BlueOx build - Page 2

BillysGruff · 03-27-2013, 06:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGRAM

WOW, what happened? Looks awesome!

Were you asking me or the boss-man?

BIGRAM · 03-29-2013, 12:13 AM

That was for you, the truck went from street to hard C.O.R.E. in a flash!
Where is that majic dust at?

BIGRAM · 03-29-2013, 12:20 AM

Correction, it appears to be the wrong truck. Just noticed Krawler's sig pic..
Need updates,,,,

BillysGruff · 03-29-2013, 06:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGRAM

Correction, it appears to be the wrong truck. Just noticed Krawler's sig pic..
Need updates,,,,

All good, not many can touch the badassness of his rig.

BillysGruff · 03-29-2013, 07:35 AM

Are these worth it?

twiztedzuki · 03-29-2013, 09:01 AM

longfield has great rep. so i sure they are, and they cheaper then superjoints or nitros. they redid them also so only got 1 fitting instead 4 to grease.

93 Krawler · 03-29-2013, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGRAM

That was for you, the truck went from street to hard C.O.R.E. in a flash!
Where is that majic dust at?

I wish I would have had some magic dust. I started my rig in 2008 and finally got it the way I want it last summer. I couldn't get the front exo to look right around the stock fenders, so I left it off for a few years. Last summer I decided the only way to make it look right was to cut the front end off and tube it. Sure is easier to work on the engine now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillysGruff

Are these worth it?

I have stock Dana joints in mine and have yet to break one. If I were to break one, I would probably go to a better joint.

BillysGruff · 04-19-2013, 07:20 AM

Well, I met up with Scott and Rob, and they are some good dudes. The red Jeep is badass too. Scott said the caliper brackets are done! Cant wait to pick them up. Instead of opening the bore on the bracket, he decided it would be better to turn down the spindle such that it'll fit nice'n'snug into the caliper bracket. So

for those guys.

I do have a question though...
Is this the right PN for a Detroit? 225SL29A
I'm getting pretty close to finishing the bumper. After many grinding and checking attempts, I was finally able to get all the tubes to fit. They are currently just tack'd together. I need to add the inner 'webbing' pieces, so that'll be another 500x grind/check session. I'm sure using a hole saw+vise is easier, but this is the first time for me, so, so be it.

Also, parts are rollin' in, hooray for tax time. I'm waiting on Ruffstuff heims. Next to purchase is a master rebuild kit from a friend in C-bus, gears, and the Detroit. 4wd factory has an April sale going on now too. I could get that thing for cheap right now. Well cheap in the 'offroad' world.

BillysGruff · 04-21-2013, 07:25 PM

Bumper progress

BillysGruff · 04-24-2013, 08:59 AM

Still alotta work left on the bumper, grinding, flapping, strengthening, and on and on...

Here's what Scott and Rob did for me. I'm freakin stoked!

They fit great!

BillysGruff · 04-25-2013, 08:01 AM

I've read that the best way to remove the lower cap is to get it to rotate about the knuckle, and then punch it down.

Issuck, as the daughter would say. (It's stuck.)

93 Krawler · 04-25-2013, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillysGruff

I've read that the best way to remove the lower cap is to get it to rotate about the knuckle, and then punch it down.

Issuck, as the daughter would say. (It's stuck.)

I'm getting ready to change my knuckles. I'd say the lower caps have been on there for 34 years.

BillysGruff · 04-26-2013, 07:25 AM

I read that, did something break? Its crazy to think I'm working on something thats 2 years older than I.

93 Krawler · 04-26-2013, 05:28 PM

I developed a crack on the driver knuckle in Harlan. Time to upgrade.

Sent from my Radar 4G using Board Express

93 Krawler · 05-09-2013, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillysGruff

I've read that the best way to remove the lower cap is to get it to rotate about the knuckle, and then punch it down.

