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chevy motor/axle swap into a yj

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  • #16
    Originally posted by 94Dodge Truggy View Post
    Appears to be light duty axles. What size and brand tire do you plan on running?
    Not sure but I would guess 33s or 35s. Probably whatever we find for him cheap. I am going to suggest to him that we look for some different axles, especially running them behind a mild built 350.
    1994 YJ, 4.0, 5 speed.

    *2006 Dodge 2500 Cummins, 4x4 Auto,Quad cab, LongBed, Tekonsha Prodigy(Tow Rig)

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    • #17
      Axles are 10 bolts the front will take 35's I would not go larger then 33's though casue the rear is a c-clip axle.


      if i am not currently offending you, i will be shortly.

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      • #18
        Buy my 60/70 combo and be done! I also have a 30 front and 35 rear with 4.10 ratio from a 94 wrangler. Make me an offer!
        sigpic

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        • #19
          truggy is having one hell of an axle sale right now, that's for sure.


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          • #20
            Looks like a 10-bolt front axle to me. But whether it's a D44 or 10-bolt shouldn't make any difference because they are basically identical in strength.

            In my opinion that fact that the rear axle is a c-clip design is a moot point in regards to strength. The c-clip in no way makes the axle any weaker than if everything else was identical with the exception of the c-clips. Sure, if you break a shaft it can spit off the tire end, but so can a flanged (non c-clip) axle (I've seen two flanged D44 rear axles do this).

            But in any case they aren't exactly the epitome of beef in regards to axles, and the gearing sucks, but should hold up reasonably well under a light vehicle only running 33-35" tires. This also assuming they are in good condition, if the shafts and such have already been beat on hard for 20+ years then they would have a lot of fatigue life.

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            • #21
              my old rig ( now Hybrids ) was on 10 bolts and I beat the crap out of it , never had a problem with the rear and it was welded. Started breaking fronts only after welding it up , I was running 35" boggers and a mild 350.
              Biggest mistake I made was going to a 14 bolt in the rear and still running 35's , it was worse then running 31's with the 10 bolts . " no clearance!!"
              I would run the 10 bolts and up to 35's for now. Get a couple trail spares and have fun. The 10 bolts are dirt cheap and easy to work on and easy to find in the scrap yards.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by sarge View Post
                my old rig ( now Hybrids ) was on 10 bolts and I beat the crap out of it , never had a problem with the rear and it was welded. Started breaking fronts only after welding it up , I was running 35" boggers and a mild 350.
                Biggest mistake I made was going to a 14 bolt in the rear and still running 35's , it was worse then running 31's with the 10 bolts . " no clearance!!"
                I would run the 10 bolts and up to 35's for now. Get a couple trail spares and have fun. The 10 bolts are dirt cheap and easy to work on and easy to find in the scrap yards.
                Great thanks. I'll suggest he stick with the 10bolts for now then. I know they worked on it last night, but I was miserable with a cold so I didn't make it.
                1994 YJ, 4.0, 5 speed.

                *2006 Dodge 2500 Cummins, 4x4 Auto,Quad cab, LongBed, Tekonsha Prodigy(Tow Rig)

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