Suspension link questions

carwash · 03-17-2007, 11:09 PM

my links are turned down to 1 5/8. My JJ's are 2" wide. This gave me just enough area to do a weld around. There is no fear of this being too thin of a wall, as the MOI needed for non-failure at the mounting end is much less than is needed in the middle. The link end is only concerned with sheer, and honestly, 1.75x.120 would be enough there. (i would never use something that thin, but just saying it would hold up fine.)

I don't like the idea of crushing the end of the tube, as that would create kinks that would be a spots asking for failure. Turning them down is a controlled process while crushing seems like it may produce random results.

How about clearancing just two side of the tube instead of turning the whole thing down...? That would leave your .500 wall on two edges and at least 3/8 or so on your weld edge... If i had thought about it, this is what i would have done. Not sure why i didnt think of it.

JeffK5 · 03-18-2007, 10:42 AM

"How about clearancing just two side of the tube instead of turning the whole thing down...? That would leave your .500 wall on two edges and at least 3/8 or so on your weld edge... If i had thought about it, this is what i would have done. Not sure why i didnt think of it"

This is what I meant by "slab", great minds think alike..

I had planed on taper milling them so the flat faded to nothing as it went away from the weld joint , would look sweet and leave max. metal.

I was going to build some temp. tooling at work to smash the tube , I wasn't worried about inconsistency just weakening it.

Mike, I might like to buy a small piece (10"-12") of 2x.5 scrap off you and test this idea. We have a full metallurgical lab at my shop and I could get our tech to check and see what kind of damage is done by crushing it. I know it's overkill and don't mean shi+ to my build but I'm kinda' interisted in knowing what impact bending has on tube.

Jeff

fabricator · 03-18-2007, 11:24 AM

I been running 1.5 tube with .25 wall
for years now
But I too had 2" joint to weld to

carwash · 03-18-2007, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fabricator

I been running 1.5 tube with .25 wall
for years now
But I too had 2" joint to weld to

Yer not wheeling hard enough, or you rig is just too light. With that steel as lowers, i wouldnt make it through one trail run.

carwash · 03-18-2007, 11:42 AM

Jeff, I should have a small piece of scrap for ya. Let you know tomorrow. I can throw it in my truck for work tomorrow if you want to get it.

JeffK5 · 03-18-2007, 11:48 AM

Where can we hook-up?

fabricator · 03-18-2007, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carwash

Yer not wheeling hard enough, or you rig is just too light. With that steel as lowers, i wouldnt make it through one trail run.

And this comes from someone without something to wheel?
My pile reflects a rough life in case you didn't notice
Just last weekend I scratched a door

03-17-2007, 11:09 PM	#1
carwash pimpin' IS easy Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Union, KY Posts: 3,344 Images: 605	my links are turned down to 1 5/8. My JJ's are 2" wide. This gave me just enough area to do a weld around. There is no fear of this being too thin of a wall, as the MOI needed for non-failure at the mounting end is much less than is needed in the middle. The link end is only concerned with sheer, and honestly, 1.75x.120 would be enough there. (i would never use something that thin, but just saying it would hold up fine.) I don't like the idea of crushing the end of the tube, as that would create kinks that would be a spots asking for failure. Turning them down is a controlled process while crushing seems like it may produce random results. How about clearancing just two side of the tube instead of turning the whole thing down...? That would leave your .500 wall on two edges and at least 3/8 or so on your weld edge... If i had thought about it, this is what i would have done. Not sure why i didnt think of it. __________________

03-18-2007, 11:24 AM	#3
fabricator Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Cincy, Oh Posts: 947	I been running 1.5 tube with .25 wall for years now But I too had 2" joint to weld to __________________ For you guys who can't drive, I have owned a frame rack for several years. Prices are based on your skill and ability to wreck it....

03-18-2007, 11:42 AM	#5
carwash pimpin' IS easy Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Union, KY Posts: 3,344 Images: 605	Jeff, I should have a small piece of scrap for ya. Let you know tomorrow. I can throw it in my truck for work tomorrow if you want to get it. __________________

03-18-2007, 10:42 AM	#2
JeffK5 Tiny Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Colerain Posts: 798	"How about clearancing just two side of the tube instead of turning the whole thing down...? That would leave your .500 wall on two edges and at least 3/8 or so on your weld edge... If i had thought about it, this is what i would have done. Not sure why i didnt think of it" This is what I meant by "slab", great minds think alike.. I had planed on taper milling them so the flat faded to nothing as it went away from the weld joint , would look sweet and leave max. metal. I was going to build some temp. tooling at work to smash the tube , I wasn't worried about inconsistency just weakening it. Mike, I might like to buy a small piece (10"-12") of 2x.5 scrap off you and test this idea. We have a full metallurgical lab at my shop and I could get our tech to check and see what kind of damage is done by crushing it. I know it's overkill and don't mean shi+ to my build but I'm kinda' interisted in knowing what impact bending has on tube. Jeff

03-18-2007, 11:48 AM	#6
JeffK5 Tiny Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Colerain Posts: 798	Where can we hook-up?