Since I was replacing all the lower pieces, I used a punch from the top and pushed it out. One side came out 3rd hit, the other side sucked bad. I used anti seize to make sure they come out next time.

BillysGruff · 05-09-2013, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 93 Krawler

Since I was replacing all the lower pieces, I used a punch from the top and pushed it out. One side came out 3rd hit, the other side sucked bad. I used anti seize to make sure they come out next time.

Good to know. I got mine out the day after I posted that pic. I had to hit it from the top, rotate it, and from the sides. The bearing race was easier to get out, IMO.

I'm moving along with suspension parts, and need to take some pics.

BillysGruff · 05-14-2013, 07:02 AM

Suspension bracketry coming along, only have holes drilled on one side of four from where the shackle will hang. Bits dulled on me.

ARP studs that I thought I was supposed to get as a packaged deal from a guy on PBB for the HSA's, but ah well. Also got a Detroit from a good dude here in town. He said the bearings are fairly new, they look good to me so I'm going to run 'em. My guess it that he's a member on here, but I didnt ask for some reason. Said he has a tube buggy and a '79 HPD60 that he switched out for a spool. For $300, its a win for me! I Also have G2 4.88 gears coming, and a good friend in C-bus has a master install kit for me.

Also, really good bumper progress. I got all the ends capped, fixed the d-side stickingouttoofar issue, and created two gussets on either side (if you will). Next for this is to make the roller fair lead plate and weld that on, then 60 grit flap wheel and paint.

BillysGruff · 05-14-2013, 07:15 AM

...

BillysGruff · 05-31-2013, 11:33 AM

Just a small update...

I gave myself 2" of overhang with the front x-member and the frame rails. I'm going to weld some vertical pieces such that they sit flush against outside of the frame rails and on the top of the x-member. I'll then drill holes through these plates and rosette weld them on, plus gusset between the x-member and new plate. And I need to get longer hanger and shackles bolts.

BillysGruff · 06-29-2013, 06:38 PM

Got the gears going. Check out these patterns and stats and let me know what you guys think. These are 4.88's.

RGS: .056
NRGS: .043
BL: .004, I'll loosen them up a bit, but how much shim should I take out of RGS and add to NRGS?
OP: .046 w/~20in/lbs
IP: .007 over existing; .015" over existing yields the drive side pattern towards the toe, centered root to flank, and coast side as a centered half moon, meaning it was too much shim. I'll try .012" over next time.

Coast:

Drive:

Drive, the last one appears almost rhombus like in shape:

BillysGruff · 08-10-2013, 05:06 PM

I think BL is better now. It was in b/t .006 and .007 every place I took a reading. I used BillaVista's method that for every .010" carrier shim change there is .007" BL change, so I settled on .005" shim movement to the NRGS to try get me .0035" more BL.

Drive side, how do I get rid of the rhombus shape?

Coast side:

BillysGruff · 08-26-2013, 04:34 PM

Relief cut in the shoulder, as you all can see they are badly pitted.

New bearings pressed on to carrier and pinion

Finally got the housing damn near completely clean

First successful drill and tap, that bit that comes with the set is so much sharper than anything I've ever seen

Uuuuuuppppdate time

Old kingpins have been removed, slapped down some 250* paint after cleaning

Moose knuckle

Carnage for Kyle

93 Krawler · 08-26-2013, 07:33 PM

Looks good.

Hope you have better luck than I did with those conical bolts for the caliper. Mine kept letting the parts fall out. I ended up using a regular bolt instead and tacking a small washer to the bracket. Havn't lost any parts since then.

BillysGruff · 08-27-2013, 05:54 AM

Thanks man. It's getting there. I've read that about those bolts. One guy suggested using allen head bolts so they dont stick out as far and its hard to overtorque them. Next I need to get the housing secured down somehow, make up an extension, and torque down the kingpins.

