Before & After - My 1993 K1500

[93 Krawler]

Finally brought the rig back in the garage after evicting it last month for being a pain. Put on another pump, no mods at all, 100% factory, and it works killer. Better steering than I ever had before. It's about frigging time...

[Drivermod]

Originally Posted by 93 Krawler

Finally brought the rig back in the garage after evicting it last month for being a pain. Put on another pump, no mods at all, 100% factory, and it works killer. Better steering than I ever had before. It's about frigging time...

Good to hear. I feel your pain.

[tbshakie]

so what did you do to fix it?

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by tbshakie

so what did you do to fix it?

Removed all the mods and made it stock. I think the orbital I got from waffle made it steer easier, but it seems like it will take more turns to get lock to lock. I recall him saying that when it was on his. I do like the finger steer though.

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by Waffle

I think this is correct: If your at more turns lock to lock now but it turns with less effort, then that orbital you have now is requiring less gpm from your pump and puts you under the gpm max that the pump will supply. Changing to a faster lock to lock valve can be too much for the pump and you'll begin to feel resistance in the steering. This is what happened to me. My old orbital (on your rig) steered with one finger, but it was 4 turns lock to lock. My new orbital is under 3 turns LTL but it's no longer 1 finger friendly. This is why I plan on going to a higher gpm and pressure CBR pump.

My old orbital was 1.5 each way like yours. When you get yours right, I'll copy it.

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by Waffle

Whoa! 1.5? Each way? No wonder you had issues. My current setup is 2.5 one way and just under 3 the other. With my old valve is was closer to 3.5 left and just over 4 right.

Four full turns one way.... wow... Are you sure? That seems nuts. You must be thinking total turns. My van only turns 1 3/4 turns each way. I'll have to check the rig tonight to see.

I have the 125 (7.6) valve.
orbital Rating
in ml/rev
(c.i./rev.) 6-Inch Ram 8-Inch Ram 10-Inch Ram
100 (6.1) 2.7 3.6 4.5
125 (7.6) 2.2 2.9 3.6
160 (9.8) 1.7 2.3 2.8

https://www.trail-gear.com/TG/Orbita...043-1-KIT.aspx

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by Waffle

Turns lock to lock in an unbalanced system (SE cylinder) is measured from left steering stop over to right steering stop and then back again, right steering stop to left steering stop. You'll have two different numbers. Sounds like your measuring from the wheel being centered over to either stop.
.
That trail-gear info is regarding one particular diameter cylinder though. My 8" cylinder is small at 2-1/4". Yours is 8 x 2-1/2" and will have diff results just like a 8 x 3" will differ as well.

Pretty sure the term lock to lock is from one side to the other.

[WrenchMonkey]

Originally Posted by Waffle

Turns lock to lock in an unbalanced system (SE cylinder) is measured from left steering stop over to right steering stop and then back again, right steering stop to left steering stop. You'll have two different numbers...

That can't be right. I certainly know exactly squat about hydro steering, but you're saying LTL takes 3.5 turns left to right, and 4 turns right to left? So from straight ahead to left lock takes two turns (half of LTL), but getting back to straight ahead only takes 1.75?

That would put the steering wheel in a different position after every turn.

[93 Krawler]

Ok, I checked my rig and from left to right was 4 turns, and from right to left was 5 turns. My old one was way less than that. I have a feeling I will be changing this out for my old one real soon. That's a whole lot of steering...

Robert, my steering wheel is never in the same position.

[WrenchMonkey]

Originally Posted by 93 Krawler

Robert, my steering wheel is never in the same position.

That would drive me NUTS.

I'll shut the hell up now and let the grownups talk.

[underpowered]

Originally Posted by WrenchMonkey

That would drive me NUTS.

I'll shut the hell up now and let the grownups talk.

big downside of a Single ended cylinder is the uneven steering.

mine should be about 3 LTL when done. My brothers truck is way to slow at like 4 one way and almost 5 and a half the other. scary at any sort of speed over a crawl when trying to make a quick turn.

