What is this worth?

[mckeddie]

i'd want a zuk to be around 96-99'' for crawling, and closer to 103'' if you plan on doing some hillclimbs too. that is going to depend on your tire sizes too. 103'' is what my plan for the zuk im' hopefully picking up this weekend will end up on 40'' red labels.

greg

[biggin69]

100'' is good for alot of different terrain and a light drivetrain. Axles, motor, steering, gearing etc...? :confused:

Axles = Dana 44's, Motor = 1.6 8v, Gearing = 5.13 diffs & 4.5:1 T-Case...

i'd want a zuk to be around 96-99'' for crawling, and closer to 103'' if you plan on doing some hillclimbs too. that is going to depend on your tire sizes too. 103'' is what my plan for the zuk im' hopefully picking up this weekend will end up on 40'' red labels.

greg

I plan on doing a little of everything. Mostly trails like Haspin and The Badlands. I may shoot for 105"? This is all new to me.

now u need 2 decide what type of link set up u want.....i would suggest a 3-link for the front or double tri-angulated 4-link

As I stated above, this is all new to me. Why would you recommend a three link? Is it all worth it? It already has YJ springs up front?

[RuffedUpXJ]

A three link is easier to design for the front because it takes up less space and the driveshaft can be hard to get a link in around. Also it will bind up less with there being less links.

[mckeddie]

i like the idea of a 3 link for 2 reasons. 1) packaging is easier as mentioned above, it was a nightmare getting a dual triangulated 4 link to work on my jeep, the driveshaft was hard to miss with the upper link (resolved with a 2'' taller than wanted rideheight, and a bent upper link to clear). 2) you can still run mechanical steering with hydro assist, as the track bar keeps the axle located in line with the drag link through the axles arc, going 4 link will require full hydro. the main problems i have with the 3 link is the side to side swing of hte axle through the range of motion (again, from the trac bar), and the fact that if you break an upper, and you are running airshocks or coilovers, you just broke alot more than a heim or bushing, you also probably ripped the end off of your $hock.

you're going to need ot take tire size seriously into to consideration with your wheelbase too, you don't want ot be hung up on your belly everytime you come over somethinng.

[biggin69]

I currently am running 36" tires and do not want to go any bigger. I also already have full hydro steering.

[TheJeepGuy]

I beleive this cage has a alot of potential,but inorder to be safe and strong,I would move and add some tubes that are more functional.REMEMBER,SAFETY FIRST.Good luck and have fun with your build.Also,sounds like the guys over on PIRATE4X4 are giving you some good advise also.

[biggin69]

I beleive this cage has a alot of potential,but inorder to be safe and strong,I would move and add some tubes that are more functional.REMEMBER,SAFETY FIRST.Good luck and have fun with your build.Also,sounds like the guys over on PIRATE4X4 are giving you some good advise also.

Where would you recommend placing the tubes? Modify the pics in Paint please?

There are some great people on Pirate and there are as many, if not more douche bags that think just because you are new, you are garbage.

[TheJeepGuy]

[QUOTE=biggin69;30674]Where would you recommend placing the tubes? Modify the pics in Paint please?


Sorry, don't do paint,but the tubes I was refering to is the main hoop which is directly behind your seats should have a X design for strength in the event of a rollover.Sometimes flops are very violent,also the long tubes running from the main hoop down to your rear shock mounting area could be moved out to the 90 degree bend of the main hoop for additional strength.No one likes to rollover,but if you do,you need all the protection you can get.

[biggin69]

[QUOTE=TheJeepGuy;30681]

Where would you recommend placing the tubes? Modify the pics in Paint please?


Sorry, don't do paint,but the tubes I was refering to is the main hoop which is directly behind your seats should have a X design for strength in the event of a rollover.Sometimes flops are very violent,also the long tubes running from the main hoop down to your rear shock mounting area could be moved out to the 90 degree bend of the main hoop for additional strength.No one likes to rollover,but if you do,you need all the protection you can get.

[humpy]

[QUOTE=TheJeepGuy;30681][QUOTE=biggin69;30674}
No one likes to rollover[/QUOTE]

SAYS WHO???? lol

[TheJeepGuy]

rollover

Humpy....You are THE MAN when it comes to doing the FLOP.We need to fab up some outriggers,or maybe some training wheels..OR....weld some coil springs to the side of your cage so it springs back up by itself...lol

[humpy]

somebody has to provide entertainment!!!

[OH-cj5]

Looks like from a side shot that it was built to hold early bronco body work from the shape of thing.