Go Back   C.O.R.E. FORUM > Campfire > Tech and How-To

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-15-2017, 09:10 AM   #1
nshefbuch
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: piqua, ohio
Posts: 76
HP D60 Passenger side drop?

Been thinking about cutting up a HP D60 and make it passenger side drop. Running leafs too.

Couldn't I cut out the long side and then cut it down to the length I need for the short side? I know I would have to move the center section a little to make room for the spring perch to be welded next to the housing. I'm already soa and outboarded for a Chevy axle. I want the HP and don't want to swap to an atlas. Have a clocked d300 now.

As for the long side I was thinking DOM and machine down the ends and reuse the inner C and factory outers. I would have to have custom inner shafts made but want to keep the outers factory length.

PS- I got the axle for free

Ryan.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
nshefbuch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2017, 12:25 PM
Waffle
This message has been deleted by Waffle.
Old 01-15-2017, 08:49 PM   #2
nshefbuch
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: piqua, ohio
Posts: 76
Thank you for your input.

I figured no big deal on custom inner shafts as I knew I would have to when moving the center section. I have access to the alignment tool actually from a club member but I need this to be able to drive on the highway too so may tack it all in place and then pay someone (thinking sunfire after seeing what they are doing to yours) to weld it all up and true.

I'm weighing this out and the option of an atlas and running the stock d60 driver side drop. I really like the idea of having a pass drop HP and it's uniqueness. I don't wheel really hard so a stock 60 would hold up fine for me. Currently on 37's and way down the road maybe 40's will be all I run as I do cruise around town in this often and only do mild wheeling with my family.

I've bought a lot of this off of CORE members actually. Current and formers.

Have Pats old cj7. Front axle from another member, also have a body swap I just finished I bought off of Tomcat.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
nshefbuch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2017, 09:15 PM
Waffle
This message has been deleted by Waffle.
Old 01-16-2017, 09:26 PM
Waffle
This message has been deleted by Waffle.
Old 01-16-2017, 10:02 PM   #3
nshefbuch
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: piqua, ohio
Posts: 76
Man thanks again for the advice.

I'm already soa and 3/4 ton d44 front and my rear is a 14 bolt I swapped to discs which I'll shave at some point. I plan to take my time building the front axle so I wouldn't need it done in a day. I want to regear as well and will regear and shave the rear when it's time to swap the front In. I've had these current axles in for about 5 or 6 years now.

Now is all research. When I did my first soa I spent like two years reading about it. Been reading up on the differences on d60's lately. Pirate has some good articles like brake bible and 14 bolt bible.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
nshefbuch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2017, 11:24 PM
Waffle
This message has been deleted by Waffle.
Old 01-17-2017, 06:33 AM   #4
nshefbuch
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: piqua, ohio
Posts: 76
I have seen this style before yes. I actually plan to do their full 13 bolt kit and get the ring gear shaved. Since I'll regear I may order it already shaved. I would rather go with the full kit as this boat anchor drags so much on 37's I prefer to take as much as I can off. Doesn't have to be done at the same time either. Wouldn't be hard to do later and just take the ring gear off another time and do the shave. I do most of my own work but I'm limited when it comes to machining work and welding up an axle. I recently used performance clinic to have my front bearing retainer on the d300 machined to accept a 32 spline output. I'm cheap but will spend the money in the right places. Thanks on the tip of ordering sooner than later. I may order it then and have it way before I need it. Didn't realize you may have to wait that long.

Ryan


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
nshefbuch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2017, 01:07 PM
Waffle
This message has been deleted by Waffle.
Old 01-17-2017, 01:35 PM   #5
blazerbrad
- CORE Member -
 
blazerbrad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 831
Images: 6
For the 14-bolt, assuming you haven't touched it you can trim off the lip that hangs down on the bottom edge and smooth it out. You can easily gain 3/4" of clearance and make it slide over obstacles easier because you don't have the big "hook" hanging down. I re-used the factory diff cover by trimming off the bottom and reinforcing it. Of course I'm cheap and this only cost me a few cut-off and grinding wheels and a few hours of time.
blazerbrad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2017, 08:07 PM   #6
nshefbuch
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: piqua, ohio
Posts: 76
I did have the 13 and 15 bolt kit confused.

I haven't even trimmed mine. Been running it in stock form for 5-6 years now. Only thing Ive done is a Detroit and disc swap. Haven't been on rocks much till the last few years. Want to get into that more and stay out of the mud some.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
nshefbuch is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:17 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 2021, C.O.R.E. All rights reserved.