[93 Krawler]

I have decided to lose some weight on my rig, like everything but my drive train. I just want something lighter and slimmer. So I'm going to start collecting parts for an S10 build. I plan on a 4 link front and rear, and a tube chassis. I want to do an extended cab, but not if my wheelbase will be more than 117". I need to get dog house measurements on standard and extended cabs. Anyone on here have one they can measure?

[WrenchMonkey]

I like this plan.

There's a guy on dayshift that dailys an extended cab. I could grab some quick numbers to get you started.

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by WrenchMonkey

I like this plan.





There's a guy on dayshift that dailys an extended cab. I could grab some quick numbers to get you started.

That would be great. Thx. The most important measurement is from the cab rear to the cab front. I can measure out the wheelbase from that.

[WrenchMonkey]

Cab front? The leading edge of the bottom of the door?

Like this?

[Ky Mudhunter]

I have both a regular cab and extended cab 1st gen trucks. I can get you measurements of them if you want. I would sell the extended cab if you are interested. It is just a body, no frame. The bed was shortened to fit the wheelbase on a k5 frame.

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by WrenchMonkey

Cab front? The leading edge of the bottom of the door?

Like this?

Cab front or where ever the tire would rub minus the fender.

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by Ky Mudhunter

I have both a regular cab and extended cab 1st gen trucks. I can get you measurements of them if you want. I would sell the extended cab if you are interested. It is just a body, no frame. The bed was shortened to fit the wheelbase on a k5 frame.

I'm looking for a 2nd gen, but the measurements should be close. If you could get some measurements that would be great.

[Ky Mudhunter]

I figured you might be looking for 2nd gen. That's why I would sell the ext cab. I am putting a 2nd gen S10 blazer body on the K5 frame.

I'll try to get some measurement tonight if I don't forget.

[blazerbrad]

Originally Posted by Ky Mudhunter

I have both a regular cab and extended cab 1st gen trucks. I can get you measurements of them if you want. I would sell the extended cab if you are interested. It is just a body, no frame. The bed was shortened to fit the wheelbase on a k5 frame.

Just for reference purposes.

Stock wheelbase for extended cab S-10 (1st and 2nd gen) is 122.9".

The factory K5 wheelbase is 106.5" in regards to the picture above with an extended cab S-10 on a K5 frame, and assuming he kept the axles in the same location.

Assuming you want to keep it pretty low the front axle will need to be stretched forward quite a bit to clear the firewall with 39.5" tires, plus it will help with approach angles. I think you will be able to stay right around 117" but probably won't have a lot of play room without getting into the cab with either the front or rear tires.

[Ky Mudhunter]

Brad, yes the axles were kept in stock location. The cab was positioned so that front axle was moved forward about 6" from stock S10. The front of the bed was shortened and the cab corners were cut to clear the rear tires. FYI those are 38's on it in that pic.

[93 Krawler]

My cab is 57". I betting the extendo cab is going to be too big.
This is what i'm thinking minus the rockwells and the bars across the doors.

[Ky Mudhunter]

Reg cab is 54" and the ext cab is 69" for the 1st gen trucks.

[WrenchMonkey]

His extended cab is 68.5" from the back of the cab to the lip of the front fender, measured along the rocker.

That's 20.5 for the extended cab, 44 for the door, and 4 for the fender.

There's probably a couple inches to be gained between that lip and the front corner of the actual cab, but I couldn't verify without pulling out the fender liner.

[93 Krawler]

Lets do some math. I currently have 21" between the rear of the cab and the rear tire. If I move the front forward 4.5", the rear goes the same to keep my 117". Now I have 16.5" between. subtract another 12" for the ext cab and now I have 4" between. I could probably cheat 1-2" from the front since the cab isn't as wide and the cab mounts should be different. It will clear, but won't it look weird with the cab that close in the rear. I know, I can cut the cab down so it's the same size as my cab. I don't know if I'll like the cab being 3" smaller. There's barely enough leg room now. I'd have to sit at a 90 degree angle... I need to sit in a reg cab and see.