Dana 60 strength

[yellowjacket]

back in the 1990's guys were slipping d44's in there rigs as upgrades.....everyone skips that step now it seems and go straight to the d60

looking for your opinions on front dana 60 strength vs tire size and weight of vehicle. combined with moderate wheeling ( think railbed/damnation...not rock bouncing)


max tire size on front 60 in stock form
max tire size on front 60 moderately built(4340/ctms)
max tire size on front 60 high end build( rcv/ 40 spline/upgraded knuckles)

max tire size front 60 high end build but no weight of motor (rear engine)

[yellowjacket]

other variables would include a moderate 400 hp v8, auto tranny, lighter weight vehical such as a wrangler on a diet or a buggy


just so we are all on the same page..

[T-bird]

I was looking at the something similar. I wanted to save weight because I run stock 4.0 and trying to tow with my Tacoma rated to tow 6500lbs. I was going to use a 79 HP Dana 44 with 1/2" thick tubes and running Dana 60 outers. Then looked into the Jana 54 kit. Debated on Stock 60 shafts or chromos, then thought Dana 44 RCV's were as strong as stock 60 shafts why go through so much trouble changing out the outers.

I came up with these simple ratings based simple off web wheeling and others experiences while running a Jeep 4.0 on a ~4,000 rig.

Stock 44 - beating on it = 35" tires, babying it = 37"
Built 44 - beating it = 37", babying it = ~38ish
Built 44 with 60 outers - beating it = 39", babying it 39" reds
Stock 60 - beating it = 37", babying it = 40"
Dana 60 built - beating it = 40", babying it = 44"
Dana 60 40 spline shafts ??

Everyone will have their own opinion but thats a start.

[itbrokeagain]

My 44 with chromoly axles survived. I was not easy on it with my 37 boggers

[underpowered]

IMO where you wheel, and competency of the play a HUGE role. I have seen lighter rigs with smaller tires break where a heavier rig with bigger tires did not, simple because the driver of the larger rig knew when to let off the skinny pedal.


i feel confident beating on my bone stock d60 with my 38.5's around here. I honestly don't even think about an axle breaking. However, in a high traction place like rock crawling, i would be a bit more leery of broke parts on a stock 60.

under my 6000lb blazer, my current 38.5's are about as big as i feel confident with. get some chromo's and full 35 splines in there and i would have no issue wheeling 42's with it and my moderate 200HP stock 350.

[93 Krawler]

I'm running stock inners and 35 spline moly outers with 39.5 TSL's on my heavy chevy, and have only cracked the steering knuckle so far. I wouldn't say I'm easy on it at all. I do know when to quit before I kill something. I would run 42's if I had moly inners.

[blazerbrad]

I think the general perspective on axle strength has changed over the years. Everybody thinks they need a D60 because all of the cool kids have them. With that saying I do have a D60 but can justify it. Heavy vehicle, 39.5" tires, locker, hard trails....and broke the stock 10-bolt front a couple of times with only 35" radials and a limited slip, so no way it would last with bigger tires and a locker. I also know guys that have upgraded from a D30, to D44, up to a D60 with chromo shafts but have never broken anything and really don't wheel that often or that hard.

My experience on strength.
6,000 lb. K5 Blazer with low horsepower, auto trans, and locker. 13/38-16 Swampers (really small for a "38"). Broke a stock necked down inner, broke two stock outers, and found a 3rd outer twisted. Axle was from a '77 farm truck so a lot of wear and tear over the years. Replaced inners with non-necked Spicers with no issues since. Finally replaced the outers with Yukon 35 splines with no issues since, and have ran non-greasable Spicer u-joints since the beginning with no issues. Like to think I know when to get off the gas but it does get used hard and has ran trails like Widowmaker in Slade many times.

78Buford runs a Ford D60 under his F-250. That thing weighed 7,000 lbs. for years before going on a diet and has ran 13/38 and now 42x15 Swampers for many years. Current engine is a built 460 with an estimated 550 ft-lbs. of torque with an auto and no crazy low gearing. This thing has gotten beat on hard for years. He ran Spicer inners and 35-spline outers with Spicer joints for years. Finally broke a stub but the spindle bearing was shot and making a groove in the stub where it broke. The u-joint holes were starting to egg out a little also. They were replaced with Yukon inners and outers with some sort of high strength joints. These have survived for years with no issue.

[kenjeep1835]

dana 44 strength

my wife is running stock dana 44 scout axles under her yj 4.88 gears spooled front and rear with mild 258, auto trans, dana 300 t/case, running 38/12/15 tsl.. weither she or myself are driving, never had an issue out of them... REALLY DEPENDS ON DRIVER. just knowing what your rig can handle.. yes with dana 60s you gain strength.. but alot of weight too.. pick your poision...

[67fastback]

built it to last so you dont have to worry but it is only money...
I have can say throught the years i have replace part as things broke on my sami with the stock axle and i upgraded each time it broke..After fixing it time and time again it got to the point where the axles were maxed out and it still broke.. So i upgrade to stronger axles (Yota's) and decided that i was tired of replacing things so I max out the yota's now before putting it under the sami.
I have not broke since..
I am surely not one to be easy on my stuff. i built it for my driving style..Beat it hard till i make it.. i want it not to brake so i have make it stronger than the skinny pedal..

i mean if i was braking with 60 all the time and kept upgrading and still braking then rockwell it would be.. yes there is a line as stated about where you have to be easy on it with motor,weight, tire and axle setup.
When you find it keep it and wheel it...
and may till it brakes...