"THE HEEP" Buildup (SOA, 3/4 axles, Stak, Hi-steer)

[carwash]

The extra 2 inches is worth it... you will want more, but take what you can get.

[JeepHD]

Got the front axle about 90% done. Need to route brake lines and burn on some shock mounts. I mounted it forward 2 inches. Also got the tires mounted. Only problems I ran into was that the bleeder screws are too long and hit the rim. Also had to grind the bolt that holds the brake clip on. Any ideas on the bleeder screw? I am going to try to get a shorter one, otherwise I will just have to grind off the end of the ones I have.

Here is some pics. Also, I am adding some pics of the high steer and front axle in previous posts.

[JeepHD]

Height to top of Rollbar with 30psi in tires - 81 inches

Bottom of differential to ground - 12 inches

Front suspension travel - 12 inches

Total wheelbase - 97 inches (Front forward 2 inches, rear back 1 inch)

[94Dodge Truggy]

Man that looks really good!

[mckeddie]

do your flanges stick out past the wheel? i'd be afraid of hitting them on rocks?

[JeepHD]

Originally Posted by 94Dodge Truggy

Man that looks really good!

Thanks

Originally Posted by mckeddie

do your flanges stick out past the wheel? i'd be afraid of hitting them on rocks?

I am concerned about that but plan on running as is for now. Flanges are about even with the outer lip of the rim. Offset an inch or so from th outer part the tire. May eventually change the backspacing on the rims. I would also like a little more width for stability.

[carwash]

ran hummer wheels at stock width with flanges sticking out past for years... no issues. jeff smith's are out past as well as Jim Smith's i believe... dont' worry about it, that stuff is strong. The rear can take the beating, the front can take even more if you go with drive flanges instead of lockouts.

[JeepHD]

Making some good progress lately. Stak shifters are hooked up, Slid rear axle back an inch. and lots of little things.

Info for anyone using H1 Rims on the HPD44 and I would guess the HPD60, there is some clearance issues. The original bleeder valves were too long, I had to find some shorter ones and replace them. Also the bolt that holds the clip in place for the caliper at the bottom of the caliper braket had to be ground shorter, as it rubbed the rim. After grinding I have clearance but only an 1/8 inch or less. I just hope a small rock or won't get jammed in there and cause problems. I really like how the H1 completely surrounds and protects the brakes though!

Should have my steering tie rods and longer brake lines this week to put on over the weekend. Should be down to driveshafts, TJ Flares and a few other odds and ends after the weekend. Ordering the driveshafts today from High Angle. I think I will end up with 1350s all around with a 1410 on the front of the case to be able to handle the 20 degree running angle.

Carwash and Truggy, what gear oil are you running in the stak? All I could find in their paperwork was GL-5 or better. What would you suggest?

I finally see the light at the end of the tunnel! Test run will be March 21&22 if I can't get a local test run in before.

[carwash]

i haven't put anything in mine yet, but i will be running Amsoil products all around in this rig...

[94Dodge Truggy]

I run a mobile 70w oil for industrial gearboxes.

[JeepHD]

Still making progress. Should get updated pics soon. Leaving next Thursday evening to ride in southern ohio, so the deadline is quickly approaching.

Done with all the major stuff except setting pinion angle and welding on perches on the rear. I am waiting on driveshafts which shipped yesterday from California and are scheduled to be delivered Wednesday. Guess I will put them in last minute.

Installed TJ flares last night. Really opened it up for the larger tires. Also made the tires look much more proportional to the jeep. I was impressed with the difference it makes in looks.

[JeepHD]

Got it put together enough for a shakedown run at the last minute. Definetly have some things to work out.

Traction bars - Need them front and rear. Any suggestions. Looking at typical style with bushings on axle end and a Heim on a shackle mount off the crossmember. Had so much wrap in the rear the I blew apart two u-bolt straps on the rear yoke, dinged up the d-shaft a little, and blew the caps on the u-joint.

OX Locker front - FOR SALE - Didn't seem to want to engage. I think it is because of the tight bends in the cable. Probably sell the OX and put an Aussie or similiar in the front.

NV3550 - Supposedly rebuilt. Has some noise, sounds like in the front bearing which I think it typical of early years of the tranny. Also occasionally popped out of 3rd when letting off gas. Going to replace the synchros in my AX-15 and put it back in instead. NV3550 will be FOR SALE.

