ford 44s

[tjrider]

Originally Posted by frankensteinxj

I would say that a hp44 is your best bet just not the one with cast wedges.
I know you have a tj but read around on naxja.org a little. search and read and search and read.
Pirate4x4 is also full of helpful info for what you are looking to do just lurk and search search search.
If you end up having to run something wider in the front you may just need to throw some wheel spacers on the 8.8.

Or you could swap im some tons

If I has the money I would put tons and 38s on it

[kentuckytwostep]

Originally Posted by frankensteinxj

once you lock it and put 35s on it those shafts are gonna hate life and you can expect to change at least one a trip.

it all depends on the wheeling... I was changing axle joints (and sometimes factory shafts) on my 44 everytime I wheeled... which is why I'm running a 60 now

Originally Posted by tjrider

Is there an axle I can mate with the 8.8 @ the same width?

not domestic (not sure about yota stuff)... and that includes a ford 44... they are WIDE compared to that 8.8.

Originally Posted by frankensteinxj

Or you could swap im some tons

[tjrider]

That's why I'm thinking just go with a HP 30 for now. Its a little stronger than my LP 30. At least till I get the money for tons front and rear

[Incommando]

An often overlooked D60 front that can usually be bought cheaper is the kingpin Dodge from the mid 70's to the early 90's. Got mine from an '87 W250 for $300. Added a $125 FF C&C 14b. Swapping to a stronger pass drop t-case makes the axle work and also strenghtens the aluminum case/chain drive weakness of a 231. I don't blame sellers for getting say $2K for a CUCV axle set because people will pay it. But why are they paying that for a used axle set? Even adding Grizzly lockers I have $1300 in my 1tons with new lockers front and rear. Running the factory LSD'S or welding one or both diffes would have made this axle set down right cheap.

If you are going to have that HP D30 apart these inner axle tube sleeves are supposed to really be a great upgrade especially if you weld on some C-gussets: http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...tegory_Code=UP

[frankensteinxj]

If you go with the dana 30 I have one that has chromoly shafts and superjoints with a spartan locker I will sell for 600$
3:55 gears though, your 8.8 prolly has 4:11.

The shafts and joints alone are over 1000 new.

[kentuckytwostep]

Originally Posted by Incommando

...the kingpin Dodge from the mid 70's to the early 90's. Got mine from an '87 W250 for $300...

I'll buy a truck load of them for that price... no kingpin 60's go for less than twice that around these parts.

[KennyTJ]

Originally Posted by tjrider

after talking with you and two step. i think the HP 30 is my best choice right now.... I'm only looking to run 35's anyways. i don't want huge tires, it takes the challenge out of wheeling. Maybe sleeve it and some good shafts, I should be good

I run the HP30 and 8.8 combo on the '06 TJ with 4.10s, LS rear and "NO" front locker. I run 35" BFG AT on the raod and 36" Super Swamper SX on steal beadlocks offroad.

I will never, rear carful "NEVER" put a front locker in with this setup cause shafts will pop like toothpicks. Here are the issues you'll have (even with the 35's)

1) 4.10 gears keep you in 4LO 1st gear all the time AND it still needs to be lower geared in some cases (I have the 6spd with a lower 1st gear also!) really needs 4.88 gearing.
2) brakes are woefully too small for the beadlocked offroad tires!
3) unit bearings and ujoint-s will need replaced every year, they will wear out and be sloppy!
4) not happy with the angle on the inverted Y steering, even with heavy duty drag link and tie rod, it always is in need of alighnment, every couple of trips it gets whacked.

here's the good.

1) the driveshat is 4" higher than with the stock D30!!!! I trashed a driveshaft on the stock D30, have never had it hit now, it's up higher than my tranny skid.
2) I like that the reverse cut gears are 30% stronger by running on the "correct" side of the ring gear.
3) swap is a bolt on affair.

I did weld a full length truss on the HP30 as well as full skid plates for the lower control arm mounts. I also replaced the upper CA bushings and installed Moog Ball Joints, have had no isuues so far, so seems they are worth the $,
overall it was good for a while, just DO NOT LOCK this axle with 35's it won't last.

I am currently building the F250 HP44 and D60 to replace the HP30 / 8.8 combo i've run the last 3 years. I am going 3/4 ton because I'll never go bigger than 37's on this TJ, will still drive on the street, and am not willing to cut up the fenders.... However I am building a 1ton 14b front and rear CJ5 as a trailer queen for Haqrdcore use!!!

8.8 build...


HP30 build... (sorry no pretty finished pics)

[tjrider]

I'm with kennytj and trigger on this. I don't know if ill ever go bigger than 33s. I don't want to drive forever for hardcore trails. I think a HP 30 would do great with those tires. Plus I can beat it a little harder

[frankensteinxj]

Originally Posted by tjrider

I'm with kennytj and trigger on this. I don't know if ill ever go bigger than 33s. I don't want to drive forever for hardcore trails. I think a HP 30 would do great with those tires. Plus I can beat it a little harder

I have one for sale .... built

[tjrider]

Originally Posted by frankensteinxj

I have one for sale .... built

Man I would love to have yours, but I don't have $600 right now. Wish I did

[KennyTJ]

Originally Posted by tjrider

I'm with kennytj and trigger on this. I don't know if ill ever go bigger than 33s. I don't want to drive forever for hardcore trails. I think a HP 30 would do great with those tires. Plus I can beat it a little harder

The 4.10s were great with 33" radial mud tires, I loved the gearing with them, just not tall enough for 35s.

With 33s the HP30 / 8.8 is a great combo and proven time and again in TJs. Just beef 'em up, replace everything, bearings, ball joints and u-joints, and you will be glad you did. With 33s Spicer parts should be fine.

Just hold off on that lunchbox locker till you can afford some alloy shafts!

Sounds like a solid plan, can wait to see the build thread!

[T-bird]

I don't like how low the ford 8.8 hangs down on 35's I could not imagine how bad it would be on 33's.

[KennyTJ]

Originally Posted by T-bird

I don't like how low the ford 8.8 hangs down on 35's I could not imagine how bad it would be on 33's.

It's no bigger than a D44, and you can trim a good 1/2 off the lip if you like. Never had an issue. The shock tabs hanging below the axle are the biggest issue with any stock TJ configuration, D35, D44, or 8.8.

just FYI

[tjrider]

Originally Posted by T-bird

I don't like how low the ford 8.8 hangs down on 35's I could not imagine how bad it would be on 33's.

I love my 8.8. I never have any issues dragging on stuff. I think a d60 hangs lower. I have tons of clearance

[itbrokeagain]

I had a 44 in my yj. 302 and 37 boggers and I was far from easy on it. Never a breakage. I put alloy shafts in just because I was worried about it but never had a problem. It is for sale with the matching 60 rear........

[frankensteinxj]

Originally Posted by itbrokeagain

I had a 44 in my yj. 302 and 37 boggers and I was far from easy on it. Never a breakage. I put alloy shafts in just because I was worried about it but never had a problem. It is for sale with the matching 60 rear........

Here is your answer.

Good price on that set of axles.