Finally brought the rig back in the garage after evicting it last month for being a pain. Put on another pump, no mods at all, 100% factory, and it works killer. Better steering than I ever had before. It's about frigging time...
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Before & After - My 1993 K1500
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Originally posted by 93 Krawler View PostFinally brought the rig back in the garage after evicting it last month for being a pain. Put on another pump, no mods at all, 100% factory, and it works killer. Better steering than I ever had before. It's about frigging time...Ian
06 Toyota 4Runner
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Originally posted by tbshakie View Postso what did you do to fix it?
Removed all the mods and made it stock. I think the orbital I got from waffle made it steer easier, but it seems like it will take more turns to get lock to lock. I recall him saying that when it was on his. I do like the finger steer though.
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Originally posted by WaffleI think this is correct: If your at more turns lock to lock now but it turns with less effort, then that orbital you have now is requiring less gpm from your pump and puts you under the gpm max that the pump will supply. Changing to a faster lock to lock valve can be too much for the pump and you'll begin to feel resistance in the steering. This is what happened to me. My old orbital (on your rig) steered with one finger, but it was 4 turns lock to lock. My new orbital is under 3 turns LTL but it's no longer 1 finger friendly. This is why I plan on going to a higher gpm and pressure CBR pump.
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Originally posted by WaffleWhoa! 1.5? Each way? No wonder you had issues. My current setup is 2.5 one way and just under 3 the other. With my old valve is was closer to 3.5 left and just over 4 right.
I have the 125 (7.6) valve.
orbital Rating
in ml/rev
(c.i./rev.) 6-Inch Ram 8-Inch Ram 10-Inch Ram
100 (6.1) 2.7 3.6 4.5
125 (7.6) 2.2 2.9 3.6
160 (9.8) 1.7 2.3 2.8
https://www.trail-gear.com/TG/Orbita...043-1-KIT.aspxLast edited by 93 Krawler; 12-29-2015, 10:29 AM.
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Originally posted by WaffleTurns lock to lock in an unbalanced system (SE cylinder) is measured from left steering stop over to right steering stop and then back again, right steering stop to left steering stop. You'll have two different numbers. Sounds like your measuring from the wheel being centered over to either stop.
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That trail-gear info is regarding one particular diameter cylinder though. My 8" cylinder is small at 2-1/4". Yours is 8 x 2-1/2" and will have diff results just like a 8 x 3" will differ as well.
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Originally posted by WaffleTurns lock to lock in an unbalanced system (SE cylinder) is measured from left steering stop over to right steering stop and then back again, right steering stop to left steering stop. You'll have two different numbers...
That would put the steering wheel in a different position after every turn.
DIRTY DEEDS, DONE DIRT CHEAP
Whatever doesn't kill you makes you stranger
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Originally posted by WrenchMonkey View PostThat would drive me NUTS.
I'll shut the hell up now and let the grownups talk.
mine should be about 3 LTL when done. My brothers truck is way to slow at like 4 one way and almost 5 and a half the other. scary at any sort of speed over a crawl when trying to make a quick turn.beat up rusted out k5
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I have decided to lose some weight on my rig, like everything but my drive train. I just want something lighter and slimmer. So I'm going to start collecting parts for an S10 build. I plan on a 4 link front and rear, and a tube chassis. I want to do an extended cab, but not if my wheelbase will be more than 117". I need to get dog house measurements on standard and extended cabs. Anyone on here have one they can measure?
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Originally posted by WrenchMonkey View PostI like this plan.
There's a guy on dayshift that dailys an extended cab. I could grab some quick numbers to get you started.
That would be great. Thx. The most important measurement is from the cab rear to the cab front. I can measure out the wheelbase from that.
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Last edited by WrenchMonkey; 02-08-2016, 07:45 PM.DIRTY DEEDS, DONE DIRT CHEAP
Whatever doesn't kill you makes you stranger
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