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  • A question for you carpenters..

    Im not a framer/builder, but I know there are some here...

    My shop was a pole barn that we poured concrete floor in after it was up, using bottom bandboard as a form. Now that my shop is gone, including the poles, all that is left is the concrete slab.

    Looking down the road when I rebuild, since I have no actual footers, can I stickbuild and put walls right on edge of slab? Or is slab going to move, sink, settle, ect.....

    I dont see any good way to pull broken posts out, to put new ones in and rebuild as a pole barn...origional posts were concreted in..

    Am I over thinking this? I know u would never build a house on top of a slab without footers...would u?

    Thanx in advance:)

    Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by yellowjacket; 05-03-2012, 03:58 PM.
    my next rig will be on the trail before zuk 2.0 will

  • #2
    How thick is the slab at the edges ? If it is only 4"s or so i don't know how well that would hold the walls in place if you just got some strong winds...

    My idea would be to put new post in on the outside of the slab and repeat the band board as a form and just fill the void that is left between the old floor and the new band board...

    Or put new post in outside the slab... build your walls on what would be the inside of the post and then when you finish the outside of the building you could trim out the post to make them look like columns on the outside of the building... giving the outside a little character and not looking like just a pole barn...

    probably more work than you are looking for, but you could just dig a footer around the outside of your slab, given your slab has enough rebar and the edges will support itself until the footer is finished...

    the more i think about it the more ideas i come up with...

    my .02....

    Last edited by gothodgie; 05-03-2012, 04:32 PM.
    sigpic
    chris hodges
    96 fzj80 3x locked, 4"lift, 37s, homebrew sliders and bumpers,a work in progress
    71 fj55, SOA, locked...The jungle bus... retired

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    • #3
      Well I like your ideas...gives me stuff to think about...slab is 8"thick, built it like I intended on stayin here fer a while.... But if concrete inside a pole barn moves, its just a bummer. But if a slab thats holdin up the garage moves, its bad doo doo:( cause the whole shop moves too!

      Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk
      my next rig will be on the trail before zuk 2.0 will

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      • #4
        So far I like ur idea of havin another pole barn put up, but with posts outside slab then fillin the voids with concrete. I would eventually frame it in for interior walls and insulation, and it does seem redundant to have a pole barn with just as much wall lumber as a stick built shop....i dunno...? Having footers dug in underneath sounds $$$ though

        Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk
        my next rig will be on the trail before zuk 2.0 will

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        • #5
          id use hilti gun and anchor boards straight to slab with it that thick
          SMITH BUILT PERIOD

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          • #6
            Originally posted by twiztedzuki View Post
            id use hilti gun and anchor boards straight to slab with it that thick
            and some good epoxy...

            I agree... With 8"s thick it will hold pretty well... What condition was the ground in when you poured the slab ? Did you pour over solid ground that had never really been disturbed ? Was the top soil skimmed off and gravel put down, if so was it compacted really well ? I would want the ground to be good and solid under the slab if i was going to attach the walls to the slab... How long has the slab been there ? A good way to get an idea of how good the ground is under the slab is looking at how many cracks you have ib your floor... The less cracks the better... Also i would brace the heck out of the walls and corners like you were building in a Huricane area...

            Yea digging footers and putting in a foundation wall would be pricey, mainly because concrete is so dam expensive these days...
            sigpic
            chris hodges
            96 fzj80 3x locked, 4"lift, 37s, homebrew sliders and bumpers,a work in progress
            71 fj55, SOA, locked...The jungle bus... retired

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            • #7
              I had to help a buddy dig a french drain system around his house. The little ranch was built on a 6" slab with the walls anchored directly into the concrete. Of course I have no idea how much rebar was in there supporting it. I would think if the floor has been there for a while then it should have sellted pretty good.

              Ever thought about making it say 2 feet wider and just putting new post outside the slab concreted in, and then backfilling the concrete on the inside?

              Hope all is going well!

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              • #8
                Yup thats what hodgie said to do tooo...sounds like my best bet I think so far

                All is well, thank u:) be a while on my phase inverter, but ill be pickin ur brain then!

                Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk
                my next rig will be on the trail before zuk 2.0 will

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                • #9
                  On the concrete it is a common misconception that thicker is better the density and cure rate that determines strength.. I would have no fear building a wall on the pad you have... It's not like you are building a 2 storie house or a 500000$ home who cares if it shifts a little etc.. it doesn't have to be perfectly square.. just my .02.... Roll on with it just over anchor and over build. That's my rule of thumb. Just as long as it is safe and meets building code
                  Dont look @ me in that tone of voice or I WILL PUNCH YOU IN THE SHIRT! :mad:

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                  • #10
                    Maybe consider using drilled and epoxied anchors for your sole plate
                    1988 Suzuki Samurai on propane
                    FJ 40 axles (4.10)
                    5.14 tcase
                    36" TSL SX

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                    • #11
                      Thanks jason. I know u are a builder and I value your expertise:beer:.... I did spec the higher psi grade, icr what it was exactly.

                      Id feel reall dumb if the last six inches of pad cracked off if it supported half the shop

                      Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk
                      my next rig will be on the trail before zuk 2.0 will

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                      • #12
                        Your best bet is coma be get someone to assess the situation that has A LOT of experience.. I have a guy if you want his info.. he is the man when it comes to concrete and structure
                        Dont look @ me in that tone of voice or I WILL PUNCH YOU IN THE SHIRT! :mad:

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by jwend View Post
                          Your best bet is coma be get someone to assess the situation that has A LOT of experience.. I have a guy if you want his info.. he is the man when it comes to concrete and structure
                          that will answer all your questions... and yes jason i know it's not how thick it is but what the recipe is...

                          sigpic
                          chris hodges
                          96 fzj80 3x locked, 4"lift, 37s, homebrew sliders and bumpers,a work in progress
                          71 fj55, SOA, locked...The jungle bus... retired

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Hope Springs Hauler View Post
                            Maybe consider using drilled and epoxied anchors for your sole plate
                            Not familiar w epoxied anchors...

                            Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk
                            my next rig will be on the trail before zuk 2.0 will

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                            • #15
                              If you wanted to keep the same foot print, couldn't you cut out around where the pos pouts were then just pour concrete into the open hole and tie everything together?

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