02-27-2013, 08:26 AM | #1 |
Goats on the Roof!
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 62
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BlueOx build
Hopefully the name hasnt been taken already. I've always called my truck that. 2003 Silverado thats been through the wrenches. Its been in two wrecks, neither my fault...so once the trans went, that was the last straw for me. Plans are leaf sprung 52's, 4.88's, 37's/Hummer beadlocks combo from Trailworthfab.com. It will be a dual purpose vehicle. No thrashing till exo, shorten rear, and no bed. On with the pics...
I always liked this pic NP241C D-drop Gear pattern for 9.5 BTF diff cover Closeup Running stock brakes, poor tape measure U-bolt flip Shackle flip 1330-1350 conversion u-joint 9.5 Installed Press brake that is functional, but still needs some work Trans parts, piece of .375", 9/16" socket Locking collar needs some work Start of winch bumper, .375" base plate, .188" brackets holes matching to frame for bolt on, 14* bends on bottom piece, tube is 1.75" .188" wall CREW Got this hunk of **** for 1K locally, man it needs work Any body need an HSA? '78 Missing a couple lockout pieces on both sides Rear end pic And a face to match the name, poser shot, stock truck Currently I'm waiting on '89 rotors and new 14x1.5 studs. I'm currently searching for hub parts, have some not local friends with parts, but I'm thinking my best bet is a boneyard. Thats its for now. More to come. |
02-27-2013, 10:07 AM | #2 |
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Piner, KY
Posts: 141
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Looks like a great start. I would love to have a SAS truck like this.
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JT Jones 83 Toyota - beater 87 Toyota Truggy |
02-27-2013, 08:28 PM | #3 |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Waverly ohio
Posts: 586
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histeer arm looks like death trap, **** mud boggers do! id keep bed and dovetail for looks, also it will not stay dual purpose for long so spend wisely so you aint upgrading suspension each year. b a fun trail rig fo sho
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SMITH BUILT PERIOD |
02-27-2013, 10:32 PM | #4 |
They call me......Scuba
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Burlington, KY
Posts: 292
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i would have loved to do this to my 03 instead of selling it.
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beat up rusted out k5 |
02-28-2013, 12:22 PM | #5 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 188
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?...why do you have a ford front end for a chevy truck unless you are planning to change a lot of stuff.?
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95 yj, fresh fuel injected 302, c-6, twin sticked 205, 3 linked high pinion d60 front, double trianulated 4 linked 14 bolt rear (all aluminum links) locked both ends, 4:56 gears, full hydro steering, high steer, 4 wheel discs, 16" 2.5 fox air shocks, 39.5" irok's. just finishing a full frame-up redo thanks to a great friend and one knowledgable(sp?) s.o.b casey cravens for without him this could not have been done in such a short time and done right! LOOK OUT "WHITEY" HERE I COME!!! |
02-28-2013, 02:00 PM | #6 |
Goats on the Roof!
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I want to shorten wheelbase at that time. Probably wouldnt be street legal then. Plan is to upgrade when it breaks, unfortunately not if, but when.
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02-28-2013, 02:06 PM | #7 |
Goats on the Roof!
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Posts: 62
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02-28-2013, 06:28 PM | #8 |
Goats on the Roof!
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 62
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02-28-2013, 10:25 PM | #9 |
They call me......Scuba
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Burlington, KY
Posts: 292
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have to change more stuff to use a chevy front end. IFS GM trucks are drivers drop from the factory, where as GM SFA trucks were all passenger drop. Ford axles are drivers drop, so easier to swap to match the stock front output side.
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beat up rusted out k5 |
02-28-2013, 11:27 PM | #10 |
Goats on the Roof!
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Posts: 62
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I figured I'd see you on here sooner than later. I also swapped in the NP241 and floor shifter, which is pretty much the same as any Heep NP231. I'm looking for a 205/208 flange so I can run a 1350CV d-shaft. Bessler had a Red 73-87K10 that I was going to steal the flange and rear springs from. I couldnt get the flange off without battery powered impact, so I had to come back. When I did, it was gone. I just remembered Jacks, which is about 5 min from my house, they have all kinds of fun stuff!
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03-01-2013, 02:06 AM | #11 |
Ready to Wheel!!!!!!!
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Stanton, KY
Posts: 263
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Exo it quick!! Yota drivers depend on us full-size rigs to widen the trails,,
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1994 Dodge Ram 5.9L SWB 3/4 axles, 39.5 IROKS, HYDRO assist |
03-01-2013, 07:55 AM | #12 |
Goats on the Roof!
