Before & After - My 1993 K1500

[93 Krawler]

The pcm will shift out of manual 1st to 2nd at the WOT setting specified in the tables. You can start in 2nd, but if stomp on it it will kick into 1st. The easiest way to solve this is to use a shift kit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tr...-hd2/overview/ It is exactly what I want. The last kit I did I set the shift firmness to towing so it didn't snap hard. It was fine in 2 hi, but 4 lo was was harsh at higher rpms. I might leave the firmness stock and have the firmness adjusted in the pcm. I do think hooking up the 4 lo wire will help with shifting in drive, but that's it. For now, I will hook the 4 lo wire up and deal with it. I just changed the fluid and flushed it out with Dex 6, so I'm thinking this winter I'll do something. That was like $100 in trans fluid...

[93 Krawler]

The wire I should've left intact. DOH!!!

[93 Krawler]

I pulled the harness mostly back out so I could run the 4 lo wire and see what the deal was with the MAF sensor. I was thinking that I attached one to many black/white ground wires together. GM uses black and black/white wires for sensor wires too, not just grounds. Well, that wasn't the problem, they were all good. When I shortened the harness, I staggered the solder connections so there wasn't any next to each other and used shrink tube. For whatever reason, I didn't stagger the MAF wires. Well the shrink tube shrank too far, and a few pointy soldered wires were sticking out and touching the other wire. I fixed those and now the IAT reads within 2 degrees of the coolant temp, or room temp... I'll know tomorrow how the 4 lo wire works out.

[tbshakie]

that has to be frustrating as hell. I am glad that you are making progress.

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by tbshakie

that has to be frustrating as hell. I am glad that you are making progress.

Yes, very Hopefully it will run like it should now.

Anyone ever run Tom woods off set u-joints? Curious to see how they hold up.
My front t-case joint binds some at full droop, so I bought one hoping it won't bind anymore. I usually have to service that joint after every ride.

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[tbshakie]

I don't know anyone that runs them. Have read they vibrate like hell at anything over crawling speed, but I do NOT have any first hand experience.

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by tbshakie

I don't know anyone that runs them. Have read they vibrate like hell at anything over crawling speed, but I do NOT have any first hand experience.

My front shaft is made with AG spline, so I'm sure I won't notice any extra vibrations.

[93 Krawler]

I took it for a spin today, and it runs great now. IAT temps are right where they should be. The speed is now correct in 4 lo too. Looks like I'm good to go. Windrock here I come.

[blazerbrad]

Out of curiosity, did you now have the VSS on the transfer case or transmission? Glad to hear it is running better now. Now it's time to tear it back out for a cam and a shift kit!

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by blazerbrad

Out of curiosity, did you now have the VSS on the transfer case or transmission? Glad to hear it is running better now. Now it's time to tear it back out for a cam and a shift kit!

It's on the tcase now. There may be a cam in the future, but I'm done for a while...

[93 Krawler]

Started having steering issues in Harlan last month. The power steering pump shaft broke. Had a spare, but it didn't work very long, so I figured it was a bad rebuild. Decided to do the west Texas mod to the flow control valve to increase bypass pressure. I also drilled out the pressure fitting from 5/32 to 11/64. 1/64 bigger... They say not to drill it bigger than 5/32, but did it anyway. Got it all back together, bled, and fired it up. Went lock to the driver side, smooth easy turn, went lock passenger and it made a noise and the steering got hard. I could rev it up and it would get easier, much like the spare pump I put on in Harlan. I figured that mod did it in, so I put another pump on it and removed the modded valve and tried it again. Lock driver was good, lock passenger made the pump die, bad, started pouring fluid out the can seal. It cracked the housing and blew out the cap on the back. I have a hard time believing that 1/64 bigger hole leaving the pump would do this. May be wrong, dunno. I'm leaning on the orbital being messed up. So I got another orbital, and new 5/32 pressure fitting, and I'm trying it again tonight. Anyone had this issue before? Anyone know of a place that would be able to check the orbital out?

[Drivermod]

I had lots of issues with pumps when I first built my buggy. I went through about 5 stock pumps and a KRC before I finally found the issue. I kept blowing out seals and even sheared off a pump shaft in one of the stock pumps. Ended up finding that the ram was eating itself up internally and sending small metal particulate through the system. I had a screen filter inline but the metal was small enough to pass through it. It appeared the metal was blocking the internal pressure release valve and causing the pumps to overpressurize and fail. Once I replaced the ram and thoroughly cleaned the system out I no longer had any issues.

[Ky Mudhunter]

The large hole in the output fitting should not cause any excessive pressure. If it is too big it will allow too much flow with not enough restriction (therefore no pressure) at low rpm. I know that one from personal experience .

I have blown the cap out of the back before also but never cracked the housing. How far did you go with the West Texas mod? I recommend only removing the factory shims and tightening the nut all of the way down. You can easily cause too much pressure if you start adding shims under the spring. That is how I blew the cap out on mine. If you want to mess around with the pressure I highly recommend putting a liquid filled gauge in the pressure line so you can see where you actually are at max pressure. I usually don't go over 2500 psi when you are at full lock.

