear, tire discounter, or even walmart would be happy to exchange some dollars for some labor.
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04-29-2009, 04:36 PM | #27 | |
BIG DADDY
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 28
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04-29-2009, 04:58 PM | #28 |
Jeepless
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Oxford, Oh
Posts: 302
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No matter what you bring them, they have seen worst.
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04-29-2009, 06:40 PM | #29 |
Tiny Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Colerain
Posts: 798
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Drill it out ... carbide faced masonry bit if a regular cobalt/HSS twist drill has problems dealing with the stud material.
Step drill up to something close to the dia. of the stud ....then drive a hex bodied chisel into the hole ... put adjustable wrench on the hex body and work whats left of the nut/stud in various directions until metal fatigue becomes your friend...enjoy |
04-29-2009, 10:56 PM | #30 |
BIG DADDY
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 28
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Thanks for all the help guys and I'll let you know when and how I get them off!
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04-30-2009, 07:53 AM | #31 |
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Kettering, Ohio
Posts: 811
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And don't forget the anti seize the next time around.
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04-30-2009, 07:43 PM | #32 |
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: 1
Posts: 92
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Huh? Are we talkng about the factory nuts here? The ones with the crappy stamped cover on them? Hard to tell from your pics. If so split the cover off with a chisle, drive the smallest socket on the actual nut (usually metric) and turn 'em off. It's hard for me to believe you could drive a socket two sizes smaller than the nut if it's a solid nut.
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05-01-2009, 01:18 AM | #33 | |
BIG DADDY
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 28
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