Before & After - My 1993 K1500

[humpy]

The 44 blem bogger rear and 43 Sx front

Themselves match the 43 with half inch.... I like the fat boggers myself

[humpy]

If u wanna better pics I can take some when it comes back from exhaust shop

[93 Krawler]

The 44 looks good that wide. Looks proportional. Are the rims 17 x 12?
Muffler shop... Does that mean it's almost ready to wheel?

The 39.5 x 15 TSL Bogger combo will run me $2050 shipped. A set of 43 x 17 SX will run me $2350 shipped. If I can get enough from my tires and rims to cover new rims, I would do it. Anyone have some 17x10 rims with beadlocks they want to sell or trade?

[humpy]

Originally Posted by 93 Krawler

The 44 looks good that wide. Looks proportional. Are the rims 17 x 12?
Muffler shop... Does that mean it's almost ready to wheel?

The 39.5 x 15 TSL Bogger combo will run me $2050 shipped. A set of 43 x 17 SX will run me $2350 shipped. If I can get enough from my tires and rims to cover new rims, I would do it. Anyone have some 17x10 rims with beadlocks they want to sell or trade?

16.5 h1s... It aint far off from bein done just don't have time to finish been workin ton of hours .... That great American dream of small business ownership

[Nuts]

Originally Posted by humpy

The 44 blem bogger rear and 43 Sx front

Themselves match the 43 with half inch.... I like the fat boggers myself

44x18x16.5? That's what I got but yours look skinnier???

[humpy]

Originally Posted by Nuts

44x18x16.5? That's what I got but yours look skinnier???

Story I my life lol

[93 Krawler]

Got my tires today.



Get my new rock rings tomorrow. These things are done...



Got my multi-port injection and cam in.



Should have my tires back on my rig tomorrow night.

[WrenchMonkey]

Daaaaaaaammnnn...

[93 Krawler]

Got them from national tire and wheel.

Sent from my Radar 4G using Board Express

[Redriverranger]

After you drop off the ledge, that first pass by the outcropping on the left and the tree is getting real narrow. I wouldn't worry about putting any fresh paint on before this run. The earth appears to be moving...

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by Redriverranger

After you drop off the ledge, that first pass by the outcropping on the left and the tree is getting real narrow. I wouldn't worry about putting any fresh paint on before this run. The earth appears to be moving...

Great, I had a hell of a time getting past it last year...

[underpowered]

Lions Den is one i want to give a shot in the ol' k5.

[93 Krawler]

Finally... I'll have traction!!!

[beer_goggles_009]

That's allot of spaghetti. Harlan in only a month away !

[93 Krawler]

Ok, here's a good one. I added a vss to the tail of the trans so the pcm wouldn't mess up the shifts when in 4 Low. There is no vss in any other spot. When I put it in 4 low, the spedo is off and it shifts super quick. How is this possible? The trans tail should not be affected by the tcase. I don't get it. Anyone?

[underpowered]

speed is off as your VSS is now before the T-case. so you will be going slow, but your VSS is still reading as if your setup is 1:1, not 2.72:1 that it is.

Even on my 4wd vehicles, the Vss has always been on the t-case and usually a switched contact in the PCM to recognize it is in low range to adjust shift points while still keeping the speedo correct since it is on the final output, not before the lower gearing the t-case provides

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by underpowered

speed is off as your VSS is now before the T-case. so you will be going slow, but your VSS is still reading as if your setup is 1:1, not 2.72:1 that it is.

Even on my 4wd vehicles, the Vss has always been on the t-case and usually a switched contact in the PCM to recognize it is in low range to adjust shift points while still keeping the speedo correct since it is on the final output, not before the lower gearing the t-case provides

The speedo and shifting is spot on in 2wd and 4 high. It is about 3x off (30=90) in 4 low. It acts as if the vss is still in the t-case. There are no wires on the t-case or t-case shifter at all. The speed of the trans output should not be affected by the t-case being in low, but somehow it is. Advanced adapters sells this kit http://www.advanceadapters.com/produ...-output-shaft/. I ordered the clamp on reluctor ring from them. I already had the VSS. This makes no sense at all. There is no way that the pcm knows the t-case is in low gear. It must be psychic...

[blazerbrad]

Sounds like the issue is because it does not know the t-case is in 4 low.

With the speed sensor on the trans lets say that when in high range, third gear (1:1) in the trans, and 2,000 engine rpm the speed sensor sends out a signal that equates to 45 mph. You now shift into low range, third gear in the trans, and 2,000 engine rpm and the speed sensor sends out the exact same signal and makes the ECM think you are still going 45 mph. However since the t-case is in low range the vehicle is actually only going about 16 mph (2.72 times slower...or about 3 times).

Do you still have the VSS on the tailhousing of the t-case that you could hook up?

