ford 44s

frankensteinxj · 06-08-2012, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjrider

after talking with you and two step. i think the HP 30 is my best choice right now.... I'm only looking to run 35's anyways. i don't want huge tires, it takes the challenge out of wheeling. Maybe sleeve it and some good shafts, I should be good

If you swap in the 30 you will always be worrying about breaking shafts or worse breaking the ring and pinion.
I wouldnt waste my time swapping one in personally, that is why I took mine out. once you lock it and put 35s on it those shafts are gonna hate life and you can expect to change at least one a trip.
Just a word from experience.

coachholland · 06-08-2012, 04:01 PM

I ran a locked HP D30 for two years with chromoly shafts initially with heavy 33 bias swampers and later 35" **** Cepek crushers. I geared to 4.10's because I didn't want R&P issues. I didn't run mild trails for what it was capable of. Widowmaker, Carb, Devil's Brew, Lower Staircase, etc at Slade. Lower, Middle, Killing Time, Pinball, Fish Fossil, Grapevine, Railbed, etc at Harlan. Plenty at Windrock. The setup worked quite well, didn't throw u-joints and not one breakage until for whatever reason I ended up with some play in my pinion which led to a chipped tooth on my ring gear. Granted I didn't run something like Lion's Den with a HP D30 on 35's, but that is not a 35" tire place to go anyway. Plus, I'm the type that will never see anything close to the rev limiter.

That said, I outgrew the D30...

tjrider · 06-08-2012, 04:16 PM

Is there an axle I can mate with the 8.8 @ the same width?

frankensteinxj · 06-08-2012, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjrider

Is there an axle I can mate with the 8.8 @ the same width?

I would say that a hp44 is your best bet just not the one with cast wedges.
I know you have a tj but read around on naxja.org a little. search and read and search and read.
Pirate4x4 is also full of helpful info for what you are looking to do just lurk and search search search.
If you end up having to run something wider in the front you may just need to throw some wheel spacers on the 8.8.

Or you could swap im some tons

tjrider · 06-08-2012, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankensteinxj

I would say that a hp44 is your best bet just not the one with cast wedges.
I know you have a tj but read around on naxja.org a little. search and read and search and read.
Pirate4x4 is also full of helpful info for what you are looking to do just lurk and search search search.
If you end up having to run something wider in the front you may just need to throw some wheel spacers on the 8.8.

Or you could swap im some tons

If I has the money I would put tons and 38s on it

frankensteinxj · 06-10-2012, 11:44 AM

If you go with the dana 30 I have one that has chromoly shafts and superjoints with a spartan locker I will sell for 600$
3:55 gears though, your 8.8 prolly has 4:11.

The shafts and joints alone are over 1000 new.

kentuckytwostep · 06-09-2012, 02:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankensteinxj

once you lock it and put 35s on it those shafts are gonna hate life and you can expect to change at least one a trip.

it all depends on the wheeling... I was changing axle joints (and sometimes factory shafts) on my 44 everytime I wheeled... which is why I'm running a 60 now

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjrider

Is there an axle I can mate with the 8.8 @ the same width?

not domestic (not sure about yota stuff)... and that includes a ford 44... they are WIDE compared to that 8.8.

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankensteinxj

Or you could swap im some tons

tjrider · 06-09-2012, 09:50 AM

That's why I'm thinking just go with a HP 30 for now. Its a little stronger than my LP 30. At least till I get the money for tons front and rear

Incommando · 06-10-2012, 10:14 AM

An often overlooked D60 front that can usually be bought cheaper is the kingpin Dodge from the mid 70's to the early 90's. Got mine from an '87 W250 for $300. Added a $125 FF C&C 14b. Swapping to a stronger pass drop t-case makes the axle work and also strenghtens the aluminum case/chain drive weakness of a 231. I don't blame sellers for getting say $2K for a CUCV axle set because people will pay it. But why are they paying that for a used axle set? Even adding Grizzly lockers I have $1300 in my 1tons with new lockers front and rear. Running the factory LSD'S or welding one or both diffes would have made this axle set down right cheap.

If you are going to have that HP D30 apart these inner axle tube sleeves are supposed to really be a great upgrade especially if you weld on some C-gussets: http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...tegory_Code=UP

WrenchMonkey · 06-08-2012, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankensteinxj

once you lock (a 30) and put 35s on it those shafts are gonna hate life and you can expect to change at least one a trip.
Just a word from experience.

Some guys do. I know Nick was killing one every time he turned around...

I've busted one in eight years, and that was a bit of mud-pit, rev-limiter foolishness...

Can't explain the difference, certainly ain't a matter of skill!

Robert

06-08-2012, 04:01 PM	#2
coachholland Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Winchester, KY Posts: 68	I ran a locked HP D30 for two years with chromoly shafts initially with heavy 33 bias swampers and later 35" **** Cepek crushers. I geared to 4.10's because I didn't want R&P issues. I didn't run mild trails for what it was capable of. Widowmaker, Carb, Devil's Brew, Lower Staircase, etc at Slade. Lower, Middle, Killing Time, Pinball, Fish Fossil, Grapevine, Railbed, etc at Harlan. Plenty at Windrock. The setup worked quite well, didn't throw u-joints and not one breakage until for whatever reason I ended up with some play in my pinion which led to a chipped tooth on my ring gear. Granted I didn't run something like Lion's Den with a HP D30 on 35's, but that is not a 35" tire place to go anyway. Plus, I'm the type that will never see anything close to the rev limiter. That said, I outgrew the D30... __________________ Just another three linked stretched '95 YJ on 38s with a bunch of stuff scattered on the garage floor.

06-08-2012, 04:16 PM	#3
tjrider Join Date: May 2009 Location: fairfield Posts: 320	Is there an axle I can mate with the 8.8 @ the same width? __________________ If you don't want it broke, don't let me drive it....

06-10-2012, 11:44 AM	#6
frankensteinxj Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Goshen Posts: 336	If you go with the dana 30 I have one that has chromoly shafts and superjoints with a spartan locker I will sell for 600$ 3:55 gears though, your 8.8 prolly has 4:11. The shafts and joints alone are over 1000 new. __________________ BYAAH!!!

06-09-2012, 09:50 AM	#8
tjrider Join Date: May 2009 Location: fairfield Posts: 320	That's why I'm thinking just go with a HP 30 for now. Its a little stronger than my LP 30. At least till I get the money for tons front and rear __________________ If you don't want it broke, don't let me drive it....

06-10-2012, 10:14 AM	#9
Incommando Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Kettering OH Posts: 61	An often overlooked D60 front that can usually be bought cheaper is the kingpin Dodge from the mid 70's to the early 90's. Got mine from an '87 W250 for $300. Added a $125 FF C&C 14b. Swapping to a stronger pass drop t-case makes the axle work and also strenghtens the aluminum case/chain drive weakness of a 231. I don't blame sellers for getting say $2K for a CUCV axle set because people will pay it. But why are they paying that for a used axle set? Even adding Grizzly lockers I have $1300 in my 1tons with new lockers front and rear. Running the factory LSD'S or welding one or both diffes would have made this axle set down right cheap. If you are going to have that HP D30 apart these inner axle tube sleeves are supposed to really be a great upgrade especially if you weld on some C-gussets: http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...tegory_Code=UP Last edited by Incommando; 06-10-2012 at 10:28 AM.