Transmission Rebuild time

[blazerbrad]

Originally Posted by 93 Krawler

I do my own stuff, so I don't know any good shops. I rebuilt the 4l65e in my dd van and the 700r4 in my rig.

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I hate taking stuff to a shop...both for the price and I just hate not doing it myself. Just never been into an auto trans before.

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by blazerbrad

I hate taking stuff to a shop...both for the price and I just hate not doing it myself. Just never been into an auto trans before.

Same here. The first transmission I rebuilt was a 350. I bought a rebuild book and borrowed the tools from a friend. I was around 26 then, now 44. I have all the tools now. If you want to try it yourself, I will let you borrow the tools and give you some pointers. Patience and cleanliness is important. The 700 is the hardest one I've done, but easily doable is you take your time and lay everything out on a clean bench as it comes out of the case. There are a few seals that can suck, and one c clip in the bottom of the case that I always fight with. That's where the Patience comes in. If you want it built with a bunch extra stuff, then you might want to take it to a shop. That take skill from experienced builders. If you want it freshened up like new on the cheap, then do it yourself. The 700 in my rig is stock except I put a shift kit in for firm shifts. That's great in 2H, but in 4L it rips your neck off with 538 gears. I put the lightest shift feel in it too.

[blazerbrad]

I don't need any high zoot parts in it. Haven't researched much yet but figured some decent clutches and maybe a good sunshell? The biggest thing I was considering is a reverse manual valve body. Anybody have experience with them? I like the idea of being able to lock it into 2nd gear while in low range.

[humpy]

Originally Posted by blazerbrad

I don't need any high zoot parts in it. Haven't researched much yet but figured some decent clutches and maybe a good sunshell? The biggest thing I was considering is a reverse manual valve body. Anybody have experience with them? I like the idea of being able to lock it into 2nd gear while in low range.

U do know that a reverse valve body switches the shift pattern right?

Instead of. PRN321 it becomes PRN123

U can get a full manual valve body and retain stock pattern if u want


Main reason for reverse is so u can jam from 1st gear to reverse when hill climbing or when front if rig pops up

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by blazerbrad

I don't need any high zoot parts in it. Haven't researched much yet but figured some decent clutches and maybe a good sunshell? The biggest thing I was considering is a reverse manual valve body. Anybody have experience with them? I like the idea of being able to lock it into 2nd gear while in low range.

Upgrading the sun shell, clutches, 2-4 band, servos, sprags etc are a good idea. It all adds up quick.
If all you want to do is hold it in gear, then you should use a shift kit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tr...make/chevrolet

[JeffK5]

Originally Posted by blazerbrad

I don't need any high zoot parts in it. Haven't researched much yet but figured some decent clutches and maybe a good sunshell? The biggest thing I was considering is a reverse manual valve body. Anybody have experience with them? I like the idea of being able to lock it into 2nd gear while in low range.

I've owned two RMVB , one with compression braking and one without. The body with no braking is more suited to hauling ass (free wheels off the gas) but can be scary in the steep stuff.

[blazerbrad]

Yep, know it changes the shift pattern hence the "reverse " part of the name;) Wouldn't do a manual valvebody without it since this puts 1st and R close together. But I guess the question is what is the difference between the $300 RVMB and the $80 kit if it does basically the same thing? Just so people know where I'm coming from, the 700r4 will always take of in 1st gear unlike some other auto trans that will take off in 2nd if you place the gear selector in 2 (the 4L80E in my tow rig, wife's Odyssey, buddies C6, etc...). Once you do get it into 2nd gear (like climbing a slick hill) it will want to downshift back into 1st if you give it too much throttle.

[blazerbrad]

Talked to a friend who spent some time as a transmission tech and he thinks it might just be a sticky valvebody. Recommend changing the fluid and filter along with some additive to help clean it out. I don't believe in the "rebuild in a can" but sometimes additives or cleaners can fix problems.

Fluid was dirty but still was fairly red. Bottom of the pan had a thin layer of the blackish clutch material but what I would expect. Didn't get to test drive because it was getting late but just cycling between D and R it felt like it was engaging in reverse and would move backwards when you took your foot off the brake.

[93 Krawler]

Originally Posted by blazerbrad

Talked to a friend who spent some time as a transmission tech and he thinks it might just be a sticky valvebody. Recommend changing the fluid and filter along with some additive to help clean it out. I don't believe in the "rebuild in a can" but sometimes additives or cleaners can fix problems.

Fluid was dirty but still was fairly red. Bottom of the pan had a thin layer of the blackish clutch material but what I would expect. Didn't get to test drive because it was getting late but just cycling between D and R it felt like it was engaging in reverse and would move backwards when you took your foot off the brake.

Changing the fluid in the pan really isn't effective. You can do your own flush with the help of a friend. I do the filter change, add 7-8 quarts, take the trans return line off the radiator "Usually the top line" and put a fitting in the radiator. Attach a hose to the fitting and drop it in a bucket. While your friend is moving the trans in different gears, keep adding fluid so it doesn't run dry. I usually run 15 quarts through and stop. I have done this to a lot of cars and it works great. It gets rid of all the old fluid.