Radiator rear install

[jeepmanjeff]

Moved my radiator to the back using 1.75 exhaust pipe. Took a few days and lots of bending but it turned out really well! You cannot even hear the fan running and the heat difference is amazing!




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[bbtank45]

Originally Posted by Waffle

Just sharing what I've learned.

I'd add a flipped inline upper hose drain valve ahead of the thermostat so you can bleed the trapped air there. Even if there isn't air there now, there will be.

Now that you've increased the volume this much, you (may) need a larger recirculation tank to account for the additional thermal expansion. If your running a vented 2 seal cap that is. (Not talking about the red lever btw). Chances are you need at least a 2-3qt tank.

Only time will tell, but rear radiator is less efficient and might reveal a need for more fan, more or better rad, front ducting/shroud. Windrock mountain climb in July afternoon outa expose any issues real quick, lol. Even a little ducting or shroud work on the front side to trap the air around the fuel tank could make a big difference when moving. Hopefully ya don't need it though.

With rear rad you create a heat soak and rejection delay due to the increased volume, distance between rad and engine. Just something to keep in mind when timing efan temp switches with gauge readings and when stopping to cool after a big climb or beatdown. Ya might (idk yet) need to run a cooler T-stat and fan switch to take advantage of the cool side delay.

1.5" tube would help increase fluid velocity, increase radiator efficiency (laminar flow is bad), reduce delay and make packaging easier/cheaper. Just food for future thought since you already finished.

Over time, replace all that hose with tube or stainless flex hose. Nothing like a 200 degree bath or split hose to ruin your day.

Don't run propylene glycol antifreeze. Use ethylene glycol. Don't run 50/50 mix. Instead run something closer to 70/30 (70% water).

Keep in mind that all of your natural airflow pressure for cooling when moving or coasting downhill is now gone. It's all up to the fan and rad now.

I think you run a positive displacement water pump whereas I run an LS centrifugal so you might not have to care about the effects of pressure vs flow. But, yur lookin at an LS swap so ya will some day.

When running, check the volts at the battery then at the fan. Depending on voltage drop amount ya might need to up the wire gauge. Even a little voltage gained back could mean several hundred cfm gained back as well. Fairly certain Flexalite states their cfm claims at a full 13.5 volts btw.

Been running my rear radiator for a few years now, id highly recommend a bleeder up by the thermostat (highest point up by the engine).

I would also run a bead of weld around the end of the tubing where the hose meets....will help reduce the chance of the hose from sliding off the tube once the coolant is warm. I used t bolt clamps to provide additional clamping surface area.....generally constructed heavier than a typical hose clamp.

[jeepmanjeff]

I am literally 15” from the battery and have ran 12 gauge wire from everything. So I should be good there. Good ideas on the air in the system. I did use a new
Uview 55000 airlift Vacuum system to bleed all the air out. It literally pulls 25 lbs of vacuum and the sucks the fluid thru filling the system to capacity. I used 5+ gallons.

I talked to Gary From RED dot in Moab and the radiator they run are the same capacity I have now. So I have to think doing all this will definitely help on my heat issues

Now my only worries is travel for my driver upper link. It will eventually hit the tube I ran. I am hoping it modifies itself with out issue. I did try and flex it tonight but I don’t have a high enough point. BONUS!

I also installed 304 stainless, for the firewall, 1” ceramic matting and the Kevlar I had made as well to block the temps

Also today with the radiator move I had to come up with a new configuration for the storage area and tools. So here are pics for those as well

Building a new rig is rewarding, challenging and frustrating all at the same time!





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[93 Krawler]

You'll know how the cooling works pulling the hill to the trails at windrock. It will test it for sure.

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[93 Krawler]

How well did the 1.75 exhaust pipe work in the Bender?

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[jeepmanjeff]

Really good


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[93 Krawler]

Good to know for when I do mine. Also thinking about using 2 1/8 OD for my exhaust since I have a die that size.