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Lug Nut seized!!

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  • #16
    weld a much larger, cleaner, newer nut to the end of it.

    go buy a bigger breaker buy, or a better one for that matter.

    slide a 3-4 foot piece of tube over the breaker bar and remove them.

    if they don't come, heat them till they are close to glowing, then they will come off, or twist off all together.

    good luck.


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    • #17
      point taken about posters not reading through the whole thing...
      Last edited by KargoMaster; 04-28-2009, 08:59 AM.
      brad

      5.0L | 435 | 203 | 300 | 4.10 | 39.5
      Buildup BACK underway...


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      • #18
        I have always seen the axle's come out by bumping over a log
        similar to the size of a speedbump
        you'll hear a snap and the whole axle comes right out
        well.....most of it.
        it's like magic.
        For you guys who can't drive, I have owned a frame rack for several years. Prices are based on your skill and ability to wreck it....

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        • #19
          Originally posted by fabricator View Post
          I have always seen the axle's come out by bumping over a log
          similar to the size of a speedbump
          you'll hear a snap and the whole axle comes right out
          well.....most of it.
          it's like magic.
          now thats funny right there
          S10 with a few air shocks..

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          • #20
            i would agree that putting any effort into a d35 seems pointless but you could have the axle out in like 15 mins with hand tools and that would also give you a chance to change the gear oil and inspect the diff to see if you will be expecting any implossion in the near future. that way you can get to the studs on the axle and will not harm your wheels at all. i know it sounds like alot of work but it is really a quit simple solution.
            One of these days Zuk 2.0

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            • #21
              Ok I think I'll give it a try then. I just didn't want it to be this big of a deal ya know!? But right now I just want it done.

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              • #22
                I started on it and realized it was not a d35 it is a C8.25! I'm stupid but at least that is a little good news for once! But they use the same c-clip crap as well, right?

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                • #23
                  Used a BIG drill and got the one on the pass. side off But all five on the driver side or still ****ed! Here is a pic If any one wants to see.
                  driver side


                  Pass. side before drill two nights ago!


                  And one of the rear axle

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                  • #24
                    are those drum brakes? if so don't you have to pull the axle to replace the old studs or is there enough room behind the axle flange to get a new stud put in?

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                    • #25
                      Wondering if a 1/4 stick of TNT would loosen up the nuts?
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                      • #26
                        I would just weld a good nut to the end of each one of those lug nuts and prepare myself to spend money on new ones. (they do get pricey when you add them up) If you can't do that is the vehicle mobile? I'm sure a goodyear, tire discounter, or even walmart would be happy to exchange some dollars for some labor.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Bear Chow View Post
                          I would just weld a good nut to the end of each one of those lug nuts and prepare myself to spend money on new ones. (they do get pricey when you add them up) If you can't do that is the vehicle mobile? I'm sure a goodyear, tire discounter, or even walmart would be happy to exchange some dollars for some labor.
                          I may just do that! take it and say I can't get them off and not tell them that they are stripped, seized, and completely ****afied!

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                          • #28
                            No matter what you bring them, they have seen worst.

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                            • #29
                              Drill it out ... carbide faced masonry bit if a regular cobalt/HSS twist drill has problems dealing with the stud material.

                              Step drill up to something close to the dia. of the stud ....then drive a hex bodied chisel into the hole ... put adjustable wrench on the hex body and work whats left of the nut/stud in various directions until metal fatigue becomes your friend...enjoy

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                              • #30
                                Thanks for all the help guys and I'll let you know when and how I get them off!

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