02-10-2016, 10:03 PM | #176 |
Mechanical Animal
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Wait, why are you moving the front forward 4.5"? You don't hit now, do you?
If your cab is 57", and you've got 21" rear clearance, a 68" cab will leave 10". Probably more, since 68 was to the fender, and you'll certainly gain some there.
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02-11-2016, 01:56 AM | #177 |
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Ah, gotcha.
But that wouldn't necessarily move the tires farther from the cab. Unless the 5.3 is right against the firewall, you could move the cab up too. Figure you're probably already looking at a custom trans tunnel.
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02-11-2016, 11:25 AM | #178 |
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I guess I'm asking if the front of the S10 cab has to stay right where the front of the 1500 cab is.
Since the axle is moving forward, there will be room to move the cab forward without running into tire clearance issues. The limit becomes the firewall hitting the engine. I don't know how much room there is to play with there.
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02-11-2016, 01:17 PM | #179 | |
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Quote:
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02-11-2016, 01:42 PM | #180 |
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My tires do rub the frame and body mount a little at full stuff while turning. If I never planned to go bigger than a 39.5, then I would only move the axle forward 1". But, if I do want to a 43, I want the clearance to do so. I guess I'd only have to move it forward 3" or so, it depends on how the frame is for the s10. I might only have to go 2". That will still make the rear around 7-8" between. Still doesn't sound like much...
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02-12-2016, 11:56 AM | #181 |
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I've found a lot of ext cab s10 truggy's online that I like so that's the route I'm going. I really like this one except I would chop the front off and tube it, and lose the spare tire.
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02-12-2016, 12:41 PM | #182 |
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That's awesome.
You're keeping doors n windows right?
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02-12-2016, 07:58 PM | #184 |
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I really like the direction you are going with this!
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02-13-2016, 01:00 PM | #185 |
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Going tomorrow to look at this one. http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/5437108199.html
If the rust isn't too bad, I'll grab it. Looks like I'll be keeping that other 5.3 for mock up purposes. It already has a 4l60e, so all I need is a tcase from upull and I'll be set. I figure I can get some pipe to mock up the axles. I should be able to build most of it before I need the parts off the 93. Don't want to miss any wheelin trips... |
02-13-2016, 05:46 PM | #186 |
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The silver and teal is a nice look...
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02-14-2016, 02:44 PM | #188 |
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Ah, and so it begins!
Congrats!
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02-15-2016, 07:43 PM | #189 |
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Thanks. Got it for $400, and it looks like a $400 car. It needs some love on the inside for sure... I think someone lived in it. A trip to you pull will fix that. Once I rip the seats and carpet out it will look a lot better. Frame is in good shape, body isn't bad. There is a little rust on the cab corner, but overall, in good shape for a off-road rig.
It will be a while before I do anything to it. It has 4" of snow on it now. I still have to get the big rig ready for wheelin season. That is priority. |
03-14-2016, 09:06 PM | #190 |
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Ever since I put the 5.3 in the rig, there was always some throttle issues, as in, when I mash it, it wouldn't go. More like I'll go when I feel like it. I told the guy that removed all the extra bs in the PCM that something wasn't right. I referred him to a link that told exactly how to remove the torque management and dropped it off to him. That didn't help much, so I figured he didn't do it. That left me with a decision to either take the rig to a tuner or buy a tuner and do it myself. I opted to buy HT Tuner Pro. I know I am nowhere close to knowing what a tuner knows, but it will allow me to see if the TM is still in it. I will learn how to tune in time.
I checked the tune and he removed most of the engine TM, but left all the transmission TM in. I will remove it all and see how it does next month at Rush. |
06-06-2016, 07:32 PM | #191 |
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In Harlan I killed a 60 u-joint and it took out my moly inner, so I'm in the market for some good joints and at least an inner to replace the one I broke.
I came across these, http://completeoffroad.com/i-133846-...s-w-26012.html Seems like a good deal for a complete set. Has anyone ever dealt with complete off-road before? A warranty is only as good as the company issuing it. |
06-06-2016, 08:16 PM | #192 | |
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Quote:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/c...ation-1044239/ that does seem like a good price,,, and the company has been around for a while now it seems |
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06-07-2016, 12:18 AM | #193 |
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I bought my chromo shafts for my 44 from them. When I broke one and called them for warranty the company had changed owners. The previous owner sold multiple brand shafts and did not mark on the invoice which brand he sold you. The new ownership could not find a record of my invoice ( which they explained was common with the previous owner). They had me e-mail them pics of the shaft and my invoice. After seeing the pics, they got me setup to send the broken shaft in for warranty. Took some time and a couple phone calls but they took care of me. I would recommend them.
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06-07-2016, 12:18 PM | #195 |
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Yeah, no way I'm getting RCV's. These are the shaft's I have now. They came in a Yukon box. http://shop.broncograveyard.com/D60-...uctinfo/11796/
I was wondering about the "super joints" too. I'll have to check into that. Feel free to call them if your bored Mark. |
06-07-2016, 01:12 PM | #196 |
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Ok, did some digging on USA standard products which is the brand I think those shafts are. They are Yukon products that are not met to quality specs, so a blem you might say. That's why they are so cheap. Wonder if the super joints are the same blem?
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06-07-2016, 01:31 PM | #197 |
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I have a set of dana 44 shafts from complete off road. They are Yukon axles shafts with super joints.
they have two different grades; one with American made metal and one with metal made in India. my money is that these are the ones with metal from India.
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06-07-2016, 01:49 PM | #198 | |
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Quote:
Same PN from USA standard. http://www.usastandardgear.com/produ...x?ProdID=11657 http://completeoffroad.com/i-133846-...s-w-26012.html |
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06-08-2016, 09:35 AM | #199 |
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Havent run any of them yet, so i can only comment on what i have read and researched. My understanding has been...
Yukon Superjoints are not offered (that im aware of) in 300M, and the CTM's can be 4340 or 300m. CTM makes everything in house and will make the joint out of whatever....but will only warranty the 300m's. Longfields, Nitro Excalibur's and the Ouverson Violators are only offered in 300m. Best value - Yukon Superjoints or Longfields. Best quality - CTM ("Drive home" joints) Worst quality - Nitro Excaliburs. Cheap price, but this was bobby longs old patent that he sold to nitro when he redesigned the current Longfield. Chase @ ECGS wont even sell them to you (willingly), because they've had an abundance of warrantied joints. The design prevents/starves the caps from getting the necessary grease. I was leaning heavily towards the Ouverson Violators, but after some lengthy discussion with Randy @ Ouverson and Scott Morris about availability (extremely slow production out of Ouverson) concerns....i steered away. I think the perception about the Longfields is incorrect because theyre sold by Trail Gear. I wouldn't hesitate at all to run the Longfields; tons of guys running their D60 joints with great success and next to zero failures. I would recommend a call to Chase @ ECGS. He hooked up me up really well on my 35 spline 4340 shaft setup with Yukon Superjoints.
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12-02-2017, 11:54 PM | #200 |
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Took the heavy Chevy to get it weighed before it gets disassembled. This is with the stuff i carry in the big box, no tool box, but parts, fluids etc, full doors, half tank of gas, and me in it. Definitely shootin for way less on the s10.
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