BillysGruff · 12-19-2013, 07:10 AM

A small update, actually been working like crazy on this thing. BTF diff cover welded, spring clamps made, made new shackles, modified the hangers for better clearance, hubs all assembled, springs painted/removed overload, brakes installed..

Then this happened...I think I welded it too hot and warped the bung

Also working on some double shear steering

03-29-2013, 12:13 AM	#27
BIGRAM Ready to Wheel!!!!!!! Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Stanton, KY Posts: 263	That was for you, the truck went from street to hard C.O.R.E. in a flash! Where is that majic dust at? __________________ 1994 Dodge Ram 5.9L SWB 3/4 axles, 39.5 IROKS, HYDRO assist

03-29-2013, 12:20 AM	#28
BIGRAM Ready to Wheel!!!!!!! Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Stanton, KY Posts: 263	Correction, it appears to be the wrong truck. Just noticed Krawler's sig pic.. Need updates,,,, __________________ 1994 Dodge Ram 5.9L SWB 3/4 axles, 39.5 IROKS, HYDRO assist

03-29-2013, 09:01 AM	#31
twiztedzuki Join Date: May 2008 Location: Waverly ohio Posts: 586	longfield has great rep. so i sure they are, and they cheaper then superjoints or nitros. they redid them also so only got 1 fitting instead 4 to grease. __________________ SMITH BUILT PERIOD

04-19-2013, 07:20 AM	#33
BillysGruff Goats on the Roof! Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 62	Well, I met up with Scott and Rob, and they are some good dudes. The red Jeep is badass too. Scott said the caliper brackets are done! Cant wait to pick them up. Instead of opening the bore on the bracket, he decided it would be better to turn down the spindle such that it'll fit nice'n'snug into the caliper bracket. So for those guys. I do have a question though... Is this the right PN for a Detroit? 225SL29A I'm getting pretty close to finishing the bumper. After many grinding and checking attempts, I was finally able to get all the tubes to fit. They are currently just tack'd together. I need to add the inner 'webbing' pieces, so that'll be another 500x grind/check session. I'm sure using a hole saw+vise is easier, but this is the first time for me, so, so be it. Also, parts are rollin' in, hooray for tax time. I'm waiting on Ruffstuff heims. Next to purchase is a master rebuild kit from a friend in C-bus, gears, and the Detroit. 4wd factory has an April sale going on now too. I could get that thing for cheap right now. Well cheap in the 'offroad' world. Last edited by BillysGruff; 04-19-2013 at 09:07 AM.

05-14-2013, 07:02 AM	#42
BillysGruff Goats on the Roof! Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 62	Suspension bracketry coming along, only have holes drilled on one side of four from where the shackle will hang. Bits dulled on me. ARP studs that I thought I was supposed to get as a packaged deal from a guy on PBB for the HSA's, but ah well. Also got a Detroit from a good dude here in town. He said the bearings are fairly new, they look good to me so I'm going to run 'em. My guess it that he's a member on here, but I didnt ask for some reason. Said he has a tube buggy and a '79 HPD60 that he switched out for a spool. For $300, its a win for me! I Also have G2 4.88 gears coming, and a good friend in C-bus has a master install kit for me. Also, really good bumper progress. I got all the ends capped, fixed the d-side stickingouttoofar issue, and created two gussets on either side (if you will). Next for this is to make the roller fair lead plate and weld that on, then 60 grit flap wheel and paint. Last edited by BillysGruff; 05-14-2013 at 07:35 AM.

03-29-2013, 07:35 AM	#30
BillysGruff Goats on the Roof! Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 62	Are these worth it?

04-21-2013, 07:25 PM	#34
BillysGruff Goats on the Roof! Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 62	Bumper progress

04-24-2013, 08:59 AM	#35
BillysGruff Goats on the Roof! Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 62	Still alotta work left on the bumper, grinding, flapping, strengthening, and on and on... Here's what Scott and Rob did for me. I'm freakin stoked! They fit great!