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by Drivermod

I had lots of issues with pumps when I first built my buggy. I went through about 5 stock pumps and a KRC before I finally found the issue. I kept blowing out seals and even sheared off a pump shaft in one of the stock pumps. Ended up finding that the ram was eating itself up internally and sending small metal particulate through the system. I had a screen filter inline but the metal was small enough to pass through it. It appeared the metal was blocking the internal pressure release valve and causing the pumps to overpressurize and fail. Once I replaced the ram and thoroughly cleaned the system out I no longer had any issues.

I have a good paper filter in my reservoir, will have to check it for metal. When you changed pumps, was there a lot of metal on the magnet? I haven't seen any major metal on mine.

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by Ky Mudhunter

The large hole in the output fitting should not cause any excessive pressure. If it is too big it will allow too much flow with not enough restriction (therefore no pressure) at low rpm. I know that one from personal experience .





I have blown the cap out of the back before also but never cracked the housing. How far did you go with the West Texas mod? I recommend only removing the factory shims and tightening the nut all of the way down. You can easily cause too much pressure if you start adding shims under the spring. That is how I blew the cap out on mine. If you want to mess around with the pressure I highly recommend putting a liquid filled gauge in the pressure line so you can see where you actually are at max pressure. I usually don't go over 2500 psi when you are at full lock.

I stretched out the spring to 2". I removed all the shims. I did the 1/16 shim and ground down the pin. I thought the same thing with the pressure fitting being too big. The shim mod was removed before the last pump imploded. So, I dunno.

[Ky Mudhunter]

Have you pulled the cap off the back of the cracked pump to look inside? I am thinking one of the vanes may have broke and gotten wedged inbetween the cam and rotor maybe???

Was that a rebuilt pump? I have seen a lot of bad pumps coming from the rebuilders lately for some reason.

[Drivermod]

Originally Posted by 93 Krawler

I have a good paper filter in my reservoir, will have to check it for metal. When you changed pumps, was there a lot of metal on the magnet? I haven't seen any major metal on mine.

Very little metal on the magnets but thats because the piston inside the ram was aluminum. The cylinder walls were scored which in turn started chewing up the piston sending small aluminum particles throughout the system. I ended up replacing the ram and all the lines along with putting a 5 micron filter in the return line. I probably didn't have to replace the lines but didn't want to chance ruining my new KRC pump and ram.

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by Ky Mudhunter

Have you pulled the cap off the back of the cracked pump to look inside? I am thinking one of the vanes may have broke and gotten wedged in between the cam and rotor maybe???

Was that a rebuilt pump? I have seen a lot of bad pumps coming from the rebuilders lately for some reason.

I haven't pulled the cap off yet. I would imagine the internals are a mess. There is about 1/2" of play in the pump shaft now.

Yes, was rebuilt.

I ordered a new fitting from Jegs on Sunday to replace the one I drilled out an extra 1/64. They shipped it out USPS on Monday. Figured I'd get in Tuesday like I normally would, not... Only the USPS can take over 2 days to make a 4 hr drive. Then they're closed today, so I won't get it till Thursday. I'm about ready to put the drilled one back on so I can be ready to leave for Rush Friday.

[Ky Mudhunter]

As long as you still had pressure at idle, I wouldn't hesitate to put the oversize fitting in and run it.

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by Ky Mudhunter

As long as you still had pressure at idle, I wouldn't hesitate to put the oversize fitting in and run it.

The pumps didn't last long enough to find out. Worse case steering is a little slow.

[93 Krawler]

Well, killed another pump. This time it died when I went driver lock. Is it bad to run the engine with the ram disconnected? I bled it with the engine off, then after no more air, I started it and slowly went back and forth not hitting lock. After all seemed OK, i went passenger lock and it bypassed, then driver to lock slowly and pop, pump was done. All was done with the ram disconnected. This is getting old...

[Ky Mudhunter]

I don't think you can hurt anything with the ram disconnected. When you hit full lock you are stopping all flow through the lines anyway and the extra fluid should going through the by-pass valve. I agree with Waffle, I think you need to install a pressure gauge so that you can find out what the pressure is doing when you hit full lock.

[93 Krawler]

If I install a gauge, won't i just kill another pump? This one has no pressure at all.

[blazerbrad]

Are you re-using the same output assembly (output fitting, spring, pin, etc...) when you switch the pumps? Just trying to figure out what is in common between all the failed pumps, and wondering if maybe the pressure bypass is sticking. I've had it stick open on mine, meaning it was just bypassing all of the pressure and felt like the pump died. I could also see it be stuck closed and not bypass which could also kill the pump.

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by blazerbrad

Are you re-using the same output assembly (output fitting, spring, pin, etc...) when you switch the pumps? Just trying to figure out what is in common between all the failed pumps, and wondering if maybe the pressure bypass is sticking. I've had it stick open on mine, meaning it was just bypassing all of the pressure and felt like the pump died. I could also see it be stuck closed and not bypass which could also kill the pump.

The only thing in common last time was the output fitting, the one I drilled out 1/64 bigger than recommended. I used the same spring and piston that came in the new pump. I did remove the shims under the nut.
I'm going to try it one more time and do no mods to the pump at all.