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Old 02-27-2013, 07:26 AM   #1
BillysGruff
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BlueOx build

Hopefully the name hasnt been taken already. I've always called my truck that. 2003 Silverado thats been through the wrenches. Its been in two wrecks, neither my fault...so once the trans went, that was the last straw for me. Plans are leaf sprung 52's, 4.88's, 37's/Hummer beadlocks combo from Trailworthfab.com. It will be a dual purpose vehicle. No thrashing till exo, shorten rear, and no bed. On with the pics...

I always liked this pic


NP241C D-drop


Gear pattern for 9.5



BTF diff cover


Closeup


Running stock brakes, poor tape measure


U-bolt flip


Shackle flip


1330-1350 conversion u-joint


9.5 Installed


Press brake that is functional, but still needs some work


Trans parts, piece of .375", 9/16" socket


Locking collar needs some work


Start of winch bumper, .375" base plate, .188" brackets holes matching to frame for bolt on, 14* bends on bottom piece, tube is 1.75" .188" wall CREW


Got this hunk of **** for 1K locally, man it needs work


Any body need an HSA?


'78


Missing a couple lockout pieces on both sides


Rear end pic


And a face to match the name, poser shot, stock truck


Currently I'm waiting on '89 rotors and new 14x1.5 studs. I'm currently searching for hub parts, have some not local friends with parts, but I'm thinking my best bet is a boneyard. Thats its for now. More to come.
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:07 AM   #2
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Looks like a great start. I would love to have a SAS truck like this.
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:28 PM   #3
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histeer arm looks like death trap, **** mud boggers do! id keep bed and dovetail for looks, also it will not stay dual purpose for long so spend wisely so you aint upgrading suspension each year. b a fun trail rig fo sho
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:32 PM   #4
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i would have loved to do this to my 03 instead of selling it.
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:22 AM   #5
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?...why do you have a ford front end for a chevy truck unless you are planning to change a lot of stuff.?
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:00 PM   #6
BillysGruff
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Originally Posted by twiztedzuki View Post
histeer arm looks like death trap, **** mud boggers do! id keep bed and dovetail for looks, also it will not stay dual purpose for long so spend wisely so you aint upgrading suspension each year. b a fun trail rig fo sho
I want to shorten wheelbase at that time. Probably wouldnt be street legal then. Plan is to upgrade when it breaks, unfortunately not if, but when.
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:06 PM   #7
BillysGruff
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?...why do you have a ford front end for a chevy truck unless you are planning to change a lot of stuff.?
Same reason you have a linked HPD60 front.;)
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Old 02-28-2013, 05:28 PM   #8
BillysGruff
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Looks like a great start. I would love to have a SAS truck like this.
Thanks bud.
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:25 PM   #9
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?...why do you have a ford front end for a chevy truck unless you are planning to change a lot of stuff.?
have to change more stuff to use a chevy front end. IFS GM trucks are drivers drop from the factory, where as GM SFA trucks were all passenger drop. Ford axles are drivers drop, so easier to swap to match the stock front output side.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:27 PM   #10
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have to change more stuff to use a chevy front end. IFS GM trucks are drivers drop from the factory, where as GM SFA trucks were all passenger drop. Ford axles are drivers drop, so easier to swap to match the stock front output side.
I figured I'd see you on here sooner than later. I also swapped in the NP241 and floor shifter, which is pretty much the same as any Heep NP231. I'm looking for a 205/208 flange so I can run a 1350CV d-shaft. Bessler had a Red 73-87K10 that I was going to steal the flange and rear springs from. I couldnt get the flange off without battery powered impact, so I had to come back. When I did, it was gone. I just remembered Jacks, which is about 5 min from my house, they have all kinds of fun stuff!
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:06 AM   #11
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Exo it quick!! Yota drivers depend on us full-size rigs to widen the trails,,
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:55 AM   #12
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Exo it quick!! Yota drivers depend on us full-size rigs to widen the trails,,
Ha! Just checked out some pics of your rig. Looks like it does great! That's good to know there are other FS rigs for the squirrely 'Yotas. It'll all come soon enough.
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:53 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by BillysGruff View Post
I'm looking for a 205/208 flange so I can run a 1350CV d-shaft.
When I first did my SAS, I had a cv shaft made to fit the stock 241 flange. I killed the cv first trip to Harlan, so I improvised. I bought a 1350 205 u-bolt style yoke, took the stock 241 flange and cut the end off so the 241 and 205 were the same length as the stock 241 yoke. After some grinding, it got better angles than the original CV did. I also had to notch the cross member so the shaft didn't hit it as the front end drops out. I'm sure I could have had a high dollar cv shaft made, but this way cheaper. The joints do wear more than usual because of the steeper angle, so I use the Moog 231 super joint that has a lifetime warranty from most parts stores. Advance seems to have the most stores, so I use them. Good luck with your build.
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Old 03-01-2013, 10:06 AM   #14
BillysGruff
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When I first did my SAS, I had a cv shaft made to fit the stock 241 flange. I killed the cv first trip to Harlan, so I improvised. I bought a 1350 205 u-bolt style yoke, took the stock 241 flange and cut the end off so the 241 and 205 were the same length as the stock 241 yoke. After some grinding, it got better angles than the original CV did. I also had to notch the cross member so the shaft didn't hit it as the front end drops out. I'm sure I could have had a high dollar cv shaft made, but this way cheaper. The joints do wear more than usual because of the steeper angle, so I use the Moog 231 super joint that has a lifetime warranty from most parts stores. Advance seems to have the most stores, so I use them. Good luck with your build.
Some good tech right there. :shake: I've been clued in from some other friends that a newer 2500/3500 Dodge front d-shaft is 1350 from the factory, so if I can source one of those and the 205/208 flange, and grind for some more clearance, I'll be GTG.
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:09 AM   #15
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When I first did my SAS
Do you have a link for a build thread? Or an image placeholder? I'm currently working on the brackets. I'll be buying more tube and springs next month.