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Posts: 62
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03-01-2013, 10:53 AM | #13 |
>>>PMC<<<
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When I first did my SAS, I had a cv shaft made to fit the stock 241 flange. I killed the cv first trip to Harlan, so I improvised. I bought a 1350 205 u-bolt style yoke, took the stock 241 flange and cut the end off so the 241 and 205 were the same length as the stock 241 yoke. After some grinding, it got better angles than the original CV did. I also had to notch the cross member so the shaft didn't hit it as the front end drops out. I'm sure I could have had a high dollar cv shaft made, but this way cheaper. The joints do wear more than usual because of the steeper angle, so I use the Moog 231 super joint that has a lifetime warranty from most parts stores. Advance seems to have the most stores, so I use them. Good luck with your build.
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03-01-2013, 11:06 AM | #14 | |
Goats on the Roof!
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 62
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Quote:
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03-05-2013, 08:09 AM | #15 |
Goats on the Roof!
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 62
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Do you have a link for a build thread? Or an image placeholder? I'm currently working on the brackets. I'll be buying more tube and springs next month.
http://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/22-553.htm |
03-05-2013, 12:52 PM | #16 | |
>>>PMC<<<
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Quote:
I used a 4" lift 52" rear spring in the front, and the stock 63" with a 2" add a leaf, 4" blocks, shackle flip, and a 6" shackle. The allowed me to barely clear 39.5" tires in the front. Even after trimming/pounding the fender/firewall, they still rubbed the outer lugs on the tires at full stuff. Only after I tubed the front and aced the fenders did it stop rubbing. I kept the 117" wheelbase, but had I moved the axle up an inch, that should have fixed the rubbing. |
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03-11-2013, 05:49 PM | #17 |
Goats on the Roof!
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 62
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A couple questions:
1. Does anybody have any Spicer D60 parts laying around that they dont need? As you can see I'm missing some. I tried Bessler and Jacks, but without luck. 2. Does anyone work for a machine shop or know someone who could bore out the opening on my D44 caliper brackets to fit the D60? Everything but the center bore on the brackets is the same. I've tried calling around with 0 luck. And some fun... The base idea Coming along, I've since rounded those sharp corners on the ears and drilled holes for rosette welding, I'll also do two horizontal gussets between the ears and vertical gussets. Shackle |
03-11-2013, 06:33 PM | #18 |
Really???
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Cincy
Posts: 678
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94dodgetruggy may be able to assist you with the machine work. I have heard that he does this type stuff...???
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03-11-2013, 10:49 PM | #19 |
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This was the first design, but it allowed the body to move when I tried to steer. So I had to do it a little different and go hydro.
And the second design, which is on it now. |
03-12-2013, 01:49 AM | #21 |
Ready to Wheel!!!!!!!
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Stanton, KY
Posts: 263
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WOW, what happened? Looks awesome!
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1994 Dodge Ram 5.9L SWB 3/4 axles, 39.5 IROKS, HYDRO assist |
03-18-2013, 05:32 AM | #22 | |||
Goats on the Roof!
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Posts: 62
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Last edited by BillysGruff; 03-18-2013 at 10:09 AM. |
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03-18-2013, 07:24 AM | #23 |
Really???
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Cincy
Posts: 678
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94Dodge Truggy
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One Country, One Flag, One Language...
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03-18-2013, 01:40 PM | #24 | |
>>>PMC<<<
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Quote:
It has 4 - 27 watt LED lights on it now. |
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03-25-2013, 04:44 PM | #25 |
Goats on the Roof!
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 62
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Exhibit A contains a 2 x 3 x 1/4" wall soon to be x-member, two (2) 1.75 x 3/16" upper bumper pieces for under the headlights and front part of fender w/50* bends @14.5". I need to cut off 18" from the ends. I have a fourth piece that I'll sleeve on both ends.
It just so happends that a d-side D44 axle shaft is ~1.375" and fits very well inside 1.75" tube to be used as sleeves. An example of using part of the axle shaft as a sleeve. I'll drill and plug weld later. I should have done this from the get go, ah well. Got one at a time cause it saved me 20 bucks. *Important question* Do I need to have two locking sleeves for springs? I wonder why they would only include one? There isnt a hole on the backside for a rivet either. 1/2" spring plate I made....jk Barnes deserves all the credit on their fantastic products Bought new shackles instead of using the ones I made, 9/16" bolts/nuts/washers acquired All cleaned up, need prime and paint Ebay 99.99 special. I dont need any o-ring seals with these, do I? 39/64" drilled, all cleaned up and ready for pressing. I'd have these finished but I didnt get the right seals from Rockauto. Improved the locking collar, those two pieces are welded togther. Gettin there. Going to gusset the ears and vertical gusset for added strength. The drill bit dulled as I was drilling these out. |
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