04-09-2008, 11:42 AM | #176 |
pimpin' IS easy
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Tank mounts finalized... mounted the two clamps together in between to a bar coming from the rear of the chassis. welded tubing nubs to the bottom tube where they sit to hold them side to side. They fit tight, but i can still get them in and out. The more i do it, the better they will move, as the paint gets worn off the clamps, etc.
Still may do a clamp off the back top to hold the tanks down better, just for peace of mind. took delivery on my see-thru tanks... not happy with them, may not run them. The plastic shell on the outside is super chincy and feels very brittle. Not sure if iwill even put them in to test fit them. Might make someone a good deal on trades.
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04-09-2008, 11:49 AM | #177 |
pimpin' IS easy
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So, reading the directions on my Derale coolers, it says they are made with more than enough air gab to be mounted against a flat area. So, i decided to put mine on the fenderwells, up by the firewall. The fans are pullers. Then thinking that they might be pulling hot air only, i decided to drill a ton of perforation type holes in the fender top steel where they sit. That way they can get some cooler air.
I have decided to not use the radiator to do any trans cooling at all, and only use this auxiliary one. If it needs more, i will add another cooler, but i have serious fears of my radiator not doing its job with this big block.
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04-09-2008, 11:59 AM | #178 |
pimpin' IS easy
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I am going to lengthen the uppers slightly, but the only way i can do it is by mounting location, so it adjust my suspension as well, and for the worse in that direction. Good suggestion tho, wish i could... my links have no adjustment.
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04-09-2008, 12:01 PM | #179 |
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: independence ky
Posts: 21
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Valve covers gain you 2 cool points.
Lookin good. |
04-09-2008, 12:27 PM | #182 |
EX-Vice President
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Uh oh! :( All I ask is that you don't run me over! You will not be able to see me looking out from your rig I believe.
Last edited by 94Dodge Truggy; 04-09-2008 at 12:59 PM. |
04-09-2008, 02:13 PM | #184 |
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It is just chugging along. Just slow so that it is done right the 1st time. Still gathering bits too! (need another front axle for rear steer) Not sure how much durango will be left when it is completed! I may be transporting it from the home garage to the shop this month.
What year were the u-joint style front steer rockwell axles used? |
04-09-2008, 06:05 PM | #186 |
pimpin' IS easy
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What do ya'lls thing about this limit strap idea. I would attche them to the axle at upper link mounts at the axle, and go over the tubular frame. This would net me double the strength out of one strap, which is good when i'm hanging rocks and 44's from them...
Any pro's or cons i'm not thinking of? Is the side-pull bad? Bad enough to not do it? They won't ride on these straps, or banging down on them alot... anyways, here's some super awesome artistic renderings of my idea... the red is the strap idea of course.
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04-09-2008, 09:52 PM | #187 |
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: New Richmond Ohio
Posts: 266
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Lookin good Mike.
You want to go to the fall crawl again this year? |
04-09-2008, 10:31 PM | #188 |
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Middletown
Posts: 118
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Mike,
On your build-up there are many very neat looking fabrications. "Bling, bling, bling." The fabricated parts that rise from the front axle supporting the forward end of the upper link are great examples. In my humble opinion, I don't think looping the web over the tubing does justice to the rest of your rig. Could you turn the webbing so the flat portion is perpendicular to the direction the tubing runs. Mount two brackets to the tubing behind the tow clevis points and forward of where you show it looped now for the upper mount and have the lower mount almost at the axle itself very near the lower portion of the fabrication points supporting the upperlinks. Make a mount that compliments the other fabrication nearby. The webbing would be almost straight up and down. I am assuming the webbing ends are similar to the flat plates at the mounting ends of seatbelts. This would allow the webbing to swivel a small amount also if needed. (Clear as mud, right.) I don't know if this poses a problem with webbing getting caught in other parts though. Nice looking rig. I have enjoyed watching the progress. John
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1950 CJ3A. Oddfire 225 V6, T-86 transmission, Dana 18 transfer case, 4 wheel disc brakes, locked front and rear. Manual saginaw steering. Warn winch, 9,000#. |
04-10-2008, 02:08 AM | #189 |
pimpin' IS easy
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Well, my drawing is a bit flawed, i should have made both belt tabs go to the inner side of the link mount tower. No need for them to straddle the link. Both on the same side would put them almost directly below where they will loop over the tubing. Looping them over the tube there doubles the strength of the strap as well, and since i will be hanging serious weight from them, i will feel safer.
I thought it was quite trick and clean looking... not booty or ghetto or half-assed. didn't want to weld a tab, wanted something different.
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04-10-2008, 09:07 AM | #190 |
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The only issue I can see right off hand is that the strap would be rubbing on the tube all of the time. I think you would have issues with either always having the paint rubbed off the frame and/or wearing the strap out. Don't think those are necessarily huge issues, but something to consider.
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04-10-2008, 09:39 AM | #191 |
EX-Vice President
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Maybe machine a nylon sleeve with a slit down it so you can snap it around the tubing to help on the strap wearing prematurely?
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04-10-2008, 09:42 AM | #192 |
pimpin' IS easy
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wasnt concerned at all about paint rub, there will be quite a few bare paint spots after the first couple trail runs... ha.
one problem i didnt take into account is when the strap gets dirty, sandy, gritty, full of small rocks, then the rubbing will actually wear on the strap, as well as the tube. So, gonna go ahead and just tab it at the top, and go to the link mount there at the bottom. oh well, wanted to try something new, not worth the possible issues.
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04-10-2008, 08:33 PM | #193 |
Just Empty Every Pocket
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Would definatly protect the tops of the tanks better. I know if mine was set up this way I would probably have damaged the tanks.
Does a propaned engine have a different exhaust sound or is it all the same?
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91 fj 80 on 37 Nitto Muds with a 10k winch. Cage and sliders coming soon. |
04-10-2008, 10:27 PM | #194 |
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04-10-2008, 11:21 PM | #195 |
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: middletown,oh
Posts: 508
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Good,I thought you'd been breathing too much welding smoke! One day you were bashing your battery tray,then you're thinking about doing something like this. There is nothing wrong with that tray,expetially when comparred to that strap idea,lol.
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04-11-2008, 03:23 PM | #196 |
pimpin' IS easy
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ok whatever... i think it would be a great look, simple and clean... and new. not gonna do it due to strap fatigue... go forbid we try something different.
anyways... big bummer, the see-thru propane cylinders are a little larger than the aluminum... not gonna fit in my current configuration, need to figure something out.
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04-11-2008, 06:58 PM | #197 |
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Location: Colerain
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Can't bring the ghey any worse than mid-link bump stops! ;)
Sorry Mike I just had to give you a hard time... ironic it's coming from a guy with a pile of parts and nothing to wheel.. How susceptible are air shocks to over-travel damage? ...I actually don't know what the end of a air shock rod looks like ... piston?...valve cartridge? |
04-11-2008, 08:21 PM | #198 |
pimpin' IS easy
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only thing holding that shaft in is a clip... it won't hold a rockwell and a big ass tire. There is both a negative detent spring and positive one as well, they help, but still won't stop it. Needs to be limited, that's for sure.
The front needs some limiting to avoid driveshaft issues... but that's another ugly situation. and to hell with you and your opinion on mid link bump stops... hahahah. where did you mount yours?
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04-11-2008, 08:34 PM | #199 |
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