http://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/22-553.htm
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:52 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by BillysGruff View Post
Do you have a link for a build thread? Or an image placeholder? I'm currently working on the brackets. I'll be buying more tube and springs next month.

http://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/22-553.htm
I have a lot of pics, but no build thread. I wasn't a member of the forum when I did it. I'll post some up. I built 2 different styles of shackle for the front. Steering was the biggest issue I had. When you get in to it you'll see the draglink angle is bad, so it won't steer good at all. I even tapped my box for hydraulic assist, but it still didn't want to turn the 39.5's very good. I had to go full hydro.

I used a 4" lift 52" rear spring in the front, and the stock 63" with a 2" add a leaf, 4" blocks, shackle flip, and a 6" shackle. The allowed me to barely clear 39.5" tires in the front. Even after trimming/pounding the fender/firewall, they still rubbed the outer lugs on the tires at full stuff. Only after I tubed the front and aced the fenders did it stop rubbing. I kept the 117" wheelbase, but had I moved the axle up an inch, that should have fixed the rubbing.
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:49 PM   #17
BillysGruff
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A couple questions:

1. Does anybody have any Spicer D60 parts laying around that they dont need? As you can see I'm missing some. I tried Bessler and Jacks, but without luck.

2. Does anyone work for a machine shop or know someone who could bore out the opening on my D44 caliper brackets to fit the D60? Everything but the center bore on the brackets is the same. I've tried calling around with 0 luck.

And some fun...
The base idea


Coming along, I've since rounded those sharp corners on the ears and drilled holes for rosette welding, I'll also do two horizontal gussets between the ears and vertical gussets.


Shackle
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:33 PM   #18
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94dodgetruggy may be able to assist you with the machine work. I have heard that he does this type stuff...???
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:49 PM   #19
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This was the first design, but it allowed the body to move when I tried to steer. So I had to do it a little different and go hydro.

Click image for larger version

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And the second design, which is on it now.

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Old 03-11-2013, 09:59 PM   #20
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Few more pics of the front.
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Then I got tired of the front and started cutting.
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:49 AM   #21
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WOW, what happened? Looks awesome!
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:32 AM   #22
BillysGruff
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94dodgetruggy may be able to assist you with the machine work. I have heard that he does this type stuff...???
I'm confused, are you sayin JohnnyDodgeTruggy is Gram or somebody else? I searched for the username you provided, but didnt exist.

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Originally Posted by 93 Krawler View Post
This was the first design, but it allowed the body to move when I tried to steer. So I had to do it a little different and go hydro.

Attachment 6528
Its amazing how 3" difference b/t GMT800/900 on the inside of the frame rails makes for mounting the shackle location.

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Holy sexy flexy, Batman! Except, where's night vision?

Last edited by BillysGruff; 03-18-2013 at 09:09 AM.
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:24 AM   #23
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94Dodge Truggy
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:40 PM   #24
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I'm confused, are you sayin JohnnyDodgeTruggy is Gram or somebody else? I searched for the username you provided, but didnt exist.

Holy sexy flexy, Batman! Except, where's night vision?
His profile link. http://www.cincyoffroad.com/forum/member.php?u=26

It has 4 - 27 watt LED lights on it now.
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Old 03-25-2013, 03:44 PM   #25
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Exhibit A contains a 2 x 3 x 1/4" wall soon to be x-member, two (2) 1.75 x 3/16" upper bumper pieces for under the headlights and front part of fender w/50* bends @14.5". I need to cut off 18" from the ends. I have a fourth piece that I'll sleeve on both ends.


It just so happends that a d-side D44 axle shaft is ~1.375" and fits very well inside 1.75" tube to be used as sleeves.


An example of using part of the axle shaft as a sleeve. I'll drill and plug weld later. I should have done this from the get go, ah well.


Got one at a time cause it saved me 20 bucks. *Important question* Do I need to have two locking sleeves for springs? I wonder why they would only include one? There isnt a hole on the backside for a rivet either.




1/2" spring plate I made....jk Barnes deserves all the credit on their fantastic products


Bought new shackles instead of using the ones I made, 9/16" bolts/nuts/washers acquired


All cleaned up, need prime and paint


Ebay 99.99 special. I dont need any o-ring seals with these, do I?




39/64" drilled, all cleaned up and ready for pressing. I'd have these finished but I didnt get the right seals from Rockauto.


Improved the locking collar, those two pieces are welded togther.


Gettin there. Going to gusset the ears and vertical gusset for added strength. The drill bit dulled as I was drilling these out.
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