04-25-2013, 08:01 AM	#36
BillysGruff Goats on the Roof! Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 62	I've read that the best way to remove the lower cap is to get it to rotate about the knuckle, and then punch it down. Issuck, as the daughter would say. (It's stuck.)

04-26-2013, 07:25 AM	#38
BillysGruff Goats on the Roof! Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 62	I read that, did something break? Its crazy to think I'm working on something thats 2 years older than I.

04-26-2013, 05:28 PM	#39
93 Krawler >>>PMC<<< - CORE Member - - Administrator - Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Ross, OH Posts: 2,069 Images: 1268	I developed a crack on the driver knuckle in Harlan. Time to upgrade. Sent from my Radar 4G using Board Express

05-14-2013, 07:15 AM	#43
BillysGruff Goats on the Roof! Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 62	... Last edited by BillysGruff; 08-09-2013 at 06:02 PM.

05-31-2013, 11:33 AM	#44
BillysGruff Goats on the Roof! Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 62	Just a small update... I gave myself 2" of overhang with the front x-member and the frame rails. I'm going to weld some vertical pieces such that they sit flush against outside of the frame rails and on the top of the x-member. I'll then drill holes through these plates and rosette weld them on, plus gusset between the x-member and new plate. And I need to get longer hanger and shackles bolts.

06-29-2013, 06:38 PM	#45
BillysGruff Goats on the Roof! Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 62	Got the gears going. Check out these patterns and stats and let me know what you guys think. These are 4.88's. RGS: .056 NRGS: .043 BL: .004, I'll loosen them up a bit, but how much shim should I take out of RGS and add to NRGS? OP: .046 w/~20in/lbs IP: .007 over existing; .015" over existing yields the drive side pattern towards the toe, centered root to flank, and coast side as a centered half moon, meaning it was too much shim. I'll try .012" over next time. Coast: Drive: Drive, the last one appears almost rhombus like in shape: Last edited by BillysGruff; 08-09-2013 at 05:59 PM.

08-10-2013, 05:06 PM	#46
BillysGruff Goats on the Roof! Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 62	I think BL is better now. It was in b/t .006 and .007 every place I took a reading. I used BillaVista's method that for every .010" carrier shim change there is .007" BL change, so I settled on .005" shim movement to the NRGS to try get me .0035" more BL. Drive side, how do I get rid of the rhombus shape? Coast side:

08-26-2013, 04:34 PM	#47
BillysGruff Goats on the Roof! Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 62	Relief cut in the shoulder, as you all can see they are badly pitted. New bearings pressed on to carrier and pinion Finally got the housing damn near completely clean First successful drill and tap, that bit that comes with the set is so much sharper than anything I've ever seen Uuuuuuppppdate time Old kingpins have been removed, slapped down some 250* paint after cleaning Moose knuckle Carnage for Kyle

08-26-2013, 07:33 PM	#48
93 Krawler >>>PMC<<< - CORE Member - - Administrator - Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Ross, OH Posts: 2,069 Images: 1268	Looks good. Hope you have better luck than I did with those conical bolts for the caliper. Mine kept letting the parts fall out. I ended up using a regular bolt instead and tacking a small washer to the bracket. Havn't lost any parts since then.

08-27-2013, 05:54 AM	#49
BillysGruff Goats on the Roof! Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 62	Thanks man. It's getting there. I've read that about those bolts. One guy suggested using allen head bolts so they dont stick out as far and its hard to overtorque them. Next I need to get the housing secured down somehow, make up an extension, and torque down the kingpins.

12-19-2013, 07:10 AM	#50
BillysGruff Goats on the Roof! Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 62	A small update, actually been working like crazy on this thing. BTF diff cover welded, spring clamps made, made new shackles, modified the hangers for better clearance, hubs all assembled, springs painted/removed overload, brakes installed.. Then this happened...I think I welded it too hot and warped the bung Also working on some double shear steering