Stak - Mount is sitting on bench and didn't get installed so with about a max of a half inch clearance from tub, it was hitting tub in rough terrain.

TSLs & H1 - Loved them, I would like change the backspacing on them by about 2 inchs for looks and stability.

Gearing - with the stak 4.3:1 offroad gear was very nice. No complaints off road. On road it was pretty weak when trying to turn the 38s going up hills, but it's not drivin on the road much anyway.

[94Dodge Truggy]

Make sure you mount the stak itself to some sort of bracing or it will twist off the 6 mounting studs! Front track bar is rarely needed with a good leaf sprung setup.

[JeepHD]

Originally Posted by 94Dodge Truggy

Make sure you mount the stak itself to some sort of bracing or it will twist off the 6 mounting studs! Front track bar is rarely needed with a good leaf sprung setup.

Yep, I am going to run two 2 x 2 square stock from one side of the frame to the other using poly bushings. One will hold tranny and front traction bar mount and the rear will hold stak and rear tractions bar. I will also tie the front and rear 2x2s together.

Friends watched and said my front was wrapping pretty bad also. I am running stock YJs with an added main leaf. I have 7 inch perches on front and rear. I would rather run traction bars and keep the soft springs that run stiffer springs. I would be open to other spring combinations, but I want to keep it as low and flexy as possible.

Thanks

[JeepHD]

Pics from two weeks ago. Not really any action shots, but proof I was out for the trial run.





Ordering joints and bushing for antiwrap bars this week.

[94Dodge Truggy]

Where did you wheel?

[JeepHD]

Originally Posted by 94Dodge Truggy

Where did you wheel?

Private land.

[JeepHD]

Well I yanked the stock springs after bending one on basically nothing. I picked up 2 inch BDS lift springs. I chose them due to the full military wrap, lifetime warranty, no shipping since I travel by their distribution center monthly, and they were cheaper than most. Also finished my anti-warp on the rear and mounted the stak temporarily.

My write and pics on the antiwrap are here:
http://buckeyejeepers.forumz.cc/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=44

With the new springs and anti wrap, it performed much better. After visiting redbird and haspin over the weekend the only thing I do not like is the whole jeep tends to hop when I break traction. Any ideas what is causing this. I know my rear shock need changed because they don't do much due to the angle. The only other thing I could think of was the low pressure in the 38s, around 5 psi. Any thoughts.

[carwash]

Hopping when breaking traction would probably be due to the lack of shock stroke to slow down the hop.

[maddhatter]

This this has turned out great!!
Very cool build, I hope to see it out on the trail sometime.

[JeepHD]

Originally Posted by carwash

Hopping when breaking traction would probably be due to the lack of shock stroke to slow down the hop.

Yep, that is my only thoughts at this point.

Originally Posted by maddhatter

This this has turned out great!!
Very cool build, I hope to see it out on the trail sometime.

Thanks, Now I just need to get it to sit lower! 1 inch body lift is coming off and I am going to try to raise the rear spring mounts about an inch to loose another 1/2. Hopefully the springs settle down about an inch or so also.

[blazerbrad]

Did it hop the same way before the traction bar? Just wondering if the geometry (anti-squat) of the bar is part of the issue. A guy in our club put a traction bar on his and afterwards it would almost jump completely off the ground because of the super high anti-squat.

[MrShoeBoy]

Make the rear bar as long as you can. I had a similar issue with the traction bar in my old XJ. Would hop around after breaking loose. I lengthened the bar and it got better but would still hop a little. I completly solved the hopping in my new truck with a 4 link.

Good Luck,

AARON

[nshefbuch]

hey i came accross these springs. have you checked these out for your soa? i've always heard rubicon has the best leaf springs.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16311_5111.htm

[JeepHD]

Originally Posted by nshefbuch

hey i came accross these springs. have you checked these out for your soa? i've always heard rubicon has the best leaf springs.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16311_5111.htm

Yes I considered them, but they are twice the price as my BDS Springs and BDS has a better warranty. I also travel to Coldwater MI often for work and that is where BDS is located so I save shipping and if I do bend one, I can exchange when I am in the area for work. When I go my BDS springs they were about $80 a piece, so half the price of the REs. They have went up to $100 since.

Thanks
Josh