[underpowered]

Originally Posted by blazerbrad

Sounds like the issue is because it does not know the t-case is in 4 low.

With the speed sensor on the trans lets say that when in high range, third gear (1:1) in the trans, and 2,000 engine rpm the speed sensor sends out a signal that equates to 45 mph. You now shift into low range, third gear in the trans, and 2,000 engine rpm and the speed sensor sends out the exact same signal and makes the ECM think you are still going 45 mph. However since the t-case is in low range the vehicle is actually only going about 16 mph (2.72 times slower...or about 3 times).

Do you still have the VSS on the tailhousing of the t-case that you could hook up?

this is what i was saying, he just said it better.

your Vss is before the gear reduction of the t-case so therefore the speedo is not accounting for the 2.72:1 gearing of the T-case when in low range. IMO use the VSS for the T-case and you should be just fine.

[93 Krawler]

Started having steering issues in Harlan last month. The power steering pump shaft broke. Had a spare, but it didn't work very long, so I figured it was a bad rebuild. Decided to do the west Texas mod to the flow control valve to increase bypass pressure. I also drilled out the pressure fitting from 5/32 to 11/64. 1/64 bigger... They say not to drill it bigger than 5/32, but did it anyway. Got it all back together, bled, and fired it up. Went lock to the driver side, smooth easy turn, went lock passenger and it made a noise and the steering got hard. I could rev it up and it would get easier, much like the spare pump I put on in Harlan. I figured that mod did it in, so I put another pump on it and removed the modded valve and tried it again. Lock driver was good, lock passenger made the pump die, bad, started pouring fluid out the can seal. It cracked the housing and blew out the cap on the back. I have a hard time believing that 1/64 bigger hole leaving the pump would do this. May be wrong, dunno. I'm leaning on the orbital being messed up. So I got another orbital, and new 5/32 pressure fitting, and I'm trying it again tonight. Anyone had this issue before? Anyone know of a place that would be able to check the orbital out?

[Drivermod]

I had lots of issues with pumps when I first built my buggy. I went through about 5 stock pumps and a KRC before I finally found the issue. I kept blowing out seals and even sheared off a pump shaft in one of the stock pumps. Ended up finding that the ram was eating itself up internally and sending small metal particulate through the system. I had a screen filter inline but the metal was small enough to pass through it. It appeared the metal was blocking the internal pressure release valve and causing the pumps to overpressurize and fail. Once I replaced the ram and thoroughly cleaned the system out I no longer had any issues.

[Ky Mudhunter]

The large hole in the output fitting should not cause any excessive pressure. If it is too big it will allow too much flow with not enough restriction (therefore no pressure) at low rpm. I know that one from personal experience .

I have blown the cap out of the back before also but never cracked the housing. How far did you go with the West Texas mod? I recommend only removing the factory shims and tightening the nut all of the way down. You can easily cause too much pressure if you start adding shims under the spring. That is how I blew the cap out on mine. If you want to mess around with the pressure I highly recommend putting a liquid filled gauge in the pressure line so you can see where you actually are at max pressure. I usually don't go over 2500 psi when you are at full lock.

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by Ky Mudhunter

The large hole in the output fitting should not cause any excessive pressure. If it is too big it will allow too much flow with not enough restriction (therefore no pressure) at low rpm. I know that one from personal experience .





I have blown the cap out of the back before also but never cracked the housing. How far did you go with the West Texas mod? I recommend only removing the factory shims and tightening the nut all of the way down. You can easily cause too much pressure if you start adding shims under the spring. That is how I blew the cap out on mine. If you want to mess around with the pressure I highly recommend putting a liquid filled gauge in the pressure line so you can see where you actually are at max pressure. I usually don't go over 2500 psi when you are at full lock.

I stretched out the spring to 2". I removed all the shims. I did the 1/16 shim and ground down the pin. I thought the same thing with the pressure fitting being too big. The shim mod was removed before the last pump imploded. So, I dunno.

[Ky Mudhunter]

Have you pulled the cap off the back of the cracked pump to look inside? I am thinking one of the vanes may have broke and gotten wedged inbetween the cam and rotor maybe???

Was that a rebuilt pump? I have seen a lot of bad pumps coming from the rebuilders lately for some reason.

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by Drivermod

I had lots of issues with pumps when I first built my buggy. I went through about 5 stock pumps and a KRC before I finally found the issue. I kept blowing out seals and even sheared off a pump shaft in one of the stock pumps. Ended up finding that the ram was eating itself up internally and sending small metal particulate through the system. I had a screen filter inline but the metal was small enough to pass through it. It appeared the metal was blocking the internal pressure release valve and causing the pumps to overpressurize and fail. Once I replaced the ram and thoroughly cleaned the system out I no longer had any issues.

I have a good paper filter in my reservoir, will have to check it for metal. When you changed pumps, was there a lot of metal on the magnet? I haven't seen any major metal on mine.